Noob Benchrest Shooting

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Newt

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NW Arkansas
When I say 'break into bench shooting', I don't mean I've never shot a rifle in my life. I own several and have hunted with them for several years. I'm not a total noob when it comes to rifles. I am a total noob when it comes to hardcore benchrest shooting and the equipment that goes with it.

Let's say that I want to break into that... What firearm, equipment, advice do you have as to how one would get into something like this? I'm sure there are organizations that organize such meets/matches... What are they? Be specific, I'd like to hear brand, caliber, glass, miscellaneous equipment, advice from people who have or are doing it now. I really am a noob when it comes to stuff like this. I've been an amateur rifle shooter for a long time. I don't want to quit my day job or anything like that, I just want to know how to take it up a notch... TIA
 
Newt;
A very good and inexpensive way to get into BR shooting could be to buy a new Kimber 82g .22rf target rifle from the CMP <http://www.thecmp.org/22targetsurplus.htm>
These rifles are $600.00 for a perfect new rifle and $400.00 for a rifle that they claim to be "rusty". The Rustys are a wonderful deal. According to those that have bought them they are NOT rusty or at worst, barely rusty in places that don't matter. You can go to
<http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=19> for much information about the rifles.
I bought one (the $600.00 one) and am pleased beyond belief. It is an excellent rifle that is accurate far beyond its price. They come with excellent target type aperture sights front & rear that you can sell for about $200.00 to buy ammo with. Their triggers can be adjusted to just under 1 lb without modification (at least mine did) and with some gunsmithing can be brought down to 3 oz.
.22 rf ammo, even the high end stuff is FAR cheaper than any CF ammo of even close to BR standards. You can learn the ropes, make your mistakes, and learn all for little $. You then can sell the Kimber for more than you paid for it if you ever choose to move on to a CF rifle.
Midway offers a Simmons 6 ~ 20 X scope for just over $100.00 that will get you started nicely. It ain't a Swarovski but it will do the job for entry level BR.
Like any sport, ya gotta pay yer dues and learn (generally the hard way) all about your new "sport". This is the means to do so with less pain and less cost.

Check it out.

Roger
 
Oh bud!! I built a precision AR-15 a few months ago and have the bug bad. My wife was like "what's the difference between .3" and .5"? I said .2". Anyway, I've been practicing a lot with my AR for the day when I decide which bolt gun I'm going to get. A bunch of guys that frequent the range I go to are into this precision "benchrest" type shooting and they're a pretty friendly group of guys. I asked them the same questions you are asking about equipment and this is what I got.

Shop for something used in .308, but don't buy anything unless someone that knows what they are looking at takes a look at it. The main reason for this is that you can find a deal on a rifle that's been "accurized" by someone that knows what they are doing and will likely come with a good stock on it. Most of the recommendations seem to come down to either a Savage or Remington 700 model. The Savages seem to come bone stock with a nice trigger and tack driving accuracy. The Remingtons's seem to need a bit of accurizing work (not involving replacement of parts but massaging what's there) and have a lot more aftermarket stuff available for them. Personally, I'm leaning toward a Savage. I shot one a few weeks ago and put three rounds through one hole the first time I laid hands on the rifle.

.308 was recommended because brass is plentiful and it's seems to be one of those calibers that are easy to find a good load for. There's less wear and tear on the rifle too. I was told to just go out and get a butt load of 168gr Sierra projectiles and enough Reloader 15 to load them up and I'd find a tack driving load in there pretty easy.

As for the scope, I'm pretty spoiled when it comes to glass. Since I went to a Nightforce on my AR, I just can't get comfortable with anything less. Maybe that's just in my head. That rifle that I shot a few weeks ago had some flavor of Nightforce benchrest model on it. It had hair thin cross hairs on it and I had a bit of trouble seeing it, but from what I understand, that's what you want on a benchrest scope. If you want some good glass, look at the Nightforce scopes. Great for the price range. If you want to stay under $1K, try Vortex and Sightron. Great bang for the buck scopes.

The rest of it is pretty much a matter of how much you want to spend. The most common rest seems to be the stainless steel (that's what it looked like to me) setup from St.Claire's.

If you want to save money on ammo, I suppose you could get a .223. I've been able to do some things with my AR that some people said couldn't be done. I can only imagine what a .223 bolt gun could do with the right load.

Please take all that I said with a grain of salt. I really don't know what I'm talking about and am only parroting what others, that seem to know what they're doing, have told me and am commenting on my limited personal experience.

I gotta say, what really freaked me out about these rifles that others have let me mess with is the triggers. Under 1lb pulls. Nothing I'd want to be humping around, but great for benchrest.

My advise would be to try to meet some people that are into this and find out who it is in your area that you can trust to do work on your rifle, once you get it. There's a guy down here in Louisiana that can take a bone stock Remington 700 and massage it into something that will rival a custom rifle.
 
All good advice...

I was originally thinking something like .308, but if it makes sense to get into rimfire first, that's fine with me. I like guns, and that's just another reason to have a new one.

Shop for something used in .308, but don't buy anything unless someone that knows what they are looking at takes a look at it.
That's what I want to know... what to look at/for to find these kinds of guns. Other than looking for pitting, I have no idea what to look for.
xphunter: I'm probably going to go more for 100-300 ranges. I'd love to shoot more, but I have no idea where I'd find to shoot that far around here.


Surely there are more suggestions as to what to start out using or where to go for more info...
 
before you drop a lot of cash (which you will do to be competitive in BR), i suggest you do two things:
1. spend a week or two reading 6mmbr.com
2. grab a subscription to Precision Shooting. preferably, look around and try to buy a stack of back-issues from 1980-2000 :)

if otoh, you just want to have fun shooting an accurate rifle off a bench, that's much easier and cheaper!
 
couple questions:

Do you reload already?

