Wally I'd take the heavy grain.224s as I don't have any for my 1/7 twist. I'd also take the 30 carb of that is not too much for one person. I'm sorry I don't have any 44 supplies to trade.
I do have about 100 x 38 spls and some .40s that I don't need and can send them to you or some else to...
Please don't toss them in a pond, soak them in use motor oil or hit water to deactivate them and throw them away. Or do like I do and as others have mentioned, pull the heads for casting use, burn the powder or use it on the lawn, roast the primers, then scrap.
Use at your own risk! I will delete this post after a few days
Some data from my marlin 1894 16" in .357 using .357 cases:
Date String shot FPS Hi LO AVG ES SD Notes Cond Load
STRING 1 1
12-Feb 1 1 929 5.2 POWER PISTOL, HSM Brass, CCI SP, OAL 1.550"...
I've got a $50 used RCBS RC II and a Lee Classic Cast, I actually prefer the Lee, mostly because it always catches spent primers, the RC not so much. Other than that they are both strong and capable presses.
I'm just the opposite, bought the Lee "perfect" one, hated it, it constantly leaked powder no matter how I adjusted it, sits on the shelf maybe I'll try it one day for stick powder. Bought a used Uniflow, and man I love that thing. I use some flake pistol powders and even a large flake shotgun...
Tell me about it, I start drooling when I keep hearing of these guys getting 200+ free rounds of .357 brass. There needs to be a drool icon/smiley.:what:
What is the with all the smartreloader "plugs"? I see 4 on the 1st page alone from you.
Not trying to be rude, but this almost seems like spam, just because of the quantity of posts in a short amount of time, all regarding the same *controversial* manufacturer. That's all I got to say about...
158 is a bit long for 9mm, only factory 158 gr 9mm I know if is Fiocci, IMI (and you can't find the 158 IMI any more), and PRVI (which is normally OK ammo, but I have heard to stay away from their 158 9mm like the plauge). So that basically leaves you w/ the Fiocci. Hard to duplicate. Not to...
Ya that pretty much describes what I'm seein', maybe a bit more than you do though. I don't think I'd call it a negligible amount to completely discount it, it is obviously taking away from the brass when done over and over. I wan't my .357 brass to last, ain't like you find it everywhere like...
Ya when I look inside the Lee I can see the sharp "ledge", maybe I'll see if I can do a little polish work with a dremel before I get the Redding.
You guys have been extremely helpful as usual, thanks.
Gotta give you guys a nod and credit, you know what you're talking about. Mic'd the ones I fully sized: barely any neck tension, pulled em with my fingers, and drum roll..... .353! Surprised I didn't notice the lack of neck tension earlier.
The ones that I just kissed with the sizer had good...
Bullets are jacketed (SJSP) with cannalure so I want a taper crimp, and I just prefer it over a roll. Haven't tried seating and then crimping (2 steps) with the RCBS because I don't want to have to keep changing the seating stem depth for seating. That's what it would take to use that die in 2...
Didn't know a moderately hot load could bulge a barrel on its own? Thought that it is usually caused by firing into a lodged squib or one of those "detonation" anomalies.
I like Power Pistol for 147s and even have messed around with Bullseye, 231/hp-38, and Solo 1000 for quiet 147 loads.
OK, I usually don't trim my .357s, so I guess it would work how I want. I guess I should take pictures of my Lee taper crimp die and what it does to cases.
I did size a few all the way and a few that just started the mouth in the die. None seemed overly hard to get in and out of the die. Maybe I'll pull the fully sized ones and mic them to see if the bullet dia. was sized.
Sounds like that Redding taper die may be the ticket. I tried one from...
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