Aluminum or steel subframe?

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I'd already set my heart on a Sig P238 but as you guys know there are many variations of this pistol.

I"ve always prefered all steel guns but since my local dealer passed away I may be forced to get whatever Cabela's has in stock.

Now my question is, when it comes to mating surfaces on a 1911 style pistol would it make sense to get an HD (all steel) version for longevity or would the aluminum subframe be just as good? I would think anytime you have steel rubbing on aluminum at high speeds steel would win and start to chew up the alumium.

What I'm getting at is for the best slide to frame fit over time would I be OK with the aluminum guns or should I hold out till I get an HD?
 
I suspect, with a P-238 (or any gun of that size), you're not going to shoot it enough to ever worry about wearing out the frame -- whether it's steel or alloy.

I've had several of the small .380 (and 9x18) and they're generally not all that pleasant to shoot -- so a lot of range time isn't likely.

With each passing year, aluminum frames seem to be more and more durable.

I'd consider steel only because it's heavier and likely to make recoil a bit more manageable.
 
I"ve always prefered all steel guns but since my local dealer passed away I may be forced to get whatever Cabela's has in stock.

I know shipping pistols isn't my idea of 'fun' or particularly cheap, but don't give up on looking for them on-line. Sometimes the price will be very good. You also may be able to find the pistol you prefer rather than what Cabelas offers.

9mm runs higher pressures than 45ACP. My 239 has been shot A LOT and the aluminum frame does show some slight wear, but it shoots better now than it did new. The bbl is tight and nothing has ever failed. I used it in a weekly USPSA league + practice for two years.

bds, I haven't kept up with them; but unless something changed some are all stainless uppers with aluminum alloy frames. NOT, I wasn't thinking 1911.
 
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The 1911's may be all steel but the P238's are not.
The P238 is built on an anodized alloy beavertail style frame with fluted grips for comfort and a secure hold during rapid-fire usage. The stainless steel slide features the popular SIG SAUER slide serrations and improves overall performance and accuracy.
http://www.sigsauer.com/CatalogProductDetails/p238-two-tone.aspx

Only the HD's are steel on steel if I'm reading this correctly.
 
The stainless steel slide features the popular SIG SAUER slide serrations and improves overall performance and accuracy.

It was the rest of that advertising copy that got me all choked up.

I don't understand how a stainless steel slide or the "popular SIG SAUER" slide serrations could improve accuracy over a carbon steel slide or a slide without serrations... (I wonder how they define "performance -- sell more?)

Watch out -- SIG may try to sell you a great bridge in Brooklyn, next.
 
Watch out -- SIG may try to sell you a great bridge in Brooklyn, next.

Serrated stainless steel concrete roadway support with aluminum allow bridge structure! Wowee.

My Sig 239 has been accurate and totally reliable. I don't remember the serrations though.:D
 
AFAIK, regardless of finish, all new Sig 1911s are stainless frame/slide.

Frame to slide fit is very good/excellent.

Nope. My 2011 build C3 Has an Aluminum frame, as does the Ultra, Platinum, and others. You're right about the fit though.
 
As far as durability is concerned with the aluminum frame, it is the anodizing that provides the hardness and wear resistance.

To get an idea for comparison of weights, steel vs. aluminum, I suggest you compare a P230(stainless) and P232(aluminum); both .380 like the P238, but different designs. With very minor exceptions they are identical pistols except for the frame metal so a very accurate comparison can be made.

I'm very happy with my Sigs, P220, P229, P239, P232 which all have aluminum frames. My P230 with stainless frame is a very "solid" in the hand, more-so than the aluminum frames.

I personally feel the Sigs are worth their premium price and I have had nothing but great luck with them.
 
Viper said:
bds said:
AFAIK, regardless of finish, all new Sig 1911s are stainless frame/slide.
My 2011 build C3 Has an Aluminum frame, as does the Ultra, Platinum, and others.
Viper, I did say "all new Sig 1911s".


These are quotes from Sig website for all of their non-stainless steel models. Of course, all of stainless models are stainless steel frame/slide:

Nitron - The 1911 pistols from SIG SAUER® feature all stainless steel frames and slides machined to exacting tolerances and hand-fitted to insure reliability and performance.

XO - The all stainless steel frame and slide of the XO are machined to exacting tolerances and hand-fitted to insure reliability and performance.

TTT - The all stainless steel frame and slide of the Triple T are machined to exacting tolerances and hand-fitted to insure reliability and performance.

Scorpion - The 1911 Scorpion is truely unique, from its desert tan Cerakote® coated stainless frame and slide.
 
Two of my Suzuki Motorcycles have a steel cam shaft rotating in the all aluminum head (journals) at very high RPM's. No wear, no anodizing. Dissimilar materials do not generally wear on each other. You are more likely to get wear from the dirt and grime on the frame rubbing than the stainless slide.
 
this is kinda' like saying better sights make the gun more accurate - they only make YOU more accurate, not the gun
 
this is kinda' like saying better sights make the gun more accurate - they only make YOU more accurate, not the gun

You're technically right, but realistically aside from a very limited number of test environments, guns typically aren't fired without a shooter.

As such the accuracy of a gun is best described as a system consisting of the gun itself and the shooter. A better trigger, longer sight radius, better sights, etc don't affect the inherent accuracy of a gun, but it would be foolish not to include them in discussions regarding accuracy potential of one gun vs another.
 
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