• You are using the old Black Responsive theme. We have installed a new dark theme for you, called UI.X. This will work better with the new upgrade of our software. You can select it at the bottom of any page.

Anyone own S&W 686 revolvers?

Status
Not open for further replies.
the 8 & 3/8" barrel is a little muzzle heavy.

attachment.php


murf
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0050.jpg
    DSCN0050.jpg
    103.9 KB · Views: 206
I'm a short barrel guy.

attachment.php


One is a 681 (4 inch is max for me), another a 3 inch US Custom Service 686, and the third a 2 1/2 686. Not long ago I also added a 2 1/2 686 'Lew Horten' special I got at a pawn shop for $500. I even have conformation it was just that.

Sometimes I like the Ruger GPs (I have 4 and 3 inch versions, both fixed sighted) better, but sometimes the S&Ws. Either one will do to ride the river with.

Deaf
 
I bought a 6" M686 in the mid 1980's and it was probably a few years later I traded to a now deceased buddy a old Yamaha Trimoto 3 wheeler for his 4" 686.
His 4" had some Trijicon red dot type of gizmo installed that was drilled and tapped to the top backstrap. It was done by a competent gunsmith. This red dot is a OGM or something like that they called it.
Over the years the Trijicon brightness had weakened. I contacted Trijicon and they didn't recommend recharging it. They had done a few and the results weren't real promising at best. That was years ago and maybe they have perfected it by now. I need to contact them again. I still have that red dot stashed somewhere around here. I took it off the 4" and reinstalled the factory sights.
I still have theses 686's and neither has been shot much over the years. I bet between the 2 of them they haven't had 400-500 rounds between them and that's probably a high estimate.
They are both the 6 shot models.
I'm a diehard Ruger fan and because I have these 2 - 686's I have never bought a GP100. Of course these are both the pre-lock models.
 
A no-lock 4" 686 is my house gun (loaded with 38 special +P LSWCHP) and my trail gun (loaded with Cor Bon hard cast 200 gr. lead flat points).

You cannot go wrong with a S&W 686.
 
Haven't read through all the answers, so sorry if I'm redundant.

I have the 681, which is the fixed sight version of the 686 they made way back. Mine has been a fine gun. I did buy it used, though, and felt I needed to buy some washers from Midway to tighten up the endshake. Easy to do.

If you buy an older L frame, however, keep in mind that they were recalled way back when to fix a problem that they had with the cylinders binding due to primer deformation that occurred with some ammo. The guns that have been in for the recall are marked with an "M" by the serial number, I believe. Mine was imported surplus, so it had never been in for the recall.

I never had a problem with it before, but when I shot some hotter .357 loads through it this summer, I noticed some minor binding issues. I sent it to S&W for the recall work, and it's still back there. I understand that once the problem is addressed, it doesn't reoccur, so no big deal. Something to be aware of if you're buying an older gun, though.
 
I believe the 686 is the finest production .357 now being made. To me, it's far better than the Colt Python as it's more robust and the star-to-hand fitting doesn't wear out as quickly. The Ruger Security-Six also was a great .357 to take camping and hiking because it wasn't such a pain to carry. The GP-100, though, not so much. In my view it's far too heavy out front. Ruger did this by cutting back on the steel in the grip, then adding it up front, where it's tough to control the muzzle and pick up on fast moving targets.

SW686_2c-1.jpg

This S&W 686 is a pre-lock model that was off the early lines (note stamped sideplate). In fact, it was one of the
last guns to have a stamped sideplate.


SW_Ruger_1.jpg

Here's a 686 later model with lock (top) and one of Ruger's incredible Security-Six revolvers. It
failed to be exceeded by the GP-100, which addressed and fixed every little design flaw that the
Security-Six never had.



°°°
 
Last edited:
I have a 686SSR with an unfluted cylinder (long story) and a superb action job.

Was that the SSR that came with the incorrect number of flutes on the cylinder, resulting in paper thin chamber walls?
 
Last edited:
Was that the SSR that came with the incorrect number of flutes on the cylinder, resulting in paper thin cylinder walls?
I believe "unfluted" means there are no flutes, but I'd love to hear the story.

In fact, if anyone knows why there are flutes at all, I'd like to hear it. I don't know whether they first appeared on single-action pistols to facilitate the handling of the cylinder while being unloaded (my guess), or for cosmetic reasons. The flutes seem to work well in loading and unloading d/a revolvers as well. I've gotten to the point where I like their looks.

°°°
 
I believe "unfluted" means there are no flutes, but I'd love to hear the story.

In fact, if anyone knows why there are flutes at all, I'd like to hear it. I don't know whether they first appeared on single-action pistols to facilitate the handling of the cylinder while being unloaded (my guess), or for cosmetic reasons. The flutes seem to work well in loading and unloading d/a revolvers as well. I've gotten to the point where I like their looks.

°°°
Yes I am aware what unflutted and flutted means.

