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I just use a cheap 3-drawer plastic shelf unit from Walmart. Rimfire cans go on one drawer, centerfire pistol cans in another and centerfire rifle cans in the last one.

If you were creating the firearm yourself, you would have had to put "FMI" in the manufacturer field.

For what it does, yes. Obviously an SBR is more versatile. The brace can rotate on the my KAK Super Sig tube - especially if it gets hit on the bottom where there's more leverage. Haven't decided if I'm going to hairspray it in place yet (as with bike grips).

My recommendation would be a SWR/Silencerco Spectre II with the Sparrow a close second. I stainless pin tumble my baffles to clean them and the Spectre II works much better with that cleaning method.

I have both SBRs and an SB15 brace. The issue for me isn't about doing the paperwork for an SBR but how long a 5320.20 takes to be processed and returned. I wish they had made 5320.20 an eForm for faster processing but if wishes were horses... Also, don't forget the cost of engraving a Form 1...

I think the general consensus is that they make a decent "bang for the buck" product but their CS sucks. I have a Kestrel 22 and there were some small machining issues that I needed to send back for warranty work but I was never able to get anybody to respond back to the online form I filled...

I ordered a bunch of M16 stocks from Firefly Arms for $15 apiece shipped. They were all in pretty good condition and the rack numbers cleaned up with a little paint remover.

Here's my lightweight. Model 1 Sales lightweight barrel on a slickside A1 upper (no forward assist, no shell deflector) with a 4 position collapsible stock on a Vulcan lower. Comes in at around 5 lbs.

Here's a review from AR15.com: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=2&f=28&t=143260

If you are going to California, you are pretty much screwed as far as getting an AR - unless you are military and then you can apply for an exemption. The best you are going to be able to do is a FAB-10.

You might also look into buying a CMP rack grade Greek for $295.00. You stand a decent chance of getting a good shooter. And at worst, if you need to rebarrel, it'll cost about the same as a parts kit plus a receiver.

ckyllo - nope, it didn't come that way, but all it took was a few quick swipes with a yellow Crayola crayon. :)

I picked up a used 20" v-match with the shaved/milled gas block and flip up front sights. The flip up front sights seem sturdy enough and have held zero pretty well. I did add an ARMS 38EXT rail with a set of half-inch risers and a pair of low Leupold QRW rings. The combination works pretty well...

How is the gas piston alignment relative to the gas tube? I wonder if that's causing your grinding sound. When you hand cycle your AK, does it feel relatively smooth?

Here's a Springfield 1911:

The Ultimak mount is very nice and stable. Also doesn't have to be removed to clean the rifle. Here's mine with an Aimpoint on an Arsenal, Inc. SLR-101.

If the slidestop is bent up, try sticking the pistol in a padded vice and then taking a wooden or delrin dowel and a mallet, place the dowel on the slide stop and rap downward on the dowel with the mallet. This should force it down enough to let the slide go forward. If the slide still catches...

OKO, Hakko or ATN are three that come to mind which would fall under the $200 pricepoint.

Here's a few pictures of my Ultimak setup with an Aimpoint Comp M on a Arsenal, Inc. SLR-101. I had a side-rail mount, but it never returned exactly to zero after being removed for cleaning. Great mount and cowitnesses with the irons in the lower portion of the scope.

The two that I will probably be sporting this summer are either a Kahr PM9 or Kel-Tec P-3AT. Luckily summers up here in Northeastern Ohio don't get too bad.