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I just picked up a new one for $775. Nice wood, but not as nice as that. I would say it's definitely worth $75 more to know you won the CZ wood lottery.

A CZ 550FS in 6.5x55 SE. Now working to bend the stock up slightly for better cheek weld using a scope, and developing a good load using Lapua brass and Hornady 160gr. rn bullets. I had picked up an AG-42 Ljumgman, got intrigued by the Swede round, and, well,........

Problem taken care of. I received a full refund sans the usual PayPal fees. This gun still doesn't seem to shoot as I would expect as far as accuracy. 4 3/4lb trigger pull. The barrel locks up tight, both front and back. I'm just not sure where to take it from here. Does a match grade barrel...

I've found at times that when you near the point that things won't go much darker, you'll get some of this. I've never seen the whole work stay red however. Normally, the red just cards off leaving the black behind and you can't tell the difference. I've noticed also that replacing...

I'm not certain I'm clear on what you mean by "worked", but if I'm reading you correctly, the answer is no. You can cut them to shape and polish, but boiling will do very little if any good. Cape buffalo horn, that can be boiled to soften and begin shaping, but not antler. Luck, Jim

The articles by Gaddy were in the Winter "96" and Spring "97" issues. DGJ does sell back copies if they have them, if not you can probably Google other sources.

For finish, I would suggest Brownell's Pro Custom. It's basically BLO with some poly in it to help with moisture resistance and drying. Mix 50/50 with mineral spirits. You can come up with any finish you desire using this stuff, and the 50/50 mix is very user friendly. Luck, Jim

My apologies, I forgot to look up those articles last night. I will do my best to remember this evening. Meanwhile, here are a few things I do remember. The bone charcoal should be used in the annealing process before being used for case color. The best drop, as far as Oscar was concerned, was...

I'm just getting started on this, and I'm sure there are many ways to get decent color, but you might take a look at Oscar Gaddy's articles on this subject to get an idea or two. They were published in the Doublegun Journal some time back. I can look when I get home to give you the actual dates...

Your best bet is to get a starter kit set up for something around 20lpi, and practice on old,cheap, shotgun stocks. Scraps of wood, even walnut, generally don't give you the same feel for this type of thing. Luck, Jim

I appreciate the advice, but I don't see how I could be construed as a troll. I've helped others on this site, to the best of my ability, offer advice when I can be of help, etc. In this case, Mr. Serva seems to have a problem backing his product. Actually, I'm not certain that his problem...

Another update. It seems as though Bob has taken another look at the situation. He has asked for paypal info in order to reimburse me. I haven't seen the payment yet...., but it's sounding positive.

Just a little update. Bob Serva received my returned trigger kit on April 18th. I have proof of this delivery via USPS. He has since refused to acknowledge this return in any fashion other than to say he's "waiting to hear from the shipping ladies". I've even sent an e-mail suggesting that if he...

You'll need to define "older". I believe that many of the Colt semi-auto pistols were originally heat blued, not tanked or rust blued. The heat blued finish can be very closely approximated by nitre bluing at a relatively high temp, but it takes a skilled and experienced smith to acheive that...

The problem with not doing the repair correctly in the first place is that you then have the gunk you put there that has to be completely removed before you can solder it properly. There is no problem with driving to and fro these days, as those barrels can be shipped. The repair is simple and...

That repair, done correctly,[soldered], can be done easily and at a relatively low cost. Start playing around with screws and epoxy, and you'll wind up with a mess that becomes far more difficult to repair. No offense intended to anyone here, but epoxy? Not exactly the high road.:barf: Luck, Jim

A little update on this situation. Still no real response from Mr. Serva. I used an old Brownells sear jig to polish up the sear and, per their instruction cut the hammer notch down to around .030. This is on an old A-1 hammer that I liked the looks and feel of better than the original. I've...

Don't worry about it. You will get some very light rust, but no real pitting. When you're done, break the handle off a cheap cleaning rod, chuck it in a drill, and spin a bronze brush through a few times. Clean with a few dry patches, and oil. Good as new.

Dan, For rust bluing,[hand blacking], I simply use a heat gun at 500 deg.F and apply petroleum jelly. This opens the pores and adds good protection to metel that you have basically taken all of the oil out of during the process. No need in this case to neutrlize the acids and salts used to...

The recommended boil time is 5 min. I always boil for 10,[to be sure, to be sure], in DISTILLED water. Hard water can sometimes cause color problems. Also, your idea on using the stove for humidity may very well cause uneven rusting. The underside may rust much more than the top. You may prevent...