For about $20 at walmart you can get 550 new ones. Just run them through you .22 rifle and you will have a pile of nice used brass. Best part is they won't have my fingerprints on them.
I've never used either brand of primers but i have had problems with S&B ammo in several handguns. One is my PPK/S .32 auto which produces light strikes.
I use w296 in all my .357 magnum full power loads. Works great and very accurate in most guns. Never tried AA#9. Guess maybe i should get a pound and give it a try but w296 just does so well i don't realy wanna change.
NEF has the worst quility control on headspace out there. Your chamber is cut to long but you can fireform your brass and then resize without setting the shoulder back and you should take care of your problem. I had one in .243 that wouldn't chamber some brands of factory ammo because the...
Reloading steel shot is more trouble than lead but the big problem with reloading for waterfowl hunting is getting the loaded rounds sealed good enough to avoid moisture contamination.
Most of the handi rifles i've had shot ok. The .44 was the exception. Never could keep it on paper at 100 yards. Traded it off realy fast. Kinda feel sorry for whoever ended up with it.
Sounds like a nifty idea but i would load a few with light loads and try them. Blown primers are no fun and could be a problem with cases made that way. If they work that's great just be careful. Don't wanna see anybody getting hurt.
Don't know what kind of rifle you have but it sounds like you should get the headspace checked on it. Also what brand of cases are you using? I had the same problem once with some federal 7mm cases.
You can buy a lee reloading kit with a bench mounted press for what 3-4 boxes of factory 8mm ammo cost. It will last you forever. As for loading 8mm mauser IMR 4895 with 150-170gr hornady's is hard to beat.
I know your not wanting to use lead but the hard cast lead with gas checks doesn't put off fumes like regular cast lead bullets do and they shoot great in my rugers.
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