Anybody ever take a Dremel tool...
- Thread starter Tom Fury
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Well I am going to go against the grain here and say there are gun tasks that a dremel is very usful for.
Like any other tool if you use it correctly for the right task it produces good results, if you don't know how to use it, or when to use it, then leave it alone.
Like any other tool if you use it correctly for the right task it produces good results, if you don't know how to use it, or when to use it, then leave it alone.
steveracer
Member
You guys even know what a grip on a 4506 looks like? You keep telling the OP to avoid removing metal, to never take a dremel to a gun, to take it to a good gunsmith, etc.
When removed, the grip of a 45xx pistol is about 2 ounces of black plastic.
There is a LOT of material that can be removed from the back of the arched version of the grip to make it suitable to your needs. I did this several times (with a sander, vice a dremel, but whatever) to get what I wanted before I found the "FBI Palmswell 1076 grip" on another forum. This was the best of both worlds for me, and I never looked back.
However, there's NO reason for the OP to not modify his grip on his S&W all he wants. As long as the perch for the mainspring isn't compromised (this takes a lot of cutting) there's nothing to prevent shaping the grip to his hand.
When removed, the grip of a 45xx pistol is about 2 ounces of black plastic.
There is a LOT of material that can be removed from the back of the arched version of the grip to make it suitable to your needs. I did this several times (with a sander, vice a dremel, but whatever) to get what I wanted before I found the "FBI Palmswell 1076 grip" on another forum. This was the best of both worlds for me, and I never looked back.
However, there's NO reason for the OP to not modify his grip on his S&W all he wants. As long as the perch for the mainspring isn't compromised (this takes a lot of cutting) there's nothing to prevent shaping the grip to his hand.
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Tom Fury
Member
OP is long time plastic modeller with years of "unfortunate reflexes" with Dremel and plastic (which 4506 grips undoubtedly are). I would of course, for the knee jerkers, take the grips off first and I have several sets of spares to make mistakes with; I assume there are other modellers/gun enthusiasts out there who share a similar conviction that they are quite capable of making necessary changes to plastic; Ok, OK, if it makes you feel better, I can do it with a file or sandpaper I think; just wondered if anyone else had tried it. Keep Calm and reload. For the one who observed I should just get a 4506 already; I OWN SEVERAL. I love them very much, but this could be an improvement apparently not appreciated at the factory (they never had problems with "not invented here" at S&W, did they)? Many have lamented the fact a 6/745 (have 1 each of those too) had a kinder grip heel profile than the 4506 and that it was closer to a 39 in shape; I noticed it too and want to go there. I am quite sure I specifically referred to modifying the GRIP and not the frame (If you know the gun you know you could do this) and have done several reductions of Hogue grips to slenderize them. Thanks for the non input. Geez...
For those of you who provided sane input (you know who you are) Thank you very much. I have only been able to obtain 1 pair of 1076 grips, and agree with you very much its' the way to go.
Really trying to puzzle out ways to make the heel of the grip on a 457/16, 4513 a little more comfortable, and preserving some backstrap behind the mag when modifying stock 4516 grips to fit CS-45 or 4513; thought it was a simpler thing to do it for the 4506 and started asking questions there.
For those who wonder why I didn't get what I wanted or trade for another in the first place; CS-45 was only ever issued with Hogues which are huge and sticky rubber and defeat the purpose of a hide out gun. Enthusiasts for this type have been modifying the grips for years to get what they want and this usually involves modifying a 4516 plastic 1 pc grip to get there. 4513 is similar set up; 4513s in 4516 grip configuration are thin on the ground and certainly more outrageously expensive than modifying a set of grips. I am just proposing a mod I have never seen before; I am quite familiar with the grip mods I discussed above for the CS-45, but want better for my 4506 as well; the one set of 1076 grips I have been able to get (are there any still available from the factory?) are mounted on my CQB. (I own 2). So long and thanks for all the fish...
For those of you who provided sane input (you know who you are) Thank you very much. I have only been able to obtain 1 pair of 1076 grips, and agree with you very much its' the way to go.
Really trying to puzzle out ways to make the heel of the grip on a 457/16, 4513 a little more comfortable, and preserving some backstrap behind the mag when modifying stock 4516 grips to fit CS-45 or 4513; thought it was a simpler thing to do it for the 4506 and started asking questions there.
For those who wonder why I didn't get what I wanted or trade for another in the first place; CS-45 was only ever issued with Hogues which are huge and sticky rubber and defeat the purpose of a hide out gun. Enthusiasts for this type have been modifying the grips for years to get what they want and this usually involves modifying a 4516 plastic 1 pc grip to get there. 4513 is similar set up; 4513s in 4516 grip configuration are thin on the ground and certainly more outrageously expensive than modifying a set of grips. I am just proposing a mod I have never seen before; I am quite familiar with the grip mods I discussed above for the CS-45, but want better for my 4506 as well; the one set of 1076 grips I have been able to get (are there any still available from the factory?) are mounted on my CQB. (I own 2). So long and thanks for all the fish...
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steveracer
Member
Tom,
If you use the mainspring adapter that comes with the Hogue (play-dough) grips, you can modify the arched-grip 45xx piece quite a lot. I cut one out and filled the space with two-part epoxy once, and it was really nice, but separated from the Delrin upon firing.
If you can find the palm swell grip, and don't like the palm swell part of it, it can be sanded clean off, leaving you with a very nice backstrap shape and the same width of the normal 45xx grip. This might prove unsightly, but will be very effective.
