I've got two smith and wesson revolvers and was wondering when I should take them apart and clean the internals. Both work flawlessly but my model 29 is shot with lead and the exterior is filthy after about 50 rounds, so I'm wondering what the inside looks like.
How often to detail clean a revolver?
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R.W.Dale
Member
A year at most for me too
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!
IMO: You will do more harm to a S&W detail stripping it annually then if you never ever detail stripped it.
I just cleaned a Colt Commando and a S&W Victory model last year that had never been opened up since they were made in 1941-42.
Thats 70 years!
Guess what?
Except for dried oil, there was nothing inside them to clean out!
They are not really intended to be taken apart unless they stop working when something breaks.
Take the front sideplace screw out and slip the crane & cylinder foreward off the frame for cylinder cleaning.
DO NOT take the cylinder assemble apart.
Blow it out with compressed air occasionally.
Then put a drop of gun oil in the hammer, trigger, hand, bolt slots, and ejector rod.
Work the action and wipe it down.
Constent detail stripping will wear and loosen the tightly fitted side-plate joint over time.
rc
IMO: You will do more harm to a S&W detail stripping it annually then if you never ever detail stripped it.
I just cleaned a Colt Commando and a S&W Victory model last year that had never been opened up since they were made in 1941-42.
Thats 70 years!
Guess what?
Except for dried oil, there was nothing inside them to clean out!
They are not really intended to be taken apart unless they stop working when something breaks.
Take the front sideplace screw out and slip the crane & cylinder foreward off the frame for cylinder cleaning.
DO NOT take the cylinder assemble apart.
Blow it out with compressed air occasionally.
Then put a drop of gun oil in the hammer, trigger, hand, bolt slots, and ejector rod.
Work the action and wipe it down.
Constent detail stripping will wear and loosen the tightly fitted side-plate joint over time.
rc
Thanks all for the information. The model 19 is 30 years old and hasn't ever been cleaned internally, so it either needs it very badly or not at all. I'll take a peek inside, but I'm inclined to follow your advice RC and just leave well enough alone.
R.W.Dale
Member
If its a gun your life depends on it needs to be cleaned PERIOD
Because when a revolver gets to that point of HAVING to be cleaned a funny thing happens. IT QUITS WORKING
Carried guns will get all kinds of gunk built up inside em much much more so that a gun owned by a WWI vet spending half a century in his sock drawer.
After doing it a couple times its not too hard and you get to understand more about how they work as a bonus, but I must say its a great deal more intricate than a typical automatic and more in line with detail stripping a semiautomatic 22 rifle (non nylon66)
Because when a revolver gets to that point of HAVING to be cleaned a funny thing happens. IT QUITS WORKING
Carried guns will get all kinds of gunk built up inside em much much more so that a gun owned by a WWI vet spending half a century in his sock drawer.
After doing it a couple times its not too hard and you get to understand more about how they work as a bonus, but I must say its a great deal more intricate than a typical automatic and more in line with detail stripping a semiautomatic 22 rifle (non nylon66)
ColtPythonElite
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I'm with rc. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.....The most I have ever done is soak one or two in Ed's Red and let it drip dry.
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Depends on how it is used. A police duty weapon should be detailed disassembled, cleaned and inspected annually by the departmental armorer.
A civilian gun depends on how much it is fired, how it is stored, how much oil is applied (especially if the dreaded WD-40 is used), weather conditions and how often it is carried.
A civilian gun depends on how much it is fired, how it is stored, how much oil is applied (especially if the dreaded WD-40 is used), weather conditions and how often it is carried.
fecmech
Member
I personally think more problems are caused by "cleaning" and "detail stripping" than are solved.
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I disagree with the former. Cleaning is necessary if you want to ensure that your gun operates. 90% of most gun malfunctions are because the gun is dirty.
That said, I would agree with the latter on detail stripping. Unless one does some reading and researching (at least study the parts diagram), has a degree of mechanical aptitude and the proper tools, trying to detail strip a gun can cause problems. Some folks here are very experienced and we've some retired gunsmiths, active gunsmiths and armorers. Unless their vision goes or they develop Parkinsons' Disease (heaven forbid), most of them can easily work on guns. The principals by which a gun functions and is assembled are pretty much the same (most pistols use the tilt breach locking system designed by God's prophet on earth, John Moses Browning; guns are held together by screws, pins, spring tension, interlocking parts or some no pressure device whose mere presence keeps things in place). Folks who aren't mechanically inclined (and I have friends who have trouble field-stripping a military rifle), no training (use a bigger hammer), not of their right mind (ahem, drunk and I know someone who in an inebriated state broke their gun while trying to field strip it) just shouldn't try it at all.
The only revolver I regularly detail strip a S&W 629 I carry in the field while hunting, hiking, ATV'ing and general outdoors fun. I spend a LOT of time in the field and this poor revolver starts to get "gritty" after about a year. I don't care for flap holsters, so the hammer area is exposed to the elements. Rain, dirt and all manner of crap end up leaching into the inner workings of the action.
I have several revolvers that other than than some action work to slick them up a bit shortly after purchase, have never been apart since. I have a Colt King Cobra that I cannot even imagine the round count on and it's never been apart since I've owned it. I bought it used in 1992 or 93.
I am in the camp of RC and others: If it ain't broke, don't mess with it.
I have several revolvers that other than than some action work to slick them up a bit shortly after purchase, have never been apart since. I have a Colt King Cobra that I cannot even imagine the round count on and it's never been apart since I've owned it. I bought it used in 1992 or 93.
I am in the camp of RC and others: If it ain't broke, don't mess with it.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
JaxJim provides what I see as the perfect example. One revolver sees plenty of work (frequency of use) while the other is more a safe queen. The 629 is a good example of a harsh environment where the Colt King Cobra sees a nice clean environment. There is no need to field strip a revolver to the component level unless it needs it or you have some obsession with taking revolvers apart.
Thus my thinking is in the rcmodel camp on this one. You do not completely disassemble a revolver for cleaning unless it needs it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Just My Take
Ron
Thus my thinking is in the rcmodel camp on this one. You do not completely disassemble a revolver for cleaning unless it needs it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Just My Take
Ron
beatledog7
Member
About every million rounds, or when they seem to need it, whichever comes first.
The one thing I want to say about all of my revolvers, none of them are safe queens! Every one of them probably is shot at least once a year. I generally take several of the same caliber out at the same time. There are my favorites of course that go every time that caliber comes out of the safe, but they all get a visit to the range once or twice a year. Well except for the AMTs and one Taurus. 
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