Videos - Reloading black powder shotshells without a reloading press

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duelist1954

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I've put together a three part video series on reloading shotshells without using a reloading press.

The first video shows what I call the "Nail & Dowel Method" which uses simple items that are probably already in your home to reload shells:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZ4IBv0Bg9U

The second video covers loading shells using a Lee Loader kit:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBRX6i8Rp6o

The final video shows how to load shotshells using antique reloading tools

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhT2l6808v4
 
Unlike many of the "instructional" videos on YouTube, your was concise, clear, and very well done. You have a gift for explanation, sir!
 
These vids could not be more well timed.

I just learned that our local BP shot shell guy is moving away and I likely won't be able to get another batch of BP shot shells.

Best of all I got a couple of boxes of reloading equipment about a year back from a shop owner I'd done some favours for and it had two of those antique roll crimpers in it. One is obviously too small and the other was a 12Ga. I tried rolling an empty in it but obviously it didn't work since I had not cut it down like you showed. Now that I've seen your videos I'm all set to have a go at this.
 
It is good to hear that the videos are useful to you and it is nice to see folks with similar interests.

About five years ago I wrote one of my black powder columns in "Guns of the Old West" magazine on the nail and dowel reloading method. I'm thinking of doing another column on the Lee Loader and on antique tools.
 
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I've got two of the Lee Loader shotgun shell kits, a 12 gauge and a 20 gauge. I got both of them when I was a teenager. Now I wish I had picked the shelf clean, because the store had one of each of the Lee Loader kits.

I loaded several 12 gauge shells and they loaded just fine in my Browning Light 12. I used it to load some Magtech all brass shells a year ago, but I had to install the large pistol primers like in the nail and dowel instructions and the brass shells call for 11 gauge components and the shell needed to be lubed or it would get stuck.
 
RCBS makes a nice die set for brass shot shells. I reviewed it for Guns of the Old West about a year ago.

Liked it enough to buy it.

Basically you can do everything you need to on a brass hull with the methods in the video...except crimp, which is an area where the RCBS die is handy.

I've shot the brass shells in a couple of CAS matches recently and they worked well in my vintage side hammer guns.
 
I only load plastic hulls one time with B-P. The high heat from black powder tends to make them brittle fast. I could probably get two....maybe even three uses out of them, but I see no point to it.

My way of getting hulls is to find out when the local trap league is shooting at my club. After the match I raid the trash cans and fill a 30 gallon garbage bag with high quality hulls. That usually lasts me for a few seasons.
 
I agree. when you go out to your local shooting range you can pick up hundreds of hulls for free. When you load them with smokeless powder you maybe able to use them a couple of times. However i found that the intense heat of black powder is too much for the plastic. After shooting i have found that the heat will distort the plastic is some areas. Actually looking like major burn marks on the plastic. On some i actually had to use a range rod to help push the hull out as they would stick in the chambers. A quick fix of sprinkling some Talc powder over the hulls before shooting or in my box of shells solved the problem. One thing for sure when you shoot black powder everyone will stop and ask you "what are you shooting" i mean the smoke is one thing. However you will find usually a way tighter spread. Then when you pack the shot heavy you will see a much greater amount of shot being shot. I had some guys once trying to pay me to make them some.
 
Great videos. I just watched them last night.

A couple questions:

Do you vary the thickness of the cushion wad to bring the shot up to crimp level?

When not using the plastic wads that surround the shot, can one expect some leading in the bore?

Was the Lee Loader ever available in .410?

I'm sure I'll think of more. Thanks in advance!
 
No, Questionable, YES

Most wads in felt are 3/8 and 1/2 they do make thicker wads. if you want you could add more. the most common thing to do is just add more shot.

As for leading the shot is not heated up to where it is streaking lead all down the barrel. I would use felt wads not plastic. As when you use plastic then you are just coating the inside of the barrel with melted plastic. Kinda like shooting an inline muzzleloader with plastic sabots. After each round you need to swab the barrel to remove plastic residue.

Yes lee did make a .410 lee loader. Heck im sitting on one right now. At one time i had 3 of them. i sold off two of them. They were both used. i have one right now old stock but brand new never used. Still in the original package like it was brand new. I figure in a few years i will put it up for auction at clean $100 or more. :D you dont need a lee loader though. just get the wads and you can do it yourself. long 4 inch penny nail some wooden dowels some washers.

This is where you can get the wads.

http://www.circlefly.com/html/products.html
 
Thank you Scrat for your continuing contributions to the black powder community. This has been added to the Black Powder Essentials.
 
As when you use plastic then you are just coating the inside of the barrel with melted plastic. Kinda like shooting an inline muzzleloader with plastic sabots.

Thanks, scrat. I was thinking more in terms of smokeless loads.

It would be nice to put the star crimp back on. Can that be done by hand and a dowel, or does it have to be in a die for support?
 
the rolo crimp is really nice. i have never tried to do one without the press.

The roll crimp is nice i have never tried to do one without the press. as for smokeless i have loaded smokeless with plastic wads. you will need to consult a loading manual to get the proper load. however its basiclly the same thing. you just need to follow a load manual as the plastic wad is still loaded all the way down. on the bottom of the wad is cup to maintain pressure. this is where the proper powder load comes in play. once you do that pour in the shot the either crimp the top or cut and use an over the shot wad
 
SAA, If I were to want to use 7/8th of an ounce of shot rather than 1 oz, I would add another over powder card to the load column.

I have split cushion wads into thirds and added an extra cushion slice to each shell to increase the column height, but I find that the additional nitro card usually works fine for me.
 
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