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I have one very similar. Although I am guessing, I believe it to be of India make. That would explain the British influence. My guess is that it was made for commercial sale as a functioning decoration.

Alumahyde works good but will leave a "crinkled" look but if that's not an issue it is really simple to do.

Your rust has pitted into the metal. Any removal of the rust will result in bare metal and look worse (in my opinion). If you keep it oiled that will keep it from getting worse but there really is not much else you can do other than superficial methods of cold blue

It's very hard to tell from the distant pics, but from what I see, the edges and letterings are sharp. Usually those take a beating during a reblue. Are you sure it's been done?

You might could try Numrich or Jack First. The 922a seems a bit hard to find but probably made the same part for other models. If you find something that looks close, just give them a call and they will measure the part for you if need be

That is awesome. Extremely useful when you can do it all in one machine

I hot blue guns as a side. I always like to see them in person before I quote. But I can tell yours is pitted pretty good. It may not seem like much but when you strip it down to bare metal, it really looks more severe than at first glance. If you are looking at having something nice looking, it...

Smith Gun in San Angelo

That's not quite accurate on the lubrication of bullets and the 03s. Take a gander at Hatcher's books and you will find some excellent info in there regarding all these matters. As far as greasing the bullets, this absolutely DID contribute to actions blowing up. It seemed that the mindset of...

I used vinegar to remove most finishes. I have had good success with AlumaHyde for a finish. It does not look smooth like anodizing but seems to be a good finish nonetheless.

A long time ago I had a Single Six that was dry fired a lot. It ever so slightly deformed the cylinder edge making case removal extremely hard. Don't know if that's the problem but worth checking out. Just took a little honing to remove the ridge and it worked fine

Sand paper with formed wood blocks specific to the area you are sanding. It's a moot point to ask which to do first as the sand paper will do it both. The entire gun needs to be the same grit on the finish or you will have various levels of bluing brightness. If you do park it then don't worry...

I wish I could remember better but I reblued one awhile back. I put a spring back incorrectly and the slide did not go forward without help. I disassembled and re did it and then there were no issues. The mag did not fall free on its own. As a fun fact, the bbl is reverse threaded...

Yes to vinegar and muriatic acid/water mix. I have left parts on 100% vinegar over night and have had no etching to speak of. The muriatic is definitely more powerful but if you rinse in water after you will have no problems. Either way it's not like your bbl is going to dissolve in a matter of...

I have a couple 9" SB lathes with the flat belt as well. I have found that the slipping of the belt has saved my machine from damage if I was trying to hog too much or otherwise got into trouble. Taking lighter passes alleviated that problem for me. One lathe I have has a newer automotive...

I shopped around over time and found all the supplies I needed at a quite affordable price. I use Christy salts and they are very forgiving. I read a lot and asked folks who had done or are currently doing it and I learned. I spent way more time than I did money getting into this business but...

I mean from the pics it looks like someone resleeved it with a barrel insert. I would have to look at my Remington to see if it looks the same but it appears that it might. If that is the case it would help explain why there is a chip out of the breach end, which is kind of an unusual place for...

Maybe the pics aren't accurate, but it appears that it may have an insert in the bbl? Either way it looks like it will be of little matter if the bbl is chipped a bit

I bought one a few years back and have yet to shoot the darned thing. Bought as a replacement so I didn't have to keep taking my HK out and risk getting it dinged up. That being said, I don't have a book but folks like Numrich have a schematic that could help if you can't find anything else.

If the trunnion and bbl are already headspaced, that will save you a lot of time.