What rifles in what calibers do you have already?

How long is your longest local range that you'll be shooting at?

How often or how much do you plan on shooting?

Are you recoil sensitive?

What's your budget?
 
No, I don't currently reload. Also something I wanted to ask about.

I have a Rem. M7 .260, Tikka T3 243, Savage 110 30-06... those would be the only ones that would come close to a bench gun.

I have a local range that goes to 300.

My budget is small as of right now, but will grow.

It's about the same as the budget, small amounts of time right now, but will have more time soon.

I am not recoil sensitive... assuming I'm not going to be shooting anything that kicks harder than 3 1/2" turkey loads. :)
 
The first thing I would do is find out what is going on locally. Having local people to shoot with makes the game much more fun, not to mention the knowledge that can be attained from many of the experienced shooters.

Second would be to find what interests you. There are competitions from 100 yards out to 1000 and anywhere in between. Certain calibers and chamberings do better for different distances. Before you can pick a rifle/chambering, you need to know what distance you plan to shoot. It is also important to pick a distance you can practice at. If the local range only goes to 100 yards, practicing for further competitions is going to be difficult.

Now that you have found a place to practice and know what distance(s) you want to shoot, you can pick a rifle that fits that bill. You also need to look at cost. The bench rest game can be inexpensive to start into, but to be competitive, it gets expensive very quick.

Rimfire is certainly the inexpensive way into the sport. There are many used dedicated .22lr benchrest rifles out there that will let you compete for at or under $1000. Add on a Weaver 36x scope for another $300-$400, and $500 worth of a rest setup and a couple hundred in wind flags and you could be in the game and have equipment capable of winning some matches for right around $2000.

Now you can certainly do it cheaper. The Kimber example above is a good one. Buy a $400 Kimber 82G, sell the sights for $150 if you want (though I would keep them, very nice sights), buy a Nitrex(made by weaver in Japan) TR1 6.5-20x scope(clearanced by natchez plus they have a $50 factory rebate) , a Caldwell Rock BR front rest, a rear bag, and you are in the game for less than $1000. It won't be world class competitive but it may work just fine at the local level. The good thing here is that the Kimber is under priced at $400 and you can easily get your money back. Same thing with the used BR rifle, it has already taken the bulk of the depreciation and you can get most or all of your money back out of it if you decide to sell.

Rimfire is good for a few reasons. First, you have to know how to read the wind to be competitive. This only makes stepping into the centerfire world that much easier. Second, the equipment lasts much longer. A rimfire barrel can go through 10s of thousands of rounds and still shoot well. A centerfire barrel needs replaced after a couple thousand. Also, rimfire ammo is cheap. Top tier ammo runs about $15/50 rounds though if you buy in bulk you save about 10% from that or so. That puts the cost at about $0.22 a shot. You can't get a premium centerfire BR bullet at that cost, let alone loaded ammo. Even handloads run into $0.50 a shot on the low end and range up from there. If you step down a notch on ammo cost as well into the mid range ($4-$6/50) price range these savings grow even more. A 5000 round case of Wolf MT ammo runs about $400 ($0.08/shot). 5000 rounds of centerfire will cost you at least $2000 in ammo plus a $500+ rebarrel or two. As you can see, it quickly is more affordable to be in rimfire BR shooting.

That said, there are a lot of centerfire competitions out there shooting from fairly close to way the heck out there. I know the local guys for me shoot from a bench but they aren't using world class BR equipment. For me, 1/2 MOA out to 200 yards is what it takes to be competitive locally. That can be done with the right factory rifle these days. This certainly isn't competitive BR, but its all I enter locally in the BR world so it works well for me. Check out benchrest.com and 6mmbr.com in the classified section. Lots of good deals can be found on there for some used centerfire equipment ranging from accurate factory rifles up to full blown custom dedicated BR rifles. You can see the pricing and buy what fits your desires. Again though, realize that barrels are like bullets in that they are consumables. If you want to get competitive, you are going to go through a barrel a year or more in the centerfire game.
 
Are any of those rifles that you listed capable of accuracy that would make benchrest shooting worthwhile?

If 300 yards is going to be the limit of your shooting distances, I really don't think that you'd be handicapping yourself by going with a .223.

These are a few three shot groups that I shot this past weekend with my AR-15. They were shot at 100 yards.

DSC_0006.jpg

I like .223. It's really easy to find an accurate load and loading for them is relatively cheap. Although I go through rounds pretty quickly, averaging about 300 rounds per trip to the range, most guys with bolt guns shoot at a much slower pace and usually go through 100 rounds or less in a session. I'm paying right around $100 per 500 for 77gr Sierra Match Kings and around $80 per 500 for the 69gr versions. I use Remington benchrest primers at around $35 per 1000 and Reloader 15 powder at around $20 a pound. Brass is cheap at around $60 per 1000 for once fired Lake City brass. These are the components that I use to load "match" grade ammunition.

Of course, there is always the initial cost of the reloading equipment. This is one area that I would advise you not to skimp on. For benchrest rifle, all you really need is a good single stage press. The Lee Classic Cast, RCBS Rockchucker, the Hornady, etc. will all do the job. Just get a good set of dies, a good scale and a method of dispensing your powder. All manufacturers offer some sort of "kit" that will include all that you need to get started, but looking at the kits it seems to me that although they do come with a good single stage press, everything else is usually bottom of the line. For that reason, I've always tried to steer clear of "kits."
 
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