1903-A3 question

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OleBreaktop

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Is it possible to buy a smaller aperture for the 1903-A3 rear sight? If so, where?

Also, I'm not happy with the trigger pull; lots of creep and then a rough pull to fire. Can this be improved?

Thanks
 
Is it possible to buy a smaller aperture for the 1903-A3 rear sight? If so, where?

It is the smallest aperture on any military rifle I have come across. I have not come across aftermarket replacements.

Also, I'm not happy with the trigger pull; lots of creep and then a rough pull to fire. Can this be improved?

First thing to do is buy a new mainspring. It will increase the trigger pull weight, but often it will "crispen" the final pull.

Your trigger is a two stage; the first stage has a lot of movement. As it should. That first stage is pulling the sear down so the final stage has just a little movement.

A two stage trigger is safer than the modern single stage "over ride" trigger. There is all this metal to prevent a sear override. You can literally bayonet and buttstroke someone with a direct pull two stage trigger, and it won't override. On some single stage rifles, just dropping the butt 6 inches to the ground will cause a sear over ride.

If putting a new Wolff mainspring in does not get rid of movement on the final stage, try swapping cocking pieces. Assuming you have extra. The final solution is stoning, and you need to search the web for instructions.

You will mess up the first sear/cocking piece you stone, so buy extras.
 
Is it possible to buy a smaller aperture for the 1903-A3 rear sight?

I've had a couple of rifles where I've thought a smaller aperture would help my sight picture. Here's what I've done...
Put a piece of tape over the back of the sight, (closest to your eye), then mix up a tiny glop of epoxy. I use black. Dab it into the sight aperture and let it dry. When dry, peel off the tape, and drill an appropriately sized hole in it. Viola!
 
Is it possible to buy a smaller aperture for the 1903-A3 rear sight? If so, where?

A smaller aperture is not always the wise thing to do. It does not make the rifle more accurate. It cuts the amount of light reaching the eye and hastens eye fatigue. If you are shooting bullseye targets, the proper size aperture should allow you to see a small band of white around the black bull.
Let your eye do the centering of the front sight automatically as it is more 'qualified' than you are. Look 'through' the rear aperture without 'trying' to center anything and place the top of the front sight where you want to hit on the target. It should come 'automatically' as was intended. If you think too hard about it you will mess it up.
 
Triggers...

on military rifles tend to be rough and two-stage, for the reasons indicated by Slamfire 1. Now, on MY '03-A3, and for that matter my 1917, well, they both sit in sporter stocks, and I'm not going to be bayonetting nor buttstroking anybody with either of 'em.

For hand-to-hand combat, I'd want something lighter and handier, anyhow--The M1 Carbine comes to mind. Not that I'll be doing any room-clearing nor trench warfare in the forseeable future.

But, back to your trigger question: When I first got the Springfield '03-A3, almost the first thing I did with it was to install a Timney trigger. And, BOY, vive la difference!!

The Timney is made specifically for several models of military rifles, and is a single-stage trigger with very little creep and a clean break. Trigger pull is adjustable. Although I was a starving college student at the time, I felt that the Timney Trigger for my rifles was a necessity. Still feel the same way.

So when recently I got a Yugo M-48, the first modification I did was to install --guess what, a Timney trigger.

BTW, these triggers install with a screwdriver, and require no permanent modification of the rifle--well, mebbe a little inletting inside the stock, depends on the rifle model. Rifle looks no different from the outside, in any case.

Good luck with your quest. Please keep us posted. Pictures are nice.
 
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