Without pictures its hard to say but I would offer that if they were bad enough to post about it on here then they are most likely junk like others have said.
I have found that you can mix up wad designs/lengths to a degree but the differences between straight wall and tapered hulls makes enough of a difference that you do not want to try it. Having a blooper and getting things stuck in your barrel are not worth it cause free wads. Wads are cheap...
Quality, price, and availability, in that order for my purchasing. These days you might have to choose C or D choice because it's the only option in stock. Back to choice A when supplies are back to normalish. The bonus is occasionally you find that the new choice is a better alternative than...
Yep! Time for a review of your loading procedure to dummy proof things. You need to figure out what actually happened. Might be a bad brass or might be a double charge or even a high primer. I bet double charge though.
I use a loading block and charge 50 at a time then look at all of them...
My thinking is the extractor holding the head of the round in place so the short length is not noticed and will fire. Kinda lile shooting a 9MM in a 40 cal. There the extractor holds the round from falling out the barrel and into alignment for the firing pin to strike.
Just because the round...
OP, as I have stated previously I appreciate your tenacity on this subject for the greater good of the reloading community. A lot of us just reload spent brass over and over without a worry. I was always of the mindset if it chambers and is a safe load choot'em. Probably relying on the extracter...
They are one of my go to reloading suppliers for the past 8 years or so.
Another for surplus supplies is Pats Reloading if they have what you want it usually is a great deal. They used to have lots of pull down stuff for sale but I have not checked lately.
Great idea OP! Thank you for offering to share your hard work with others here. I presently do not 3D print but have observed that a lot of the members here do. I am sure this will be helpful to many members.
As luck would have it I purchased 8 kegs of propellant and15K assorted primers the August before Covid happened. Have not had to purchase anything other than bullets since. Can't believe I timed that as well as I did. Looks like I might be at least a couple more years before any purchases. Can't...
Yeah! A dollar a round or so is what the minimum prices are around here. These days using what I purchased around 10 years ago I can load a box of 20 with premium bullets for around $5.00.
If you can find a Sierra 170 grain FP bullet and some 3031 you should be set as those two seem to be...
Well a little Jethro Tull, Pink Floyd, and Led Zepplin all played on random/repeat makes my background music filter smile. Just not too loud for what I am doing.
I have keg of Trail Boss that is missing less than half a pound. Might try that too. First I gotta get the pistol though.
This is basically a fact finding post to see if I might be better off trying something different than I already make and if so what to buy and try.
When doing this kind of work investing in standards makes a lot of sense. Not usually worth the cost for a one off build though. Hope the OP figures out the problem quickly.
Having just recently gotten into the AR building mode all this is fascinating to me.
Kinda like big boys tinker toy sets.
In relation to my previous post I use a universal decapper on my brass I plan on reloading at the time of sorting and inspecting, when first handling them. Then clean, store, and eventually process to reload.
Trying to make my process clearer.
Me, I use the old style Lee hand primer or the Ram prime on top of the press. I have gotten into the habit of putting half a tray of primers at a time into the tool. It seems to have less problems than a full 100 primers at a time.
I got my pins from Pellets LLC years ago before they stopped selling them to reloaders in 5 LB bags. I will find the size as mine don't tend to stick in flash holes for me.
Just a suggestion from a longtime reloader. I find dip short and use a small spoon to shake the propellant onto the scale pan is much faster than trickling. I use a 1/4 teaspoon metal measuring spoon like bakers use. It takes a bit to figure out how to shake/tap the spoon to meter it out but...
I use a Dillon media seperator and fill the tub full of water after wet cleaning with SS pins. I SLOWLY rotate the basket in the water filled media tub. Around and around mixed with back and forth rotation for a couple minutes at minimum. Change the water and do it again. It's a combo rinse and...
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