1897 Stock cracks

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ParagonXL

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I have an 1897 Takedown that has seen better days. The receiver extension is soaking in hopes to free up the adjustment ring to tighten the barrel up. It looks like the barrel has been cut at some point (I notice a "30 full" on the barrel by the extension yet the barrel only measures around 22") and the inside is not in the best of condition but should be fine for a shotgun.
Stock number matches the trigger number. The receiver number matches the receiver extension.

I cannot tell if it is the original finish on the stock. The grip area looks like an orangeish tint to the finish but the rest does not. There are areas of the finish that look to have been sanded down at the cracks from the old repair. but I assume it will have to be redone in order to get the oil out of the stock (I think a tung oil finish would look better anyway)

The issue I am looking at right now is the cracked stock (round pistol grip style). I was hoping for an easy glueup however that was crushed when I noticed what looks like old glue in the joint (was able to scrape some out but cannot get that deep into it)
There looks to be a oil inside where the receiver tang goes when I pulled out the dowel in the picture so I assume that is the cause for the failed fix (our just a bad fix to begin with)

Do I pull apart the crack as much as I can to clean the old glue out and soak it in turpentine to clean the oil out? I'm almost thinking to crack it all the way off but I don't know how that would turn out with the grain direction and where the cracks are heading.

I was planning on drilling a few 1/4 holes on either side of the tang hole down the length of the cracks and use a walnut dowel to help strengthen the joint but I think I should try to get the old glue out first.

There are a few other cracks in the middle of the stock from what I assume is an over tightened tang bolt (the washer was coned which would force the wood apart so I will flip the washer when I reassemble) Also another crack at the upper plate screw hole that has glue gooped on the end but those aren't moving like this one is.

I know there are new stocks available for around $60 but I figured I might as well try to save this one if I can.

Scrape the finish off, break the crack, remove the glue, soak in turpentine, dowel it and glue up with Titebond?

Any advise is appreciated. I can get other photos if needed. Thanks!

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There is no possible way to get Titebond glue all the way down in the crack unless you break it clear off and start over again.

I would try Hot Stuff thin CA adhesive.

Wrap the stock with rubber surgical to close the crack as tight as possible.

Then apply the thin CA to the crack.

It will wick clear down to the bottom, old glue and all, and set up instantly.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...hesives/hot-stuff-instant-glue-prod13081.aspx

rc
 
That's a though. I have used that stuff before on guitar frets. Hobby or wood places usually have it (got mine at Woodcraft) Man does that stuff flow.

With drilling a hole along the crack and using a dowel to reinforce it that would actually help squeeze the titebond out the crack (like a plunger.. no where for the glue to go but through the crack)

My issues is I think the crack is too dirty for anything to work in it as it is now.

I may use the water thin CA on the cracks at the center of the stock to stabilize that.

Will get some better photos of the crack and post.
 
Old oil soaked wood is a problem very few adhesives can overcome.
But especially water based wood glues.

(Thin CA doesn't seem to care!)

I have had great success with these in the past when nothing else worked.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...repair-pins/stock-repair-pin-kit-prod617.aspx

Perhaps not pretty, but they Do work when nothing else will if you must save the stock.

Again, wrap the stock tightly with surgical tubing to close the crack, then drill & screw them in, followed with thin CA.


rc
 
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Third photo shows the glue between the cracks. It seems to easily peel off the wood. I'll wedge it apart more later and see what I can get out.
Thanks for the link on the repair pins.
Good thought on the surgical tube. Expensive stuff (although a lot more expensive at the hardware store than Brownells). I may try rubber binding bands from the guitar supplier.

I think I will see where I can get with the barrel adjustment sleeve first. Been soaking for quite a few days with no signs of luck. Waiting for Kroil to come in stock at the local gun store to try that.

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Wood Stock Repair

Drill the holes, 1/4" maybe to big, inside the stock to get fresh wood. Forget the wood dowels. Fill the drilled holes with runny liquid ACRAGLAS. Work it down the hole with a tooth pick. Do it in a cool room, 60, so it doesnt harden super fast. Easy on the harding agent. Do NOT buy the putty type. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-bedding-adhesives/acraglas--prod1033.aspx If the drill went thru or connected to the cracks, it will run to the outside, as it should. I put a light coat of vaseline on the outside of the stock to keep the Acraglas from sticking. The Acraglas will seep into the pours of the wood, making the stock stronger than it was originally. Good luck.
 
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Wood Stock repair

Wrap the stock before the Acraglas hardens. The Floc is not used for this type of repair. A modified needle is used to measure the correct amount of resin and hardner, before mixing. Needle can be used to inject the bedding compound into holes. StockRepair_zpstddaebv2.jpg
 
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I have a 97 buttstock made in 1899 that has the same crack starting.

But newer style [like 1934] do not have the crack forming.
 

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You might lightly sand of the finish to bard wood. I suppose you could soak it in alcohol filled bucket for a couple of weeks (outside), then let dry. That should get the oil out.
 
Before the latest pics I supported rcmodel's advice. Now, not so much. Having made a LOT of furniture and used every conceivable type of adhesive in many industries, I consider that stock gone. Kaput, dead. Replace it, even if it must be a custom-made one.
Only other option would be to saw out the cracked area and laminate in a new piece of wood to fresh old wood (old wood not contaminated by gun oil).
 
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