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If you are taking money for working on guns, you need an FFL. It doesn't matter how long you have it or how much it costs. If it is a gun business, then you need the FFL. Here is what ATF has to say about it. See number 1. http://www.atf.gov/firearms/faq/gunsmiths.html

From 2012 SHOT:

http://firearmsindustrynews.com/2013-shot-show-pictures/

There is a nice diagram of how to take down the gun in the manual. An Ultra can be taken down without a paper clip, the Pro cannot unless you change the guide rod to a std. Commander guide rod.

For 200 gr. plated SWC's I find an OAL of 1.250 with a .469 crimp feeds well in 1911's.

Mr, T, The grip safety discussion isn't about the claim and belief of a 70# trigger pull, or Kimber using cast parts or MIM made parts having burrs. We were talking about not removing the overtravel screw from production guns that come with them. Of course it had nothing to do with grip...

The undercut is the cut on the bottom of the blocking arm of the grip safety that the trigger bow is supposed to stop against in a GI spec gun. On some production guns, it is far enough back, so no fitting is needed on the "line," and it allows the disconnector to push back on the sear spring...

Kimbers and some SA Loaded models have the GS undercut back far enough to let the disco push back on the sear spring and take tension off the sear. I wonder if the mag catch was a little stiff after the 70 lb. trigger pull test. :)

I'd sure like to see that sear spring that could tension up to 70#.

Go to Wolff at gunsprings.com and order the XP spring made for the Kimber 4" models. It will be a few coils longer and bit stronger since the Pro size Kimbers are undersprung. The SKU is 32725 http://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto%20Pistols/KIMBER/Compact%20%26%20Pro%20Carry/cID1/mID32/dID413

None of that would be underpowered to cause this issue. Next time you go shooting stay aware of your strong hand thumb placement and see if it still happens.

Most of the time when a Sig doesn't lock back it's because the shooter has a thumb over the slide stop. Watch where your hands are when you shoot.

Kimber stakes the plunger tube and they always have. Maybe they forgot on this one if it wasn't. :uhoh: They have never and still don't use Loctite or a thread locker.

Titles aside, Ken Crawley is known in the 1911 world and well known in Texas. I've read lots of comments by happy customers over the years and can't recall anything negative, ever.

By my criteria, one could only be a "master gunsmith" in one or two types of specific guns. He may know other guns of all sorts but like a doctor, one can't be a specialist of too many things. A "master gunsmith" would be a specialist who not only fixes and makes things pretty but also can...

You could just ask if anyone has had any work done by "Name goes here."

Mr. T, on the clean ones I've seen it looks like it follows the angle of the ramp cut under the locator pad and looks like it aligns with it. They are done on a CNC and if the timing of the fixture or the arm moving is off, it could make that cut. But............I dunno. :confused: Another...

That part of the extractor should be further back than the breechface. The rim will never see it. I think it is a programming or fixture issue and they made a bunch. Since they work, they used them. I doubt they would ever say one way or the other. I figure that if it was intentional...

That was Kimber's attempt at an external extractor. They made those from mid 2003 to mid 2005 when they finally gave up after 4 different designs and went back to internal extractors. They seemed to work OK for the Gov't size models but there were many problems with the 4" and 3" guns. They...

Kimber had a run of these. It is indeed machined (CNC) and that cut was erroneously made when they made the bevel angle cut on the locator pad. They seem to work fine but I would keep a spare.