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Here is my Shorty. I like to keep a conversion cylinder in it. I have done a few of the more popular mod to it, but most recently I did Pettifogger's hand spring replacement. Still needs some smoothing out, but a well worth while mod.

Yes. I have been loading 30 grains of Pyrodex RS, felt wad, and topping it off with a Big Lube El Paso Pete Ultra Gamer 45 Caliber 150 grain bullet. The bullet is about as tall as it is wide, so a wad and a slight compression works good for me.

Sorry I did not leave a link...:o

On a side note... I went to that Rand CLP website and they are providing me a free sample to try...;):D. Thanks Mike. (Great video as well :cool:)

Do you have a use for the '51 parts ? ;)

I have been loading El Paso Pete Ultra Gamer 45 Caliber 150 grain Big Lube bullets on top 30 grains of Pyrodex with a lubed wad. These bullets print close to the same as a round ball on a target, albeit I only shoot at close range :D.

Can a lube be too stiff to be effective? [My wife is laughing at my question :o] I have been using 50/50 bees wax and olive oil for a GP lube for my revolver wads. I found a spent wad some time ago and the lube was still for the most part intact and no evidence of the blast melting it. The gun...

What does this do for you besides a positive stop for the hammer. I like to use trigger stops in a similar fashion. Is it basically the same?

I had a new sight dovetailed in... I got the sight from Track of the Wolf. I also had to take some off of the rear to get what I wanted.

I loaded my Remington that way one time... the loading lever dropped each time like a Walker Colt, and it had a hell of a kick. Enjoy :D

I had a problem with bees one summer day. I took one of my brassers in .44 and made a square load of powder, wad, rock salt and another wad to hold it together. A steady shot worked every time.

It always read .45LC ;). I am looking at the Classic Lee Loader to start out with. I have been shooting cap and ball for some time now, so I know about lubes and the dangers of air between ball and powder. I want to get the best rounds I can instead of wasting time and money :).

Hello all, I want to get schooled up on reloading my brass. What are the best books to get started with? Thanks.

Thanks for the replies. I have a bolt gun in .270, lever gun in .30-30, several shotties and handguns... you get the picture. Obama/Biden are looking to make history again and with the momentum that current events have created, stupidity may ensue. I don't need an AR, but I don't want to miss...

Ladies and Gentlemen, As the title says, with all that is going down in our country, do I need to buy an AR before I can't get one? I have been looking at an NEF/H&R .223 single shot for some time and I would be happy with it. FEAR of what our current administration is capable of makes me...

The last two NIB brassers that I bought this year had handles that were oiled. :D

Thanks arcticap. I will be swinging by Walmart for some RS asap :D.

I got my boys a brace of Colt repo brassers in .44 for Christmas this year. I would like to experiment with some Pyrodex RS since I can get it readily at Walmart right now. Would a load of 30 grains of RS be too much? I know that 25 grains of Pyrodex P should be the max for a brass frame ;).

I put a brass pin on the trigger of my 1851 Navy in .44 to prevent excessive over-travel. I have heard of taking JB weld and building up the back of the trigger near the sear. "Reshaping" the bearing surfaces between the trigger and hammer can take the slop out of the movement. I don't remember...

Put your newly casted round balls in a can or plastic bowel and tumble them by hand for a while. You will notice that the sprue and any wrinkles will disappear. I just started casting my own as well and got this great tip from somewhere on a forum. I wish I could credit the source and thank him...