Zak Smith
Member
Here's a real quick comparison of the new 5-25 S&B vs. a similar USO SN3.
[ link to LARGER image ]
DISCLAIMER: This is not a complete review, nor a full comparison. I've only had the S&B for a few days, and only shot about 20 rounds through it.
Scopes:
Scope 1. USO 3.8-22x44mm SN3. ERGO. Metric EREK. mil-scale reticle. Capped metric windage knob. 35mm tube. Illuminated. Mount is a AI single-piece 28 MOA 34mm machined to match the 35mm tube.
[ link to LARGER image ]
Scope 2. S&B 5-25x56mm PMII. Two-turn. Metric. P4 reticle. Mount is an AI single-piece mount machined lower in the middle for the adjustment turrets of the scope.
[ link to LARGER image ]
TEST CONDITIONS: Rifle used for testing was my AI 338. (The 308 was used for photographs later, as well.) Shooting 10" square steel plates from 350 to 960 yards during daylight. The optical comparison was done out my back window, over the lake, looking at objects approx 500 yards away, during late afternoon sunlight.
I had been shooting the USO 22x out to 965 yards. I mounted the S&B on the rifle, took two shots at dirt clods at about 150 yards to get close, shot one at the 345 yard plate, and the fourth shot through the scope was a hit on the 10" plate @ 345. I "zeroed" the knob with my 345 yard computed dope, and progressively made hits out to 965 (not all first-round at 800 and 900, though).
I did all comparisons on the same power setting.
* There was no obvious winner in clarity. There may be a difference. Another shooter and I were not able to conclusively decide what it was.
* The S&B was noticably brighter
* The S&B had a larger exit pupil, so it was easier to get a sight picture through
* The S&B was easier to adjust focus, but the USO seemed to "need" it less. The ERGO is kind of a pain to adjust, but in competition, I often just leave it.
[ link to LARGER image ]
[ link to LARGER image ]
* The S&B reticle was fully opaque (black), while the USO "mil-scale" reticle was semi-transparent
* Of these two reticles, I prefer the mil-scale in the USO because it has a 1/2 mil mark off the center crosshairs for holding wind.
* The S&B knobs require more force to adjust, move a smaller circumferential distance per click (very small), and are harder to read than the USO EREK. I prefer the USO EREK for usability (once zeroed -- see zero comments below).
[ link to LARGER image ]
[ link to LARGER image ]
* The S&B has more elevation available. About 21 in the USO vs. about 26 in the S&B. This is a moot issue for all but 50BMG at distances beyond 2200 yards.
* The S&B had more managable eye relief.
* The illumination control on the S&B blocks the view of the parallax/focus adjust knob.
* There is no provision for a "capped" windage knob on the S&B.
* The "Two Turn" elevation knob on the S&B is much easier to adjust and set zero on compared to the EREK.
The EREK has the center adjustment screw which is a pain to adjust (and it sets the "bottom" of the zero-stop on the EREK), and the EREK requires the two top screws to be tightened in a direction of knob travel which often clicks off by one while tightening. The S&B has two set screws Leupold/NF style. Its zero stop mechanism is set by the physical bottom of the cap, so it's easy to set.
[ link to LARGER image ]
External / feature comparison pics here
http://apollo.demigod.org/~zak/DigiCam/USOSB/
In short, both are EXCELLENT scopes. Both track perfectly so far (ie, expected dope on each scope), but my testing has not been extensive or lengthy. I would not feel at a disadvantage with either of them.
The S&B costs about $300-400 more than the USO, or $700-800 more if you get a "group buy" price on the USO.
List of things I still have to test:
* dusk, low-light, no-light, & illuminated targets
* illuminated reticles in the dark on targets
* illuminator "target indicator" from muzzle side
* high round count.. literally only have like 20 through the S&B right now
If I were to change the S&B, I would:
1. Add threads for a windage knob cap, so I can zero it, cap it, and forget about it forever, and use the reticle for wind holdoff.
2. Get more reticle options ASAP! Horus, Gen 2, GAP, etc.
3. Move or change the illumination control so the shooter can see the current setting on the parallax/focus knob.
4. Change the elevation knob to be shorter, and wider to increase circumferential click "distance" and make it easier to read. The 2nd-turn indicator is cool.
5. Make it possible to "zero stop" right AT zero, not several clicks below.
If I were to change the USO, I would:
1. Change the EREK knob to be as easy to set "zero stop" point and "zero" as it is on the S&B.
2. Make it shorter and lighter.
3. Make 34mm a factory tube option.
4. Make the windage and illuminator control knobs, and their caps, lower profile.
I don't hold the brightness and exit pupil difference against the USO, since it's running a 12mm SMALLER objective lens.
Basic optical physics cannot be cheated.
On the other hand, the objective bell O.D. of the USO is almost the same as the objective bell O.D. of the S&B, because the old-style ERGO has some overhead. In other words, their external dimensions are similar.
A low-pro ERGO or plain (TPAL) might be a better comparison in this regard.
