Brought back a souvenir from the CMP, question/issue

I'm no Garand expert, but on mine, after I insert the clip I have to smack the op rod to strip off a round and chamber it. The bolt doesn't go forward on my M1 by itself when I load it, I have to hit the cocking handle with the heel of my hand. I just thought that's the way they were.

Is this normal, or do I have a problem?

This is normal.

I don't have a Garand, but hope to get one some day. Just 2 questions ?

What keeps the bolt from moving forward when the clip is inserted ?

Also, what locks the bolt back on the last round ?

Are you meaning that the top round is stripped off the clip, but the bolt likes a little bit going into battery? If this is so, you may have a dirty chamber, or a small obstruction of some type in the chamber. When the bolt goes forward, it should close completely.

As the others have said, with many rifles it is normal to have to "smack" the op rod to get it to go forward and strip off the top round.

Hope this is some help.

An extreme word of caution here. Before you shoot it make sure it will not fire out of battery. I have 1st hand experience of this happening with an m1a and it ruined the gun as well as destroying my confidence in that type of action. I know I will catch flak for this but springfield has a pamphlet about this phenomenon with every m1a they sell.

The lubrication probably did it. Not unusual to have to bump the oprod even if it is cleaned and lubed.

Comletely clean and lube with grease not oil, replace Op Rod spring with one from Orion 7
These springs are old and should be replaced for good function and to help cushion the bolt from slamming into the receiver

An extreme word of caution here. Before you shoot it make sure it will not fire out of battery. I have 1st hand experience of this happening with an m1a and it ruined the gun as well as destroying my confidence in that type of action. I know I will catch flak for this but springfield has a pamphlet about this phenomenon with every m1a they sell.

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Would you provide more information on your out of battery incident?

Specifically, was it with factory ammo or reloads?

From the magazine or single loading?

If reloads, was your brass full length sized, how did you seat your primers and what type of primers did you use?

Looks like a nice rifle congrats!

If it has more malfunctions when properly lubed look into springs. Word of wisdom "get a bore snake and use it" Garands can lose accuracy rather quickly from crown damage sustained in muzzle first cleaning. Looks like a fine rifle. Watch out, they are addicting!

Garands are no more prone to muzzle damage than any other rifle. A good coated cleaning rod is all that is needed, They arent delicate flowers that have to be handled like a baby

I got a new op rod spring also, forgot to mention that. The old one was broken, which could have contributed to the problem.

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Could have? No, I would say definately. That was exactly what I was going to tell you to check. If it was loading everything but the top round out of the 8 round enbloc clip, then it was a spring issue and not a chamber issue. See how fun it is to work on these old guns?

Answer to slamfire 1. The rounds in question were purchased from a gun show. They were reloads. I know that was my mistake. But that still does not negate the fact that springfield warns of the slamfire mystery. I do know that crap just does not happen there is cause and effect. The cause of this was probably bad ammo, but if you research this phenomenem that has not always been the case. Trust me on this one it is very unnerving when it happens.

slamfire, out of battery are two differnt things, Which are we talking about here?

That is a fair question. AS i stated in my original post the caution was an out of battery ignition. BAD TO THE MAX.

The Garand is made in a way that prevents the firing pin from striking the primer if the bolt isn't completely in battery.
Slam fires do occasionally happen
If you hear that somone had a "out of battery" in a Garand , normally after some research its something else

Orlando
Member


Join Date: February 29, 2008
Posts: 40

Garands are no more prone to muzzle damage than any other rifle. A good coated cleaning rod is all that is needed, They arent delicate flowers that have to be handled like a baby

This is true that they are not fragile, however, Why not clean from the breech and avoid the possibility of damaging the muzzle. Damaged crowns are one of the most common accuracy problems and avoidable if you clean from the breech.

what was the price on them?

How would you clean from the breech? Only way is a bore snake and I would rather use a a uncoated rod than that (just my opinion)
I have been shooting Garands for years and clean from the muzzle with a coated rod and no muzzle guide.
I'll open a can of worms here.
There was a gentlemean that did a test. He shot thousands of rds over one summer using a muzzle guide and coated rodto clean so no wear was attributed to cleaning. Guess what ?The muzzle wear increased dramatically. Muzzle Wear is not just from cleaning as the interent myth states but is from actual firing
The Garand Collectors Association also ran a test. They used a USGI steel three piece cleaning rod and purposely ran it against the bore of a Garand. Something like 50000 strokes and muzzle wear was barely increased.
If anyone is interested I can se if I can dig out the articles and post them
What does all this prove? Nothing more than with a small amount of care the Garand will last our lifetime and someone elses


OKIE2
CMP Garand run from $445.00 for a Rack Grade (I dont recommend for your first Garand) up to $1000.00 For your first Garand I strongly recommend a Service Grade for $595.00 unless you can get to a CMP store and handpick a rifle you may find a good Field Grade for $495.00

Boresnakes are useless to remove copper fouling, along with being just generally pretty useless, IMO.

bull turkey, you're betting your life on someone else's reloads?

Yeah, it wasn't you, gonor, it was bullturkey.