Japle's gun, if I remember correctly, originally came with a flutted cylinder but with the wrong number of flutes. The result was that the spacing between flutes and chambers was incorrect and a few of the the chambers had the flutes positioned directly over the chambers, leaving extremely thin metal on one side of those chambers.

I be leave he sent it back and requested a unflutted cylinder as a replacement. Unless I'm remembering a different gun.

Flutes reduce weight, save materials, and I believe they help dissipate heat faster also. I could be wrong about that last one. As you said, manipulating the cylinder for reloads may also be a factor.
 
Last edited:
I still own a 686-3 which I bought new in the late '80s...

I picked a 6" barrel as it is a "woods gun" I open carry. Although it hasn't taken a deer, I have that in the plans for this revolver. It always seems I also have a rifle in hand when a shot presents itself.

Of all the S&W guns I own, this one has the best factory trigger. It came with square wooden grips (stocks) and is seen here with Hogue rubbery things on it. It now wears Altomonts of similar shape as the Hogues. The wooden grips were rounded a bit and now ride on my model 19.

Great trigger and even with full power magnums it is a pussycat.

Edmo

image_zps4740f2fd.jpg

image_zps704d9e2c.jpg
 
Last edited:
Was that the SSR that came with the incorrect number of flutes on the cylinder, resulting in paper thin chamber walls?

Yeah. The gun got a lot of attention a couple of years ago. The cylinder was from a 686+ (seven chambers) and was fitted to a 686SSR (six shooter).

IMG_7873.jpg

It took a little back-and-forth with S&W customer service, but they made it right.
I wanted to keep the original cylinder and they very much didn't want it floating around out of their control. I didn't blame them a bit.
 
I agree 100% with Confederate in post #35, the 686/586 is the best production revolver out there. I'm fortunate to have acquired an ex-police 686 with the "M" and I bought a new 586-4 back in 1996. The 686 is my house gun, loaded with the Remington version of the FBI load.
 
Yes I am aware what unfluted and fluted means. Japle's gun, if I remember correctly, originally came with a flutted cylinder but with the wrong number of flutes. The result was that the spacing between flutes and chambers was incorrect and a few of the the chambers had the flutes positioned directly over the chambers, leaving extremely thin metal on one side of those chambers. I believe he sent it back and requested a unfluted cylinder as a replacement. Unless I'm remembering a different gun.
With a handle like “460Kodiak“ and more than 3,000 posts I figured you probably did, but I also figured it was the best way to get the s story. I can't imagine S&W ever letting that cylinder get out. Btw, did they let him keep the old cylinder? It'd be great for self defense. Just put it in a sock.... :cool:

RON in PA said:
I agree 100%...the 686/586 is the best production revolver out there. I'm fortunate to have acquired an ex-police 686 with the "M" and I bought a new 586-4 back in 1996. The 686 is my house gun, loaded with the Remington version of the FBI load.
S&W used to put out the best-looking guns, period. And the early 686s are gorgeous! (So were the early 66/19s.) And one thing that made those early guns so easy on the eyes was the hard chroming of the hammers and triggers on stainless guns and the older cylinder-releases. Once it added the internal locks and the crummy rubber grips, and left the hammers and triggers their beautiful coffee and cream colors :barf:, well things have never been the same. (The company also uglified its 5906 9mm line of autos by adding cheap, plastic hammers and triggers and other black parts and even black lettering, all to give them an awful two-tone look. Still shot up a storm, but there are plenty of 9mm autos out there that shoot like the dickens, but are so ugly they should come in a brown paper bag instead of a box. (And we all know what guns I'm talking about.)

686.jpg


°°°
 
I have a 4" while my best friend has a 6" one. He likes the longer barrels (he even has an 8 3/8" 29), but I think the 4" balances perfectly. You definitely will want to handle both one with a long barrel and one with a shorter one. The difference is noticeable, and your preference may be confirmed, or you may want to switch.
 
Nice, dakota1911.

When I bought my 6" 686, a friend bought a 6" GP100. I have to say, if I wasn't so enamored with the 686, that would be my .357 of choice. You can't go wrong with either of them.
 
I have a 4" while my best friend has a 6" one. He likes the longer barrels (he even has an 8 3/8" 29), but I think the 4" balances perfectly. You definitely will want to handle both one with a long barrel and one with a shorter one. The difference is noticeable, and your preference may be confirmed, or you may want to switch.
Yes, but both have their place. Hunters and long range shooters will want the 6-incher, though the 8+-inch models should come with training wheels!

I just wish that the 6-inch barrels weighed as much as the 4-inch barrels. For people who carry their guns more than shoot them, underlug barrels are a pain. Why not make a 686 available with different barrel configurations?

°°°
 
Yes, but both have their place. Hunters and long range shooters will want the 6-incher, though the 8+-inch models should come with training wheels!

My friend bought his to hunt with, but he hasn't had a close enough shot yet. Mine's mostly for shooting steel at the range.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top