1860 Army questions

[Guy de Loimbard]

A large group of us braved the cold and snow earlier today (yay michigan weather) and went out shooting. Among other guns I took my Pietta 1860 Army, and today I had a lot of fun with it. I managed to get through about 60 rounds today, I fixed the cap jamming problem it had. But now I have different problems!

After 50 or so I ran into a problem with caps not firing. I ended up having to bring it home with two cylinders still loaded with powder and a ball, that was a pain but I got that fixed. Looking at it more it appears what happened is something loosened up and now the cylinder has excessive endshake, and when the hammer falls it is pushing the cylinder forward instead of popping the cap. I can't drive the wedge in any further, it is up against the wedge retaining screw as is. Would it be fine to run the gun without that screw and tap the wedge in a bit more, or should I just break down and buy a new wedge? Are there specific signs I should look for to make sure I didn't wreck the barrel and/or the cylinder pin as well?

 

[madcratebuilder]

Look to see if you deformed the wedge or the slot in the arbor. If it's the arbor you well need to weld it then file to fit. If the wedge just replace it. What brand is the revolver?

 

[sltm1]

You might check to see if your arbor is bottomed out or not. Take the bbl and turn it sideways, then slide it up the arbor. It should stop exactly were it would meet the receiver when properly installed. If not and it travels further, that means the arbor's not long enough and creating slop. You can either weld metal on the end, or shim with washers to fix the problem.

 

[scrat]

by any chance is this a brass framed. sounds like it is

 

[Guy de Loimbard]

This is a Pietta 1860 steel frame. I can't see any obvious signs of deformation on either the wedge or the slot in the arbor. I tried the barrel sideways test, and the barrel has an extra 1/8" or so of travel, so apparently my arbor is too short. Am I going to need to stack 1/8" of washers on the end of it, or try thinner ones and just keep adding until the cylinder gap is correct?

 

[sltm1]

I would stack 1/8th first to see if that is exactly right. I'd also have some thinner ones for fine tuning. Remember, when you pull the bbl out to where it's supposed to be, you're going to have to work on the wedge slot to make everything meet again (weld at the rear and re shape at the front). I can send you the email of a great smith who specializes in cap and ball revolvers if you want to job the work out.

 

[Hellgate]

Make sure the arbor is solidly affixed to the frame. It sounds "shot loose". You can remove the wedge retaining screw and hammer the wedge in farther but that will not close a large cylinder gap. If you pull back on the cylinder and there is a LOT more cylinder gap then the arbor has pulled loose, the wedge slot has stretched, or the wedge has been crushed. I have pounded wedges back into shape when crushed but a new wedge is much better.

 

[Guy de Loimbard]

It does look "shot loose" but I'm still not sure what part of it gave up the ghost. The arbor is still solidly affixed to the frame, and I can't see any obvious signs of deformation on either the wedge or wedge slot. Bear in mind this is my first C&B so I may just be glossing right over it. I'm going to put a new wedge on order as soon as I get the money because that looks like the cheapest easiest possible fix, and if that doesn't work at least I have a backup wedge.. sltm1, I'd appreciate it if you'd PM me that email in case I end up needing it.

 

[madcratebuilder]

Looking at it more it appears what happened is something loosened up and now the cylinder has excessive endshake, and when the hammer falls it is pushing the cylinder forward instead of popping the cap.

In order to close up the barrel to cylinder gap you well need to remove material from the bottom of the frame at the barrel lug. The spot with the two locating pins. Then you fit the arbor lenth. You want the arbor to bottom out in the barrel lug about .001-.002 before the barrel lug touches the frame.