S&W Airweight Grip Options

Making the J-Frame .38 Snub Work

try to send the link but couldn't get it right put above in you serch space and you should be able to fine this artical all you can type in "the snub nose file" very good information about grips. wish i could of gave you the right link but just not that good with computers. but should'nt be hard to fine.

be safe

Look for a grip that covers the backstap. Two good options are Uncle Mike's Combat grips and Crimson trace Laser grips. Crimson Trace are more bucks but you have the laser.The combat grips are cheaper but they also soak up the recoil. They both work with speed loaders. I have both and use them with my J frames.

I found the stock uncle mikes boot grips work best for me. As far as pocket carry, that is. It's still not comfy to shoot a lot.

If you're carrying IWB or something definitely get the kind that covers the backstrap.

I think that grips don't matter so much if you can get past the idea that you need to use powerful ammo to have an effective weapon in a .38 Special snubbie. I use 148 grain full wadcutters over 3 grains of bullseye and know that my ammo is capable while the pistol remains reasonable comfortable to fire for however many shots.

try dropping the stock 442 in your pocket in a cheap desantis nemesis holster... if you can handle the extra bulk, make it your primary gun and carry the seecamp in your offhand pocket or ankle.

Or try IWB and see if you like it. I really like pocket carry for my purposes... no hassle, always have a gun.

I must say that since I started carrying the Ruger LCP, the J-frame hasn't got much love.

The LCP is a nice, flat little package. Plus I carry a spare mag in my offhand pocket.

You might just fall further in love with your seecamp.

I've been using regular non +P loads in my 642. I tried the Speer Gold Dot 135g +P for short barrels (actual 1 7/8" barrel - just like the 442/642) and I found them to not seem any more powerful than the non +P loads. I have yet to shoot it through my chronograph as it has been just too cold outside to do any serious shooting and setting up necessary equipment to do so.

I tried wooden grips from S&W because I thought the rubber grips would snag in my pant pocket, but the Uncle Mikes #59010 OEM rubber grip is just fine. I use the Robert Mika pocket holster and the gun is quick to draw. I tried the #3 Uncle Mikes SideKick Pocket Holster and every time I pulled the gun from my pocket, the holster stayed stuck to the gun. That will not happen with Robert Mika's holsters, for sure.

I have the #36 HKS speedloaders which work just fine with both the wood panel grips and with the OEM Uncle Mikes rubber grips. The rubber grip gives me a bit better hold as it is a bit wider (front-to-back) but is not quite as long as the wooden panels. The wooden panels cover the bottom strap of the grip handle whereas the Uncle Mikes 59010 OEM grip leaves that bottom strap exposed (you can see the serial number on the bottom with the Uncle Mikes grip, but not with the wood grip panels). In what little shooting I have been doing out in my barn, I found that the OEM rubber grips are a bit more comfortable than the wood panels. The wood panels did hurt just a bit, however I am used to shooting a 500 Magnum - 4" barrel.

In my opinion, the Uncle Mikes OEM (59010) grips are the ones to use and keep. If you want the Crimson Trace laser grips, then that is another story altogether, however the thought of relying on something battery-powered doesn't turn me on.

I did try the Tyler T-Grip adapter along with my wooden panel grips, but they did not fit and I had to send the T-Grip Adapter back. The problem was that the S&W wood panels were not exactly flush along the front of the gun grip frame (Tyler DOES SPECIFY THIS on their website -- that the existing grip has to be flush in the front where the T-Grip will meet the existing grip panels - in other words, no metal grip frame showing along the edges but instead, the panel coming right out and meeting the very edge of metal frame all along). When I installed the T-Grip Adapter, there were unsightly spaces where the wood panels should have met the adapter. Tyler was very good at taking it right back and giving me full credit (less shipping if I remember correctly), anyway I was satisfied enough with them that I would definately consider the Tyler T-Grip and their other products again as they were extremely friendly, helpful & courteous!

Hello.

If interested, here are some links that might be of service:

http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/Making J Frame Work.htm

http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/Getting a Grip on J Frames.htm

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=383634

Best.

I have the Uncle Mike's "rubbers," but have wonderful result with original factory stocks on my M37 . . . ALONG with the Tyler T-grip.

Frankly, I haven't but a rubber on this gun for a long, long time. The Tylers, combined with a firm and proper high grip, make the M37 a real pussycat to shoot, IMHO.



I think most people who have problems with 'em grip low and loose.

T.

Contrary to previous "advice," you can get more control if your grips do NOT cover the backstrap of your hammerless 442.

You can get higher on the grip frame if the backstrap is open. The BEST grips are the pricey Spegel Boot grips made specifically for the Centennial style frame. They go "all the way up," providing more surface to dissipate recoil forces, yet remain small enough to conceal well.

http://www.novaksights.com/images/grips/s&w j/spJ4.jpg

Contrary to previous "advice," you can get more control if your grips do NOT cover the backstrap of your hammerless 442.

Click to expand...

Oh please God...Not again...


rd

Hello, sir. Good luck and hopefully you'll find what is right for you.

Best to you and yours.

Hello. I believe that Novaks sells them:

http://www.novaksights.com/Grips/craig_spegel.htm

Found some here:

http://www.lightningarms.com/spegel.htm

or Mr. Spegel's own site:

http://www.craigspegel.com/

Best and good luck.

i have a buddy that works for lyman's and had him snag me a set of pachmayr compac's for my 642. They're a little bulkier for carry, but still not noticeable in your pocket. The gun is much easier to shoot and drastically reduced recoil. I first read about them in a gun mag too im trying to find the article....

Hogue bantum weight or Spiegal boot grips...

I'd get the Hogue bantum weight grips or if you want wood, the Craig Speigal boot grips. Boot grips are highly rated for J-frame S&W. I prefer the rubber models.
The Crimisontrace lasergrips would be a great add on if the J frame is for BUG, CCW or home protection. www.crimsontrace.com

Rusty

Here's another vote for the Pachmayr Compacs. They are great grips and it is like shooting an entirely different gun.

Another vote for the Hogue Bantam grips. I also liked the Uncle Mike's boot grips but the checkering on them bothered me when carrying in an ankle holster.

http://www.snubnose.info/docs/grips.htm

Good article about Airweight grips.