I too have an SSR and have gone through quite a bit of different grips. The Hogues aren't bad, but as others have said you will get the most comfort from a grip that encloses the back of the frame. I have a Pachmayr Gripper on it right now, which does enclose the rear of the frame. It's decent...
Great info guys, thanks! I'm already using the LNL measure with the RCBS linkage and mount. I'll pick up a couple of the Hornady powder dies and get going.
Does anyone know if RCBS sells the powder die portion of the case drop system separately? I'd like to acquire a few extras and set them up to be caliber specific with lock rings, make caliber changes that much quicker. Hornady offers the lower for their unit for separate sale but I can't seem to...
Ok. That's more about function than it is rust prevention and such. You need to make sure the frame rails and rail ways are well lubed. The old Model B's called for white lithium grease in these areas. The new Classics recommend the use of FP10. Mine came with a small bottle of it.
Correct, sorry I thought this was assumed and didn't need spelled out. The article was written by Venturino, I'm fairly confident that he's aware of the different crimps and their correct uses. I'm not aware of a source to purchase a 30 Carbine roll crimp, are you?
I have a new model Classic, and also had one of the original B models; I've never heard about soaking them in oil. It's not in the owner's manual. Can you post a link to the info?
Reloader Magazine had a write up about these not too long ago. The author reported issues with rounds not firing, due to too much crimp. The hammer impact was driving the cartridges forward into the cylinder instead of setting off the primers. Anybody else experience this with factory or reloads?
I have a 686 that I returned to S&W for a PC action job. It is very nice. As Old Fuff posted it is not the lightest trigger I've ever felt but the double action is very smooth. No stacking, no grit or hitches/stops. Smooth, consistent pull till hammer fall.
It did, however, take two trips to...
Slide mass is usually of concern for these conversions. I'm not familiar with the Baby Eagle, but it sounds like a compact/subcompact? From what I recall of Super conversions they were usually limited to 4"+ pistols.
Don't like hearing that. My own duty gun is a 357 M&P. No issues with mine. I assume they have tried different ammo to resolve the problem? How about aftermarket extractors, like APEX?
Try the same test in your bbls, but with a factory round. Compare how deeply the factory round chambers, compared to how deep your reloads go. If they both seat to the same depth, I'd say they're safe enough to shoot and that your gauge might be overly tight.
Another vote for the SIG P224. I recently played with one at a local shop and it is a very nice pistol. It also will work with full size P229 magazines, which in 40 I think holds 12 rounds.
I never use full wadcutters, sorry can't help you on that one. I suspect it would not cycle low power, bullseye type wadcutter loads. I have made up a number of 38 loads with 158g LSWC without issue. My current fave is a replica 33/44 loading with 2400 and the LSWC. Just about all the power of a...
Take a look at the new production Coonans, called the Coonan Classic. The new ones can run 38's and 357's from the same magazine, whereas the old model B's needed a special mag with a spacer for 38's. All that is required to shoot 38's in the Classic is a different recoil spring. The Coonan...
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