I carry the same thing year round. I know it works in my carry gun and I'm not going to go through the trouble of checking another just because the seasons change.
I don't change every (or any, really) time a new whiz-bang bullet is introduced either.
Having a round the functions 100% in your...
My variation on the solution is 25% ATF, 50% Mineral Spirits, 25% Acetone.
I've been using it for at least a dozen years. It's cheap and works very well. Sometimes the acetone will evaporate out in storage but that's easily remedied by just pouring a bit more in.
Am I the only one who opened this thread to see if it was another One Shot lube story?
I hope you've got the case out with the good advice given. But I feel compelled to ask, what lube was (or wasn't) used here?
I don't read it that way at all.
My dad is a WWII vet and retired from the Air Force Reserves. He's basically had free health care ever since which has included heart surgery, back surgery, a hip and two artificial knees. He makes no apology for the care he earned and neither do we...
After sizing all my .223 brass is dropped into a Lyman case gauge. The ones that show to be too long are trimmed. The ones that won't drop in are sized again or (more likely) the extractor burrs are filed from the rim. No case makes it to the next reloading step without passing my case gauge checks.
I chuck a Hornady reamer in a drill and remove crimps about as fast as I can pick brass up from one bucket and drop it in another.
If you want to swage offer cwal64 $50 for his Dillon swager. Sounds like his is gathering dust now. :)
I agree with the others. "Cleanest" is jacketed or plated bullet on top of a proper charge of powder. You're going to be very hard pressed to find any combination that leaves your gun clean after firing.
If your revolver is hanging up I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest it's not crud, but...
I'd say it looks good for another 1000 rounds or so too.
My guns aren't hospital-clean before shooting. I don't worry much about how clean they are after. But then I don't have any guns that exhibit function problems with my annual cleaning ritual.
In light of your last post there is nothing we can do except comment on spelling. It seems you want to map out how you reload. We can't say whether or not you illustrated your method correctly.
That said, in section "B" I think you mean "Deprime, Resize, and Expand". Case lube shouldn't be...
My gut feeling is no.
Target bullets aren't designed with any expansion need in mind. The lead hardness is of no concern and may vary as will jacket thickness. Your modified bullet might expand but it could just as easily break apart or stay together like a FMJ.
After reading that I'd be suspicious of all the "second hand" primers. How do you know any of them are actually what's supposed to be in the box? They may be spilled primers that were reboxed and put on a shelf in the back so they wouldn't be sold...
If you feel you must crimp invest in a LEE Factory Crimp Die. You can mash the case mouth as deep as you want into the bullet without collapsing the shoulder back.
I have several that came with die sets and they worked well. But the only rifle loads I still crimp are for my lever guns.
Or get a cheap single-stage press to deprime on and don't worry if it gets grungy. Or put a pistol decapping pin in your drill press and decap over a 1/4" hole in a piece of hardwood. Wouldn't need to move them in and out of shell holders that way.
I've been depriming on all my presses for...
Since .45 Colt takes a large pistol primer using rifle primers really isn't an option. Use standard primers for the 14k loads and magnum for the 25k+ loads and you'll be fine.
Large rifle primers may not seat below flush and would give you all kinds of problems you don't want to deal with...
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