Hope this helps...
[ link to LARGER image ]
DISCLAIMER: This is not a complete review, nor a full comparison. I've only had the S&B for a few days, and only shot about 20 rounds through it.
Scopes:
Scope 1. USO 3.8-22x44mm SN3. ERGO. Metric EREK. mil-scale reticle. Capped metric windage knob. 35mm tube. Illuminated. Mount is a AI single-piece 28 MOA 34mm machined to match the 35mm tube.
[ link to LARGER image ]
Scope 2. S&B 5-25x56mm PMII. Two-turn. Metric. P4 reticle. Mount is an AI single-piece mount machined lower in the middle for the adjustment turrets of the scope.
[ link to LARGER image ]
TEST CONDITIONS: Rifle used for testing was my AI 338. (The 308 was used for photographs later, as well.) Shooting 10" square steel plates from 350 to 960 yards during daylight. The optical comparison was done out my back window, over the lake, looking at objects approx 500 yards away, during late afternoon sunlight.
I had been shooting the USO 22x out to 965 yards. I mounted the S&B on the rifle, took two shots at dirt clods at about 150 yards to get close, shot one at the 345 yard plate, and the fourth shot through the scope was a hit on the 10" plate @ 345. I "zeroed" the knob with my 345 yard computed dope, and progressively made hits out to 965 (not all first-round at 800 and 900, though).
I did all comparisons on the same power setting.
* There was no obvious winner in clarity. There may be a difference. Another shooter and I were not able to conclusively decide what it was.
* The S&B was noticably brighter
* The S&B had a larger exit pupil, so it was easier to get a sight picture through
* The S&B was easier to adjust focus, but the USO seemed to "need" it less. The ERGO is kind of a pain to adjust, but in competition, I often just leave it.
[ link to LARGER image ]
[ link to LARGER image ]
* The S&B reticle was fully opaque (black), while the USO "mil-scale" reticle was semi-transparent
* Of these two reticles, I prefer the mil-scale in the USO because it has a 1/2 mil mark off the center crosshairs for holding wind.
* The S&B knobs require more force to adjust, move a smaller circumferential distance per click (very small), and are harder to read than the USO EREK. I prefer the USO EREK for usability (once zeroed -- see zero comments below).
[ link to LARGER image ]
[ link to LARGER image ]
* The S&B has more elevation available. About 21 in the USO vs. about 26 in the S&B. This is a moot issue for all but 50BMG at distances beyond 2200 yards.
* The S&B had more managable eye relief.
* The illumination control on the S&B blocks the view of the parallax/focus adjust knob.
* There is no provision for a "capped" windage knob on the S&B.
* The "Two Turn" elevation knob on the S&B is much easier to adjust and set zero on compared to the EREK.
The EREK has the center adjustment screw which is a pain to adjust (and it sets the "bottom" of the zero-stop on the EREK), and the EREK requires the two top screws to be tightened in a direction of knob travel which often clicks off by one while tightening. The S&B has two set screws Leupold/NF style. Its zero stop mechanism is set by the physical bottom of the cap, so it's easy to set.
[ link to LARGER image ]
External / feature comparison pics here
http://apollo.demigod.org/~zak/DigiCam/USOSB/
In short, both are EXCELLENT scopes. Both track perfectly so far (ie, expected dope on each scope), but my testing has not been extensive or lengthy. I would not feel at a disadvantage with either of them.
The S&B costs about $300-400 more than the USO, or $700-800 more if you get a "group buy" price on the USO.
List of things I still have to test:
* dusk, low-light, no-light, & illuminated targets
* illuminated reticles in the dark on targets
* illuminator "target indicator" from muzzle side
* high round count.. literally only have like 20 through the S&B right now
If I were to change the S&B, I would:
1. Add threads for a windage knob cap, so I can zero it, cap it, and forget about it forever, and use the reticle for wind holdoff.
2. Get more reticle options ASAP! Horus, Gen 2, GAP, etc.
3. Move or change the illumination control so the shooter can see the current setting on the parallax/focus knob.
4. Change the elevation knob to be shorter, and wider to increase circumferential click "distance" and make it easier to read. The 2nd-turn indicator is cool.
5. Make it possible to "zero stop" right AT zero, not several clicks below.
If I were to change the USO, I would:
1. Change the EREK knob to be as easy to set "zero stop" point and "zero" as it is on the S&B.
2. Make it shorter and lighter.
3. Make 34mm a factory tube option.
4. Make the windage and illuminator control knobs, and their caps, lower profile.
I don't hold the brightness and exit pupil difference against the USO, since it's running a 12mm SMALLER objective lens.
Basic optical physics cannot be cheated.
On the other hand, the objective bell O.D. of the USO is almost the same as the objective bell O.D. of the S&B, because the old-style ERGO has some overhead. In other words, their external dimensions are similar.
A low-pro ERGO or plain (TPAL) might be a better comparison in this regard.
Hope this helps...