If you use the mainspring adapter that comes with the Hogue (play-dough) grips, you can modify the arched-grip 45xx piece quite a lot. I cut one out and filled the space with two-part epoxy once, and it was really nice, but separated from the Delrin upon firing.
If you can find the palm swell grip, and don't like the palm swell part of it, it can be sanded clean off, leaving you with a very nice backstrap shape and the same width of the normal 45xx grip. This might prove unsightly, but will be very effective.
Onward Allusion
Member
Yes. I know what the grip looks like. There is NOT a lot of material to remove. Just spend the $20 and get the straight grip. It'll look a hell of a lot better than some bubba job. If the OP absolutely must do it himself, use a sanding block and do it slowly.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=444626702
steveracer
Member
I think his point is that the straight grip is TOO straight, and the curved grip is TOO curved.
I think he can find the happy medium. I did.
I think he can find the happy medium. I did.
doubleh
Member
I am in total agreement with post #28.
Walt Sherrill
Member
That frame looks like it spent some time under the tip of a soldering gun or the tool used to do wood burning, too. I don't think a Dremel, alone, could do all of that...
(Wood burning: a lost art, well lost?)
MachIVshooter
Member
Agreed 100%.
One of the best uses I've found for them is with soft wire cup brushes to remove the burn marks from the face of revolver cylinders and clean the carbon out of AR bolt carriers.
Zaydok Allen
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I have used a Dremel with a brass brush to remove carbon rings from the front of a stainless revolver cylinder.
Otherwise...........no.
Otherwise...........no.
1stmarine
Member
Whenever I think "bubba", I think of this gun. What has been seen cannot be unseen!
HisSoldier
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It is just a tool! Like any tool it is the responsibility of the person using it to use it correctly, sort of like a gun in that regard.
I own a shop with machines costing many thousands of dollars, but I still use the humblest tools as well, a simple file (Don't go near a gun with a file!) , and occasionally a Dremel. It is a rotating fractional HP tool system, try to not stick it in your eyeball!
Sheesh.
P.S. Gunsmiths use files on guns all the time. If they want to use a rotating tool they do that too, like any tool you have to know how to use it.
I own a shop with machines costing many thousands of dollars, but I still use the humblest tools as well, a simple file (Don't go near a gun with a file!) , and occasionally a Dremel. It is a rotating fractional HP tool system, try to not stick it in your eyeball!
Sheesh.
P.S. Gunsmiths use files on guns all the time. If they want to use a rotating tool they do that too, like any tool you have to know how to use it.
jimmyraythomason
Member
1stmarine
Member
I let that guy to do one of my glocks! lol.
Arkansas Paul
Member
Tom Fury
Member
OP seeks to modify HEEL of 4506 straight grip
Unfortunately I'm in the UK or wouldn't be asking...
(Just had to get this in somewhere... from Castle season 5x03)
Beckett, holding suspect at gunpoint: "Take your hands off your tool, Marko!"
(Ryan and Espo snicker)
Beckett: "Shut up..."
Thanks, all. J
Looking for his Dremel and sanding sticks...
Unfortunately I'm in the UK or wouldn't be asking...(Just had to get this in somewhere... from Castle season 5x03)
Beckett, holding suspect at gunpoint: "Take your hands off your tool, Marko!"
(Ryan and Espo snicker)
Beckett: "Shut up..."
Thanks, all. J
Looking for his Dremel and sanding sticks...
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The dremel is a perfectly fine tool in the hands of someone with the experience and knowledge to use it properly much like a chainsaw is a great tool for cutting up trees, but only in competent hands. I wouldn't let my 6 year old use my chainsaw nor would I recommend an inexperienced person take a dremel to their firearm.
I've used a dremel many times to throat .45 auto barrels so that they would reliably feed hollow points, with excellent results. The trick, however, is to take your time and to know how much metal to remove. If you don't know what you are doing, you can easily ruin the barrel.
Me too, as far as Glock trigger polish jobs are concerned anyway. Perfect for that.
Russellc
Big Shrek
Member
Best thing a Dremel is good for on a firearm is hogging out some space when one is
about to do a glass bedding job on a stock...
Faster than a chisel, but requires just as deft a touch!
about to do a glass bedding job on a stock...
Faster than a chisel, but requires just as deft a touch!
No, but I've used a dremel on plastic grips and on the backstrap of an aluminum alloy gun. Why use a dremel? Because sometimes an angle grinder just doesn't fit.
Like Chicarone said, mostly for fast material removal. Fine shaping was done with files and/or sanding blocks. Depending on how much material you want to remove and in what shape, starting with sanding blocks/paper could be considered the fool's errand.
I've used a Dremel on numerous smaller steel gun parts, as well. Sometimes, it's the perfect tool for the job.
Like Chicarone said, mostly for fast material removal. Fine shaping was done with files and/or sanding blocks. Depending on how much material you want to remove and in what shape, starting with sanding blocks/paper could be considered the fool's errand.
I've used a Dremel on numerous smaller steel gun parts, as well. Sometimes, it's the perfect tool for the job.
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steveracer
Member
I think the OP needs to submit a new thread: Anyone Ever Re-shape the Grip of a S&W 45xx Pistol?
All of these comments about the Dremel have nothing to do with what the OP is actually asking, especially when you realize it's on a $20 piece of plastic.
Just a recommendation. He never mentioned using a dremel to destroy some steel parts of his pistol. Never once.
All of these comments about the Dremel have nothing to do with what the OP is actually asking, especially when you realize it's on a $20 piece of plastic.
Just a recommendation. He never mentioned using a dremel to destroy some steel parts of his pistol. Never once.
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