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I agree with PWC, I put a mark with a jeweler's file or shallow cut with a dremel wheel radially on the headstamp every time I trim the brass. I toss when the case has three marks and needs a trim, in case I missed a mark somehow. Figure this gets me 10+ loads with standard pressure and 6+...

So, I had a garage fire. The hottest portion of the fire was directly over a military surplus ammo can full of 45 auto handloads and factory loads. The aluminum on the motorcycle which was the unfortunate catalyst to this event was melted within two feet of the box. Inside the box the hot glue...

I was pretty sure that was going to be the answer. Thanks for the explanation of the burning process, that helps a lot.

I took some rabbit hunting a bit ago when i worked on a ranch, the owners didn't want any rifles as the rabbits were around the barn/house/equipment. Made up some in 45 auto and 357, no plastic cups but 7.5 grains of unique in a cut down/necked 308 case worked wonderfully in the 45 auto, and...

Quick question if anybody has experimented specifically with a rifle using standard primers behind H110 to run a slower burn rate for the longer barrel. I have experienced (and read) unburned H110 powder out of a Smith 66 4" using standard primers, and was wondering if a full 24" barrel (Puma...

My CZ runs ragged holes with Tula HP. They are designed for European steel exclusively, the dimensions are slightly different than CIP. Sightly smaller at the shoulder, and a different shoulder angle, just enough to screw with primer strikes. Never had a problem with cheap steel, have to neck...

Find some 32 h&r mag, pretty plentiful in the cowboy action crowds. These can actually be reloaded if you are using the Nagant dies to do it, so you aren't expanding and compressing the brass repeatedly. The H&R is just long enough to get some neck tension on the bullet in the tapered cylinder...

I might try the first. Thanks for the tip!

Haha, I have the first generation die set from Lee, basically a bastardized 32-20 set. I have to use the bullet seater twice to get the bullet into "uncircumcized cartridge" position. The first seat with the seater in the correct position to get the bullet straight in the case, the second time...

I can see there is a bit of good walnut under the ash, but not enough to make a sand down and oil approach worthwhile.

Pictures!!

Yup, got the thinker going...

I have always carried it with a round under the hammer. It has some type of integral hammer block, as the hammer wont push down onto a primer. As far as drop safe, I've never tried.

Will do when I get back home

I looked at some henrys when I got the itch for a lever action bigger than the Puma 92 I've had for a while. I liked the idea of the stacked magazine for the larger calibers, but they and the tube loaders felt like 2x4s in my hands. Personal preference, but I chose the 336 in 35 rem. I have...

That's an interesting thought, it would avoid all problems associated with fitment, metal damage, etc as well. Might actually get a really neat pattern with a light sand over the burned wood as well... any suggestions on making a cast? or just get it close then buff to shape? Or do you mean...

So I think I have finally decided to bite the bullet and replace the wooden portion of the grip on my 1918/55(?) bayonet. The Bayonet was in a fire 1.5 years ago and the original does not appear to be salvageable due to deep cracking and shrinkage. The blade steel appears to be good, still...

I use pachmyr grips on my 66, fills the hand nicely and absorbs recoil. I have a set of Marschal wood grips I ordered that I like as well, unfortunately the screw placement is not ideal on the 66 as it tries to go right through the mainspring :(. When i move the hole it will wear those more...

From my standpoint if the CCW (CHL, CCP, etc) is connected to your license in your state, I could see that as a bonified way of checking identity. The guy who stole your license/passport and somehow inserted his picture is highly unlikely to know that information. Double-check on identity...

Thanks Edarnold. That was what I was leaning towards. I have contacted Nikon about the repair (might as well) and will keep an eye out for a better scope. The suggestion towards fixed power seems like a good idea. The fixed (or replaced, as last time) scope might make it onto the varmint...