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Yeah, lead is funny like that. I usually knock the hot bullets out of the mold into a bucket of water when casting. Then, when I powder coat them, I drop them off the hot tray into a bucket of water. This helps to retain some of the hardness so that you can load some to shoot right away if...

Next time you use the Alox, just load them as-is. You can then decide if you want to wipe the noses with a rag to pretty them up.

You don't need to use sticky Alox. Alox is typically used for bare lead bullets. I use the LEE case lube that comes in a toothpaste tube. It is a white waxy lube that you can dissolve 10:1 into 70% alcohol and use in a spray bottle. It dries to a thin, waxy film that mostly rubs off during...

I do the same thing. I found that the 70% alcohol works best. I bought the 99% alcohol once and the LEE wax lube wouldn't dissolve. I added some water and bingo, it dissolved. It does require a heck of a lot of shaking to get it broken up and fully mixed. I give my powder coated bullets a...

I use the LEE paste lube in a tube. Mix it into a bottle of 70% alcohol from the drug store and use it as a spray (10:1 mix). It dries to leave a thin wax coating. No need to remove after loading.

Definitely cleaner than wheel weights! I don't do ingots anymore. I just refill the melting pot as I go with the RMR lead straight from the USPS box it shipped in. It makes a little smoke, but not much to be annoying. The 60lb boxes stack easily on my garage floor.

I buy it online from them. There is a link right on their main menu at the top of the screen for "LEAD".

I have and use the Hornady comparator tool. You could also just as easily use an appropriate sized pistol brass over the end of the rifle brass to do the same thing. But, we all like having tools, so we buy the tools.

I cast primarily 9mm and some light 30-30 plinking bullets and then powder coat them. I do not intentionally alloy the lead to a particular formula. I'll throw some scrap fishing weights or whatever in the mix, but not so much at one time to make much of a difference.

I rendered many a 5 gallon bucket of stinky, smoky wheel weights. Now that wheel weights are pretty much dried up in my area, I just buy scrap lead from RMR. I drop it straight into the bottom pour lead pot. No more smelting and casting lead ingots. There is only a little smoke from the oil...

I setup to do a casting session or two in the spring and maybe again in the fall when the weather is mild. I cast up a year's worth of bullets at a time. This year I'm only low on one bullet, so I'll probably only need one afternoon to stock back up.

As others have said, keep a priming arm in it and the spent primer will bounce down and to the side. I have the aluminum version (Challenger Breach Lock) and it works very well. However, I no longer deprime/decap on the press. The bouncing primer sheds burnt dust all over at the base of the...

The lead bullets can be tricky. I first sized to .356 and got mediocre accuracy along with some leading. Then I tried .358 and accuracy improved, but had issues chambering rounds. I settled on .357. (Note: I powder coat the bullet, then push the coated bullet through the sizing die.) I then...

A lot of resources and energy went into making those cases. I figured the right thing to do is to find a way to use them other than just recycling them.

No, I do not change the powder charge. I have a nice, light target load with a powder coated LEE cast TL-125gn RN bullet that is mid-range on the powder charge. When working up the load with this bullet and powder using normal cases, I tried a few different COAL. I figured the stepped cases...

I reload the stepped brass cases and haven't had any problems. I typically sort them out and load them all together as a batch. Then I'll then use them at a range where I expect to lose my brass.

Things that have solved difficult sizing of 9mm brass on my LEE PRO4000 (LEE's 4-station progressive press) 1. Clean the sizing die 2. Lube the cases 3. Bulge bust the brass. (This was a game changer) I bought a bulge buster kit from LEE and use a LEE 9mmMAK Factory Crimp Die. Remove the...

When I started wet tumbling with SS pins (lemishine and AAW&W), I tried different lengths of time, hot and cold water, and different amounts of. I found, with my setup (small HF rock tumbler), that hot water and 1 hour gets me super shiny brass. Hot water and 30min gets me clean & semi-shiny...

I have trouble metering Clays out of my LEE PPM. I ended up using a hand dipper and scale to weigh every charge. It is slow, but I have time.

I like clean brass for the main reason that it is clean. My hands and equipment stay nice and clean when I reload. My presses require less cleaning and maintenance. True, it is not necessary for a functional reloaded round. Clean brass is necessary for me because I dislike the alternative.