firearm storage

I have used nothing but R.I.G. grease for about 50 years on an extensive gun collection with never any hint of rust.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=31842/Product/RIG_reg__UNIVERSAL_GUN_GREASE

I use a sheep wool applicator pad and wipe down my guns with R.I.G. every time I handle or clean them.

Oil on a finger might help, but it is far from being an ideal safe-guard against rust.
Your finger probably has salt from sweat on it, among other things.
And some oils are practically worthless as rust protection.

If nothing else, buy a cheap silicon cloth at Wally-World and wipe them down with that.
http://www.brownells.com/1/1/46899-silicone-gun-cloth-silicone-gun-cloth-armor-accessories.html

For lubricating a 1911?
Rem-Oil, CLP, or 30 weight motor oil if you have nothing better.

That it runs dry in one magazine indicates you are using a light thin oil unsuitable for gun use. It must be running out one end when you put it in the other end.

rc

A couple questions RC. I have read about tests that indicate the two top popular products for rust prevention are Break Free CLP and EESOX.

Might CLP be a good choice for wiping down the exterior of a gun for protection?

And about EESOX. It's supposed to be great for rust prevention, and it dries to prevent dust accumulation and fingerprints. But it seems very toxic and may damage some surfaces. I obtained some to try out. It provides a beautiful finish on blued metal, and doesn't seem to adversely affect brass, but it did some pretty weird things to case hardening. It was on a Cimarron repro though, so the case hardening may have been chemical. (Cleaning seemed to restore the finish.) Have you any opinion on this?

I've read some good things about a product called Gunzilla. They claim this stuff is great to remove carbon and copper fouling inside the bore and to lubricate the firearm. It's applied as a liquid but dries to a thin grease-like texture, making it good for surface coating firearms against rust.

A friend and I are going to purchase some shortly and give it a shot. Between the two of us, Gunzilla will be put to the test with all types of different rifles, shotguns, and pistols.

Buuut...if you don't want to go that route, I would say use something of a thicker viscosity for storage and for lubrication on the 1911. A lot of people favor Mobil 1 motor oil for lubricating rails and such on pistols, and a quick wipe-down of the entire firearm.

See this:
CLP didn't fair too well.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=...nic__Knowing_the_Limits_of_Rust_Preventatives


Actually, a couple of coats of Johnson's Paste Floor Wax is about as good cheap rust protection as anything.

See this about that:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=4110525&postcount=7

rc

Darn all those products and claims, that's precisely why I asked... thank you RC.

I did a Google on "gun rust test" to try and find that article I mentioned where CLP came out on top. In the process I found a number of other articles about corrosion prevention. In the few that I looked over, those that tested EESOX all rated it tops. The success of CLP varied.

I was keenly interested in EESOX because it dries, leaves a great finish, and has such great reviews. But I'm concerned what materials might be damaged by it. It seems very potent by it's smell. I don't want to experiment too much with it until I can get some feedback from folks who use it. But I haven't been able to find anyone yet. Perhaps others are afraid of it too.

Anyway, for what it's worth, here is a link to the article I mentioned, and then a link to another corrosion test that I thought was interesting.

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

unless you live near the ocean or some other unforgiving environment, a light coat of oil and some desiccant should be all you need.

thats what i do and ive never had a problem.....

I agree, up to a point.
Some oil is next to worthless in nutrelizing fingerprints, or preventing rust.

Some folks have sweaty hands.
And some folks have sweat that will take the chrome plating off a Harley muffler in 15 minutes.

Getting in the habit of using a gun specific wipe-down cloth of some kind every time you have handled the gun will go far in preventing rust.

rc

rcmodel said:

And some folks have sweat that will take the chrome plating off a Harley muffler in 15 minutes.

Click to expand...

I am one of these people.

I use Eezox with great success as a rust preventative. I keep a rag dampened with Eezox in a ziplock bag for quick wipe downs.

Winston_Smith said:

I am one of these people.

