Riddle me this

Your die set DOES have a crimp... it's the standard bullet seating/crimping die. Turn it in if you want crimp, turn it out if you don't.

But IMO you don't need to crimp rifle rounds if case neck tension is correct.

Check the brass for length, I have found many brand new cases that were too long right out of the bag.

You should check the length of the new brass. I have bought brass that needed trimming from the word go. I usually run mine through the sizing die just for good measure, but that may be my light case of OCD taking over.

Lots of good info., including handloading tips, in this CMP article.

http://thecmp.org/wp-content/uploads/CMP_Carbine_Notes_2007.pdf

Laphroaig

Looks like you were on a good start (I do suggest trimming to length, but you checked) and got side tracked. The best thing you can do with the crimping is ignore it until you get some handloads completed and shooting well. crimping canbe a huge pain to deal with, and offers nothing in gain in your situation.

When you crimp a bullet it sizes the diameter of the case mouth in towards the bullet...which is the case mouth only and will not have any effect on length to speak of when setting up your trim to length.

Trim length is important on new brass it's best to full length size each case or at least run the expander ball through the case neck, then trim all your brass to the length you desire. That will allow you to see how much your cases are stretching etc, also provides a good starting point for working up loads.

If you can put weight on the bullet as you have posted then you have done a really good job. I know your nervous on your first loads just be careful, measure everything twice, keep everything in order, only one powder on the table or around your work area. Keep us updated your starting a never ending habit handloading that you will love.

Chamber your dummy round if it chambers well then your have no problem. If you sized your cases your will not have a problem, crimping is not part of sizing it's a feature more for the bullet than the case (adds a small amount of pressure on case mouth to bullet). Read over crimping in your handloading manual.. Crimping can remove a bell if one is there, I never crimp rifle rounds ever I see no need, and more times than not it will degrade accuracy and can cause other problems. Don't worry over crimping your rounds now, do read up on it studying in case you want to try it after you have become familiar with the basic reloading steps...

Again be careful, and patient check everything twice and only one powder where your reloading at one time.

Riddle me this?

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What powders do you have available before I can recommend a load for it.
I don't think you said.

Rc

xxxleafybugxxx said:

I'm using h110.
So about the crimp, .... If i don't crimp, then will the case mouth remain flaired? Isn't the the whole idea behind the crimp (that and to tighten around the bullet)?

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Most manuals will recommend that you crimp semi auto rifles. Like the AR 15. There is a lot of discussion and controversy on this subject. There is not a lot of recoil in either so the bullets are not likely to move.

Yes, you can lightly taper crimp to remove any flair if you did flair the case. It is crimping like you would a 9mm or a 45 ACP. Not a heavy crimp like a revolver crimp. Neck tension holds the bullet. The "crimp" is just to remove any flair.

Your full length sizing die will size the brass to size for correct bullet seating, and bullet tension. The bullet diameter is bigger towards the base, this is where you get your bullet tension.

Do read over crimping in your loading manual it can explain it much better than I can, in your case as a new hand loader crimping can cause a lot of problems leading to reduced accuracy, and I can't see any reason to crimp as your full length die has prepared your brass for bullet seating. Does the bullets your using have a crimping cannula ?

Maybe rcmodel can touch on this subject when he replies as I may be doing a bad job of explaining it to you...

edit to add: what reloading manual are you using ? I had a junky Lee manual, but he explains crimping perfect and shows lots of research even coming up with a factory crimp die using a collet. If you have a Lee handloading manual check the info about crimping.

One more try on crimping....

If your loading lead bullets or pistol etc many people or die sets flare the case mouth a small amount to ease loading the bullet without damage (case mouth would scrape bullet) also in military and hunting ammo may be banged around loose or as a precaution to make sure the case mouth is not flared which can cause failure to feed. When I say flared I don't mean slightly larger I mean flared open easy to notice, however with military ammo you can imagine a small extra step with so much ammo and reliability as is with hunting ammo..this is done on mass loading machines

I don't crimp my hunting ammo or ar15 ammo I have not seen a need for it. I did try a small project using lee factory crimp on 223 ammo in ar15 and bolt guns best I could say is it didn't hurt accuracy, but more times than not it degraded accuracy.

Yes, on your first handloads I'm saying don't concentrate on crimp, I wouldn't crimp at all and I never do on rifle rounds.

My question to you have you tried adjusting the die for amount of crimp, also what reloading manual are you using ? Does your bullets have a cannula for crimping ? After all my post I do suggest after you learn to handload that you play with the crimping die on a couple of cases you can size and crimp adjusting the die to understand what is going on, and how much die adjustment it takes to apply a crimp etc...

Study the section on crimping, and try to find the article from Lee on crimping you may find it on net, I know it's in the Lee reloading manual

Please get a manual, it is the single most important tool in a reloaders kit. I'm not just say this you can no depend on the net for reloading., you can use it as a source, but you should have at least 1 preferably 2 reloading manuals that teach the basic reloading steps necessary to load safe, dependable, accurate ammunition. It will also give you a standard to go by in your hands so to speak on both load data, and instructions.

Anyone can make a small mistake typing, or reading on the net.

xxxleafybugxxx said:

And from everythign I've gathered, 14.5 gr of h110 with 110 gr rn sp OR fmj duplicates the usgi military load.

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I used 14.5gn as a start load for Hornady 100gn SJ bullets. You should start at 14.0gn for a 110gn bullet, this is straight from the Hodgdon website. Work up from there.

Nothing wrong with you using H110( W296). But with things being what they are today hope you have a good stash of it. I also get good results with 2400 & imr 4227 which may be easier to find. I would suggest not limiting yourself to just 1 powder. Standard loads, nice thing about the carbine (it ain't brain surgery) readily available in all manuals.
I also recommend using Hornady's old 100gr SJ. Good economical plinking bullet in the carbine. But it is my understanding that Hornady is not making them anymore. I still see them at shows and pick them up when I can. Speer has its own 100gr "plinker' and is still available. Fun gun to shoot.