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Are you saying you had a squib and couldn't tell the difference between it and a live round?:uhoh: If so, consider yourself fortunate that it was the evidently the last round fired.

I know several people who use 11 to 12 grains of unique, any lead bullet, for a nice light load on the 45/70. Bonus here is that you don't foul up your chamber. They say they get a little over 1000 fps with 300gr bullets.

You could replace the trigger http://www.slickmagicguns.com/SlickMercantile.html

I assume you found this? http://marauder.homestead.com/files/tuning_m_1894.htm

My study showed that to be a weak extractor, releasing the shell too early. Is it always the last one in the mag? One of my Springfields was doing it. In reading it was suggested that on all but the last round the next round will help push the empty out the top when leaving the magazine. With no...

VTI are very good people. Call them first, I think you can send your part in and they will see if they match.

Colt SAA, 40 cal+ 1911 Luger S&W Model 10 Ruger 22 SA

Is your 45 a 1911? Why not consider a 22 conversion for that? About $300. Then you would be getting trigger time on your primary weapon. Just a thought.

Thank you, I was leaning towards overcharge. But who wants to admit to a reloading mistake!:cuss: By clocking do you mean that it is turned/turning slightly?

One of my 1911's, a stainless Springfield Loaded, recently had an out of battery discharge, or possibly an overcharged case. It bent the top of the magazine, blew out the bottom of the case, and generally sprayed burnt powder all down the magwell and slide area. We inspected the pistol and saw...

WITH R&D CYLINDERS!!!!!!!!!!! Truly, you are a Dawg!

Thanks, RC. That's what I was thinking. I know they sold these in sets, with three or four barrel lengths included as the JC Higgins back in the day. Just didn't know how precisely they were fitted. But you're probably right, fitting was probably "Well, it don't rub!":scrutiny:

Well, see RC, what it is is I was going on memory on the length. Sides we always add a little , don't we? On the price, I don't know where that 4 got off to, swear it was there. Have you ever swapped one of these? Think the barrel tp cylinder gap will be a problem?

Well, best I can tell there is no "torquing" required. The barrel does not thread in as in a normal revolver, just pushes in and is locked with a pin.

Picked up a really nice R101 the other day, nickle, 22lr. It has a 6 inch barrel, and was thinking of swapping it out. I see where Numrich has replacement nickle 2 5/8 inch barrels for $6 plus shipping. Is this a straight swap? Just drive out the pin, swap barrels , replace pin, or is the some...

One more area to check. I have a Uberti, actually several. On this particular one though I was having some miss fires. I traced it down to the pin that holds the firing pin in the hammer. It would walk sideways a little, dragging on the inside of the frame and slowing the hammer fall. I replaced...

I recently replaced the innards on a dozen welded mags with a kit from Tripp Research. Less than $8 each, new spring and their excellent follower. About 1 minute to change each. I know it shows $8.95, but when you buy 10 or more they knock a buck off...

Blue Locktite. Be sure that you don't get it on the shank of the screw, only the threads. There are part that ride on the shank of each of those screws, the hammer, the trigger and the locking bolt. I would recommend you back each one out several turns, apply the Loctite from the right side...

Thanks for the replies so far. Yes, I agree a good cleaning is in order. Yes, they are my reloads. But the original question remains. Why would the hammer fall when the trigger is pulled before the gun is in battery?

Shooting my Series 70 GCNM this past Saturday in a match. I had several failure to chamber fully, could be time for a good cleaning. What concerns me is that 6-8 times when this happened, the hammer would fall when I pulled the trigger. This was with the slide perhaps 1/8 to 3/16 inch from being...