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When I used wads I punched my own out of cork matting using a hollow punch and lubed the balls before seating. Now i just use wheat bran and continue to lube the balls. Being a fellow UK resident I found it difficult to source Durofelt and cream of wheat so I substituted. I must say I prefer a...

Thanks for the quick replies, I'll measure the barrel length when I get home. The age of the rifle and the fact I'm in the UK would support your info Bart. Looks like I'll be using lighter ammo in her

Afternoon all, I've just picked up my first full bore rifle. It's an FN Mauser action, fitted with a Schultz & Larsen target barrel, all set in a nice (but slightly dinged) Monte Carlo style stock. I paid the whooping sum of £36 at auction for it. But after a little research it appears that an...

I have one and it's fantastic. I live in the UK and like people above have said it is the closest thing to a "real" SAA I can legally buy. I went to my local gun dealer wanting an 1858 and came back with a 1873, it was just THAT pretty! I always bench load it for (obvious reasons) and have...

I clean with moose milk (50/50 Ballistol/water) Lubricate and protect with Ballistol Ball Lube is 5:1 Olive oil to beeswax Cheap and works perfectly. Also for me, as I live in the UK, it's easy to get hold of.

That's some great work. would you ever consider shipping to the UK? All the best Dave

I have an Uberti Cattleman (cap and ball version) I was advised the twist rate of the barrel suits conical bullets better than ball. Lead isn't an issue as a relative is a lead roofing specialist!

I use .450 conicals that have been coated in home made bore butter with a cork wad or two between bullet and powder. The wads are simply to take up space as I shoot a light target load (18gr) So far so good

Thanks for all the advice Mike, I might up the powder charge a little to see what gives the best accuracy and POI. I just didn't want to beat up such a pretty gun by being a bit over eager on the powder! At least light loads are cheap ;-) Thanks Dave

I think about 25gr with conical and wad is getting close to full. I co worker suggested machining a thin plate to sit on the rear of the frame behind the cylinder to absorb the recoil. I might look into it in the future but for now I'm just loving shooting the thing! Thanks Dave

I have one and it's brilliant! They group really well, if not a bit low (10" off at 25 yards!) Our club chairman is a fantastic shot and he prefers it to his ROA! As I live in the UK it's as close to a SAA as I will ever get :-( . The only thing I've been told is not to load them up to hot as it...

After trying this out I found 4:1 made it too stiff (UK winter) I'll add another part oil to the mix and see how that plays. Many thanks for the recipe, should save me a good few £££

Oooh. I'd also be interested in a DIY version of wonder lube.

I find using an ultra sonic cleaner filled with boiling hot water, a tea spoon of citric acid, and a dash of dish soap as a wetting agent (reduces water tension) gets rid of rust even in the tightest of spots. The vibrations loosen up rusted screws too. Just make sure to rinse well after and oil...

I remove the nipples from the cylinder and drop them, along with the cylinder, in a US cleaner with a drop of dish soap as a wetting agent. While that runs I use Balistol/water to clean the frame then wipe clean with a soft rag. Boiling water down the barrel followed by a Balistol/water soaked...