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Nobody in our household shot .22LR for almost eight years until recently. During that time we added a bucket and several bulk packs and we're not wanting for rimfire ammo . But we don't have 10,000 rounds. So we want to be prudent. Know what we do now? We take out our bolt action .22 rifles...

May I ask why it would be good for the OPs need? Thank you.

You might like the Comp M4s with the lower battery position.

I own a CompM4s, and a T-1 Micro and a PRO. They reside on my work/duty guns. For your stated requirements I would go with an H-1 Micro or a PRO.

If there is a used office furniture store near you, look at some of the incredibly strong commercial platforms you can buy for cheap.

Model 442 with Uncle Mikes Boot Grips.

I can tell you from first hand experience that the #36 HKS is not going to work well. My last duty/off-duty qualification I decided to give it a try and I learned that loading loose rounds was actually faster.

I, too, noticed the trigger. Adds a nice touch. And I am actually quite drawn to the refinish on it. That's a revolver I would be proud to own (and I've owned a lot).

I'm at work right now but will check back in the morning to see if anyone with a Standard Catalog of Smith&Wesson has provided you the information. If not I'll check mine and post it up.

As I said in my earlier post, and what Walkalong reinforced, is that you should try some GI hardball feed lip magazines. After shooting 1911s for a really long time it is my belief that there is just no equal if you are shooting ball or JHP ammo. JMB designed the gun for flat followers with...

If you just want to have more, look at Checkmate 7-rd magazines with the GI Hardball feed lips and flat dimpled follower. They are what I carry on duty, because they have been absolutely flawless.

I'm a cop in north Alabama, not far from the town in question. I am never going to disarm citizens of their firearms if they are not a criminal threat. Emergency, Disaster, Plague, Locust Infestation.... People need access to their guns. Folks in general peacetime have a right to them, too...

Hodgdon Universal Lyman 48th : Start = 4.2 @ 760-fps MAX = 4.7 @ 867 Speer #13 Cowboy : Start = 4.0 @ 765-fps MAX = 4.4 @ 846 Speer #13 Standard : Start = 4.2 @ 827-fps MAX = 4.6 @ 902 CLAYS Universal Hornady 7th : Start = 3.4 @ 650-fps MID = 3.9 @ 750 MAX = 4.4 @ 850

You are entirely correct... they are expensive. But for a true 358429 profile with a flat base and good lube these are the schidt.

Leadhead Bullets make a really dandy Keith 168-gr 358429 hard cast bullet that you can drive as fast as you wish. PMK357-168 http://www.proshootpro.com/ I have bought them and used them and they are superb.

Man, I really hate the situation you find yourself in. But if you ever find a solution I hope you post about what you found.

A four-inch blued Service Six is easily worth $375-$400 in todays market (and probably much higher than that if a panic buyer comes along) if it is in pretty good shape. Hell, I have a beater SS 4" that shoots like pants on fire and I won't ever sell it.

.40S&W 165 and 180s doing 1000-fps is pretty normal. Nothing wrong with shooting 10mm 180s at reduced velocity for general shooting and practice. I've done it, and it's very pleasant to shoot. But I'm too weird about finding all my 10mm brass, and if I am going to shoot 180s in that...

Because although it may be safe for 10mm if one is extra vigilant, Titegroup (and to a similar degree Bullseye) are FAR from what is considered to be an optimum propellant for such cartridges. It can be done, but you'll never launch a bullet at normal velocities and double-charges are always...

I've shot a crapload of hard cast 158 LSWCs over Unique (thru a 28-2 and a 686) and my Unique weight was 7.5 grains. Check published manuals or manufacturer web sites. Why are you choosing to use magnum primers? It is totally unnecessary, unless that is all you have at the moment. I took...