He's talking about the extra steel spanning the area below the barrel in front of the ejector. A feature that IMO serves only a visual benefit. Others may argue it dampens the barrel, adds strength/integrity and puts a little extra weight up front to counter recoil rise and improve follow-up...
Cool. So if your focus is on the ammo, get yourself a good chronograph and have at it (a competitive archer should have one anyway - spine deflection, DW, KE, fps, even regulations... are all factors that benefit from one). You won't be able to be definitive about anything without one...
Let’s just not worry about gas leakage… If after testing and tweaking ammo, you have the optimal results for your equipment and components, do you care? Point is, your loads will be developed for performance and gas leakage isn’t bad or good. It’s a fact and one that is outside our means of...
I almost agree. In fact, it is about 700 rounds to break even (reusing brass once) but that's considering a press more along the lines of a 550B Prog. Ammo cost is closer to 30%. For me, when I shot a lot, that was one day.
Reloading - get into it and never look back.
None of the comments in the quote above can be substantiated, nor are they accurate. At best the statements above is an individual's subjective opinion. Like most of the concepts in this thread. The opinions may work for you, or may not. Reloading depends on numerous factors (equipment...
This is a decent topic - I found it interesting that many people get to a point where they lose interest. Not interest in shooting per se but lose interest in making the effort or time investment. I am always interested in shooting but its been a year since I have been active. Just getting back...
While some of the concepts mentioned in the thread have relevance in some capacity or another, in practice the details introduce more complexity and confusion than benefit for recreational and handgun reloading. It makes for interesting discussion perhaps but little in terms of real-world...
Ok.
Take a loaded cartridge, put it bullet down on a piece of wood, give it a firm push and measure COL
Pay attention when sizing and seating the bullet, is the effort consistent across all rounds
Use only good brass preferably your own and use a taper crimp
If you want to measure...
Sounds to me like you are in the right ball park. How are those loads working out? If you have a lot of room in the cylinder you might try .327 brass (Starline rocks) and work it up. Getting the bullet closer to the forcing cone is good.
Not much else I would do aside from N310 powder. The...
:scrutiny:
Anyway, Zen what gun are referring to in the original post? Chances are you want something on faster end of the spectrum (N310, Titegroup, Bullseye). A lot of slower powder in the casing will certainly give you a significant fireball in a 2in barrel. Bullet weight plays a role in...
Are you saying efficiency equals accuracy, or maximum pressure equals accuracy or both/neither? Notwithstanding case integrity or unsupported area - for autos, "Safe" is circumstantial depending on many factors. Calculations have their place, more so in l/r bench shooting as far as I am...
Cool. A numbers guy :) Calculated but not measured - don't see how you can measure burn completion within 3%. Nonetheless seems like a good starting point (vs ladder). Since this focus is on pistols and for the most part similar hand guns will spec out closer than long guns, what is your best...
Exactly.
I am not at all surprised. Powder energy is not dependent on burn rate or the type coating/retardant used. The chemistry of the powder itself varies and is what produces the energy. This is why I suggest experimenting with a variety. 100% burn, 70% burn, etc. is not a factor that...
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