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I have and it didn't work well for me. Start at 28.0 and work your way up. I ended up using H322 with 52 SMK and 60 Berger Varmint bullets.

Nanook...I'm still not following you as to how your holder works and how it keeps the case from spinning? You just turning the quill into the ***?

Thanks!

Walkalong...the insert was made with a small carbide boring bar. The stock was an old SS barrel. I bored the shoulder angle for 223 and made the same body taper. A reamer would have been much much easier, but didn't have it at the time, LOL. I mainly made it to do bulk LC for a 223 Wylde I...

I made a clone of the WFT. Cost me $10 for a bearing and material I had on hand. Oh, added a USA 4 flute coated(not the one pictured) endmill that cuts like cutting butter? Probably have $20-$25 into it all...

Carbide and a lathe will cut a die. I've successfully cut the top off and bored out the shoulder on several Forster dies to make a custom ring die(sizes base only). The ones that i cut were only harder on the outer surface area, but carbide had no trouble breaking the surface. After that, my...

I've had success with the Walton tap removal tool. http://www.waltontools.com/products/remvtap.htm

Very nice...definitely different seeing one on an AR. I love old Unertls and Lyman Super Targetspots...

I'm using it in an AR with 77gr Sierra's. Hodgdon prints a yearly magazine with all their load data printed in it. Head to you local reloading supply shop and see if you can pick one up. Very handy to have the print version...

I haven't shot it yet, but there will be a noticeable difference for sure. I have a few loads to test in the next couple weeks...waiting for a break in the weather.

Yeah...that is true! I guess the the underlying story would explain the reason to buy one. As you well know, 304 is kinda gummy to drill. I broke a #3 carbide counter sink bit and a HSS bit starting the holes, lol. The carbide bit has been used a ton and on its last legs, same with the HSS...

Not your conventional AR brake, but will tame recoil better than 90% of the tacticool brakes out there. Made from 3/4" 304 stainless. All my long range BR target barrels wear Harrell radial brakes. In the end, I should have spent the $30 to get a radial brake from Harrells. On manual...

The ones with custom knobs were machined by me and they thread on. The factory savage handle is bolted into a jig I made, dialed in, machined and threaded. Knob is machined on the handle after threading while still in lathe. The one piece handles are reshaped factory target handles.

Looks to me like an adl For that price, I'd jump on it no questions. Send the Leupold back for a check up and will be good as new. As for the rifle, excellent price to start a custom build off of. If you don't want it, I'll take it off your hands for $275 :)

Very unique 49 Willys! My dad has a 49 Willys Jeepster Very nice dubbleA. I've done stuff similar for customers as well...

I use the Hoover die. Bottom line, it works for long range, 500+ yards. How well, just depends on what bullet you point.

Here is the spider I made to do barrels on. The barrel is held in by 4 brass tipped 3/8-24 screws and there is a spider on the outboard side as well. Note: the action is screwed on to fit bolt nose clearance when I took the pic.

Mine shoots really well. I have a Weaver V16 mounted in Burris Zee rings.

I have yet to see a barrel that the bore axis is concentric to the outside. Any good smith knows this and will dial in the bore to make any attachment concentric with it. If the outside of the brake needs to be tapered with the barrel for a seamless look...the outside of the barrel gets dialed in.

I would not say there are any secrets. They just seem to use quality components. Any experienced, precision minded handloader can do the same thing or better.