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I suspect I've used every brand of cold blue in the civilized world over the past 50+ years, and the best I've ever seen is called "G96". Simmons and Jerry's sells it, or you can get it from the manufacturer. It gives a deep-looking color but the best thing I lke about it is that it lasts! Bob

Marco: If you want to visually observe trigger creep, here's how. Cock the hammer (on an empty chamber) and pull the trigger back through the 'takeup' until you feel firm resistance. You are now attempting to pull the sear from under the hammer hooks. If you look at the trigger junction...

"They" say don't lube the sear crown because the lube will attract combustion debris and engrave on the metal, causing a rough letoff...and they're right. However, if you use something like Militec or FP10, it'll work just fine.

My recommendation would be for the Ruger. A little trigger work is all it needs to be an excellent shooter...even for BE competition. I won the PacFlt match using one and Jim Clark won the National Championship at Camp Perry using an old Mk I. I've only had 2 of those Cieners cross my bench...

Ruger trigger pull weight is controlled mostly by the angle and polish of the sear and by the height and polish of the hammer hook. It also can be changed a bit by the trigger bar spring...which is in the kit. I've installed about a dozen or so of those kits and they usually leave the pull at...

On this training strokes recommendation. Just make real sure your partiular pistol will actually depress the slide stop to release it when you slingshot the slide. On lots of 1911's on which a recoil buffer is installed, it won't work. Why? Because the buffer prevents the slide from moving...

'Nuff said about wear/damage to the sear mechanism. The primary thing I don't like to happen when dropping the slide without a loaded magazine is that all that force from the recoil spring is placed directly on the slide stop pin and on the rear of the lower barrel lugs. Do that routine enough...

I'm a retired 'smith and dealer. I've sold a ton of 1000's, and a few Loadmasters over the past years and there's one fix I always do to the 1000's before they leave the shop...well, two, actually. I get a "tack" (small nail?) that's .500 long by .040 diameter with a .092 diameter head which...

It sounds like you moved the top of that frame feed ramp forward a bit. I'd recommend you check to make sure you have about .030 setback between the top of that ramp and the bottom of the chamber. BTW, if you want to really cure that feeding problem, see if you can get one of Virgil Tripp's...

You can get a piece of steel about 4" long, 1/4" thick and 1/2" wide, come back 1/8" from one end and make a hacksaw cut about 1/4" deep into it. Then round off the corner above the end of the cut so the piece will fit in between the lips okay. You can use this to shape the lips on most mags...

That's an excellent diagnosis, Boats. Measure the length of the top part of that disconnector (from the top of the square hole to the crown) and then compare it to another one. I suspect you'll find a big difference and if so, replace that rascal.

You may be right, Curt. This certainly wouldn't be the first military contract job I've seen that turned out to be garbage. I still have one of those barrels in my parts bin and I just took a look at it...really ugly!

No Curt, that's not what I meant. Out military ordered a ton of new barrels hard-chroned in the bore to prevent...or forestall...wear from shooting lots of FMJ hardball rounds. Most of the ones I then saw after shooting lots of rounds showed evidence of mucho peeling and rusting. Apparently...

Curt, I've handled thousands of military 1911 45ACP barrels that were plated inside the bore. I don't know when it started (I started 'smithing in 1950) but I still see some once in a while...and they're usually pretty ugly! Most military bases that have an armory will still have some of these...

On the first part of the extractor (aft of the claw) there's a little hump that usually rests against the tunnel for the extractor. If that hump is a tad too high, it'll keep the claw from keeping pressure on the rim and will allow the round to move forward to the ledge and rearward to the bolt...