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^^^ 358156gc But for light and medium loads I shoot them with no GC, over HP38 for target, or Blue Dot for mid range. H110 with the GC for my 100yd loads. Use nothing but 45/45/10 tumble lube. 2 light coats and no leading. Lead is COWW.

Out of my 1894 .357 most accurate loads at 100yds have been with 4227, but not that much more than H110. And 200fps slower. So 4227 isn't my carbine load. If you want actual numbers I can go look in my notes. I think I'm going to try some 300-MP but will be warmer weather before I can test.

I shoot 358156 all the time in 38 Special with no problems with no GC.

Work up SLOWLY. 1/2 grain increments. Might want to use mag primers for 4227.

+1 [emoji1]

The bottom of the riser that bells the case mouth is tapered. Thinner brass goes in further before engaging the riser, and hence, not as much movement. What's really freaky is comparing a .38 riser to a .357 riser or getting them swapped and trying to adjust it to work. My solution was 2 sets...

I've also found that the thickness of the brass makes a difference in how far the riser travels. Particularly when working with mixed brass.

I'm on castboolits too. Fact was I thought I was posting there . It's under size and had alignment issues. On top of it, it's my only 9mm mold, and all my 38 molds are too heavy. It's the 124 TL RN. I had fill out issues as well. I have 2 other Lee molds and they cast ok, but not as easy and...

I started casting about 18 months ago because of cost, I had more time than money, and had a source for a free 5 gallon bucket of wheel weights every 6 months or so. However casting GOOD bullets is harder than one might think. Like anything else it's all about learning something new. If you...

One of my most accurate loads is 358156 w/o the gas check over 3.8 gr of HP-38. Cleaner than universal. Just taper crimped, no Lee FCD. Bullets are COWW with a little tin added. In my marlin 1894 it's a great squirrel slayer.

Doesn't the seating die also do a taper crimp if set properly. It's what I've been doing on my 9mm cast.

I'm glad to see that 9mm is the problem child, and it's not necessarily me. My 38/357 casts work great. I think it might be time to Lee-ment my mold to increase the diameter. Fyi I have a friend in the auto biz, so free ww for me.

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I keep my 45/45/10 in a squirt ketchup bottle. About 8 oz in it and 15/20 seconds in the microwave thins it just right. 2 or 3 light coats with 24 hour dry time between and all is good. Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

Corn meal or walnut tumbling media maybe?

Exactly why I don't want to deprime/prime in a separate step. Messes with my rhythm, but so does primers not seating or difficult seating..

One of the PMC before depriming.

I don't generally clean primer pockets. However I did try that on a couple and it didn't seem to make much difference. I think I'm going to have to invest in a $10 Lyman primer pocket reamer. I'm going to try a chamfer tool on a couple and see if I'm just fighting sharp edges.

Yes, I've gotten them out and noticed this as one of the symptoms. Why I've cleaned and lubed the pin.

I do try wiggling the case. Sometimes that helps, sometimes not. Top 2 photos are the same case. I have this problem with 9 mm as well. I'm thinking maybe rounding the outside edge of the little cup? Or maybe the pin inside the little spring is bent a bit?