stuck casings - S&W 638

Korbin · Dec 13, 2008

So I was at the range and I shot 100 rounds of Blazer Brass .38 special from my Smith and Wesson 638 airweight (it has a stainless steel cylinder). Did fine. The brass would fall out in my hand when I pushed it out.

The last few minutes I shot 5 rounds of CCI (I think that's the brand) .38+p with aluminum casings. I went to push the casings out and they all moved about 1/8" and got stuck. I tried and tried and finally, while applying ALOT of force, I pushed them out of the cylinder.

I thought revolvers ate any kind of ammo. Granted, they shot fine. But I didn't pay for a gun that imitates a brick after every 5 shots.

I'm a little dismayed and wonder if anyone has had things like that happen. It probably had to do with gunk in the chambers, but like I said, I shot regular .38's all day with no trouble. And the +P rounds are the ones I was keeping for self defense. I clean the gun after every trip to the range and I oil every moving part I see...

This is on top of my dad finding out his brand new 642 airweight just plain doesn't work. Cylinder doesn't turn every time you pull the trigger. :cuss:

/end rant

fastbolt · Dec 13, 2008

... .38+p with aluminum casings

If you were using the aluminum-cased line of Blazer ammunition it's not unheard of to hear reports of the aluminum cases swelling more than brass cases.

Also, +P pressure may result in more case swelling.

Nickeled brass cases often tend to extract easier than standard brass cases, too, and brass cases may often extract more easily than aluminum cases.

Charge hole fouling can also be a potential factor, as you noted.

As far as the new 642 'cylinder not turning when the trigger is pulled'? Tell him to call S&W and ask to speak to a repair technician. Their customer service will take care of shipping and repair of his revolver.

Korbin · Dec 13, 2008

Now that you mention that, I think it was the Blazer brand.

I would be interest to hear if people have had this issue and what gun they were using.

Thanks for the input.

fastbolt · Dec 13, 2008

I remember when the aluminum cased Blazer was new on the market. The coating they used on the casings resulted in some really sticky extractions, especially in some pistol chambers. They reportedly changed their production methods to enhance extraction. That was years ago.

I seldom use Blazer aluminum cased ammunition anymore, although I've come across the odd box of it once in a while. I think I still have some boxes of some .44 Spl Blazer tucked away somewhere in my ammunition supply.

When you buy bargain-priced practice ammunition you may sometimes have to realize that the manufacturer has been able to offer it at a lower price because of lower cost components. Sometimes the lower cost components may not provide the all of the advantages desired by the occasional purchaser/user.

Just my thoughts.

I'd have your dad call S&W to have his 642 examined and repaired. The factory will be closing down for its 2 week holiday break starting Dec 22nd, I believe.

Jenrick · Dec 13, 2008

Everyone here has pretty much hit the nail on the head, aluminum cases tend to stick more then brass, which is more then nickeled brass. Run a cylinder or two through your revolver when it's freshly cleaned and see if they stick. Also when ejecting the casings SMARTLY activate the ejector rod and see if they pop out rather then sticking. Blazer makes decent plinking ammo, but I'd probably get something different for SD/HD purposes. YMMV

-Jenrick

Korbin · Dec 13, 2008

Cool, thanks everybody.

to elaborate - my dad already sent his gun in to S&W and got it back. They replaced a hammer spring(?) and some other part I can't remember the name. Still, it doesn't instill a lot of confidence.

I did get the aluminum-cased ammo for a bargain. Some lessons I never learn

stuck casings - S&W 638

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