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Someone might be able to find an old Atlas or similar, for way below high prices, with collets and chuck. The most recent generations of people have zero to little interest in machines, even if they are not cell-phone addicts. If I pass, my wifey will gladly sell my machines for much below...
Besides my previous comment about the polyurethane finish, I suggest that waiting the entire spring/summer (for some oil finish) just might be longer that most might expect for a finish to fully cure. I have applied seven coats of the poly to a special gift I made to my wife, and it is just shy...
I have seen enough of this thread to offer my opinion: When one buys a factory finished long gun, the stock finish is never soft (at least during the last 50 years of my experience). The factories use finishes which harden within a couple days (if that long). They cannot afford to do otherwise...
Whatever you try, stay away from a Dremel, unless you have been been using them in industry (highly unlikely).
The advice for "safe-sided" files is very helpful. Those are files which do not have teeth on their sides. Won't find them in most hardware stores.
I couldn't find a reference to that regulation online, either. So today I stopped by my optometrist's office and asked them about it. They said such a law is not for the general population, BUT it does exist for people under the age of 18. And the recommended lens material for shatterproof is...
There is a federal requirement that everyone selling any product must provide a Safety Data Sheet which lists all the ingredients in the product. So one could simply ask that company for their online document and see what exactly is in that stuff.
Here in CT ALL glasses, prescrip or otherwise, MUST have safety lenses. Saves a lot of trouble (and probably some eyes). Mine are bifocal, with the lines. Guess I'm just old-fashioned.
I forget which, but Brownell''s or Midway had the best plastic one (which I bought) which has a couple precision V-grooves machined into the work surface. Works perfectly.
You're going to need more than just drill rod if you wish to do all those things you mentioned. For instance, tool steel bars, which won't require you to machine down a rod to get a rectangular cross-section. Plus, tool steel comes in many alloys to suit the job you are doing.
Because of my furniture business I have every size of Forstner, including metric. They go all the way down to 3/8", or less. The only limitation is the extension piece (and its diameter).
There is a slightly different offering that West has. It is called "G-Flex", and is their #650. It is much more resistant to flexing and vibration (as if that was ever a concern with their standard stuff). It comes in small bottles and mixes 1:1, which is a big plus. However it is more difficult...
Have you looked at the website for McMaster Carr? They have LOTS of stuff, primarily for industrial use. It's my go-to if I ever have a problem finding something. I have bought from them since the 80's.
If you have a four-jaw chuck (lathe) the jaws are independent of each other and have enough bearing surface to keep the barrel "straight". Then when you adjust the jaws do half of the indicator reading for the opposing jaws. Once you get close or "right on", spin the lathe at low speed to see...
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