I use Eezox with great success as a rust preventative. I keep a rag dampened with Eezox in a ziplock bag for quick wipe downs.

Click to expand...

Have you experienced any problems with EESOX on some surfaces?

I wiped down an Uberti reproduction that has a blued barrel & cylinder, brass grip frame, and case hardened receiver with EESOX. It did a nice job on the blued surface, but I got brown blotches on the case hardening, and lost the case coloring from the loading gate. I cleaned of the receiver with solvent and the brown blotches eventually went away, but the loading gate is still white.

I want to use EESOX because it seems to work so well, but I'm a bit uneasy about it. (Deadly odor also.)

I did a little investigating on case hardening, and I sent an email to EEZOX.

It seems that the problem I had with EEZOX removing some of the case hardening color was likely the fault of the gun maker. Uberti/Cimarron probably doesn't provide true case hardening to their receivers but give it a finish that just looks like case hardening. Ruger apparently did this also and had so much trouble with people sending their guns back for refinishing they stopped making case hardened guns. I even saw where someone complained that CLP removed the case coloring, so I guess that's the name of that tune.

I got a call back from Paul from the company that makes EEZOX. He assured me that it is safe to use on all metal surfaces. The only things to avoid are wood with a polyurethane finish, and rubber. He said EEZOX is used by some museums and military personnel without issues. I was impressed that he cared enough to call. That speaks well of the company.

On tests for protection against rust EEZOX seems to consistently come out on top. It cleans and is said to provide good lubrication even after it dries. But I really like the dry finish on the outer surfaces of the gun that doesn't attract dust and show fingerprints and such as other finishes do.

I use Ballistol. It removes rust,prevents rust, and won't hurt your wood.
you can also run it down the barrel and it cleans. It is non petroleum.
The Germans developed and uses it for over 100 years.

Preventing rust starts with keeping the guns dry. A good almost airtight safe, some silica gel or other desiccant, and then a light coating of a good rust resisting oil. One of the characteristics of todays motor oils is their excellent ability to resist rust. Careful application on all moving parts and wiping over exposed surfaces and firearms will last longer than we will.

All the exotic "wonder products" in many cases don't even meet the capabilities of todays premium motor oils. All my firearms are lubed and wiped down with what I collect from the leftovers in the bottle after an oil change on my vehicles. Mobil-1 Synthetic, 5W-30. From pistols to AR's, Shotguns to Rifles.

I have seen rusty motor oil cans (when they used to use cans).

Matter of fact, I have my old mans oil squirt can that has been continuously filled with motor oil forever.
It is rusty all over!

Never seen a rusty R.I.G. can.

rc

rcmodel-

They haven't used oil cans since LBJ was president. Won't argue about Rig but today's motor oils, with API certification, are as good as anything to prevent rust. Rig I have to buy. Motor Oil I have plenty of already.

See this:
CLP didn't fair too well.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1..._Preventatives


Actually, a couple of coats of Johnson's Paste Floor Wax is about as good cheap rust protection as anything.

See this about that:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost....25&postcount=7

rc

Click to expand...

Actually rc Brownells tested LP, not CLP. CLP works better. It was originally invented for the plating industry and preventing flash rusting of prepped bare steel parts. I've run corrosion tests for myself going on 7 years now. Breakfree CLP and Eezox work better than any wax and most grease. Anyone who says CLP isn't a good rust preventive is misinformed. It's one of the very best. I don't know why the LP version isn't a better rust preventer but that is the case.....

We offer a line of storage bags that depending on use can offer anti corrosion protection from 5 - 20 years. Our bags use a VpCI technology that only requires firearms receive a normal cleaning. They're are convenient because you don't have to apply any extra oil or grease and when the firearm is removed from the bag it is ready to be used since there is no residue left behind from the VpCI molecules.

Our ZCORR Bags also use the same VpCI material that is in our US Marine Corp M16 bag.

For a more in depth explanation of how they work you can visit our How it works page

http://www.zcorrproducts.com/pages/how-it-works