1911 Barrel Link and Reliability Improvement

[Overkill870]

I can tell from some researching of previous posts there are some 1911 experts on this forum. I need a little help.

Backstory:

I bought a used para ordnance single stack 1911 a few years ago. I've used and abused it pretty hard in that time. I am starting to experience the 3 point jam pretty regularly. I know that there is some long overdue maintenance contributing to it. What I don't know is what was done this pistol before I bought it, I suspect some Bubba'ing.

First I decided to replace all the springs. I went with Wolfe springs of the standard weight except the recoil spring which I chose 17 lbs. I noticed that all the old springs are significantly shorter than the new ones, especially the mainspring (which looks like it had also been cut).

Next, I noticed that the old extractor is pretty wonky, so I just decided to replace it. Unfortunately it is a para power extractor so that probably explains it. I got the EGW HD oversized extractor on order:
http://www.egwguns.com/index.php?p=product&id=1541

Now, the barrel link. I read the "1911 Clinic. The barrel link" topic on this forum and learned a lot. I just want to make sure I am on the right track here. I understand a long barrel link can contribute to the 3 point jam. I also noticed that in lockup the lower lugs or not in contact with the slide stop pin, the barrel link is holding it up. For the hell of it, I removed and measured my barrel link and found it to be .288". I went ahead and ordered the .278" and .283" barrel links with my extractor order.

Questions:

What is the correct course of action for making sure I have the correct barrel link installed? I am thinking I will install the standard .278" link and see how it cycles, I just don't want to cause damage if for some reason this is not the correct size link.

My ultimate goal is to make the pistol utterly reliable.

I can post some pictures if necessary.

PS. I know the magazines can be a source of failure to feed. I am addressing the magazine issues but I knew that there were some deeper issues outlined above.

 

[Red Cent]

Go get some Aleve and read this.

http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-56380.html

 

[Overkill870]

Well I followed your advice and went back and read it again. So much information to absorb! This post a believe answers my question but may pose some more questions. I just need to roll it around in my head a little more.

Going to a slightly shorter link has one distinct advantage. It can reduce
a slight stem bind condition during the feeding stroke.
Whenever you run
into a failure to return to battery, and you notice a crescent-shaped mark
on the case just below the mouth, you have stem bind. By going to a
slightly shorter link, you delay the barrel rise for a few degrees in the
arc. When the round is stripped from the magazine, it hits the barrel
throat at some point, and this causes the barrel to move forward. When
the barrel moves forward, it also begins to move UPWARD, due to the
link's influence on the barrel, when the barrel rides the link. The longer the
link, the faster it swings upward, and the higher it will be in relation to the
barrel's forward movement. It's a mechanical ratio. Think of a pole vaulter
when he sticks the pole in the vaulting cup as he races toward the bar. The higher up on the pole his hands are positioned, the faster he will rise,
and the higher he will vault. He is the barrel riding the link.

If your barrel is riding the link, and you want to make the pistol feed
more smoothly...try going to a slightly shorter link. There is a limit to
how MUCH shorter you can go. To find it, remove the bluing from an old
slidestop pin, and color it with machinist's layout fluid, or a felt-tip marker.
Install it through the link with the slide and barrel on the frame, and
leave the arm hanging vertically. Leave the recoil spring and plug out of the slide, and push the slide fully rearward. Push the barrel down and
back into the frame and hold it there with moderate pressure. The slidestop should swing freely without binding. A very tiny bit of bind is
okay, but ideally, it should swing free of its own weight. If it binds, remove
it and see where the bluing is removed. If bare metal is showing at the
front, the link is too long. If it's at the rear, it's too short.

Blueprint specs call for a center to center length of .278 on the link. I've
found that a .275 link can be used in most production pistols. This is
the essence of fine-tuning, and helps us to understand why some pistols will feed almost anything, while others are finicky about the overall cartridge lengths. The link plays a part.
-1911Tuner

 

[BBBBill]

Link length is very important to get right. Too long or too short are both potential problems. A major caveat with a shorter link is that the barrel can stop on the link instead of the VIS (Vertical Impact Surface). If it does the link will eventually break. Too long and you can cause problems with upper lug clearance. Slide and barrel lug damage can result.

 

[Drail]

Does the three point jam occur with the bottom rounds of the mag or top rounds? Or is it random? The first thing I would look at is the magazine springs. How old are they?

 

[Overkill870]

I am addressing possible magazine issues. I want to know more about the link because I know for a fact that the link is holding to barrel in lockup rather than the lower lugs. According to the old posts above, that is not desireable. I just wonder of swapping out for a shorter link will cause other problems.

 

[edwardware]

I highly suggest getting Jerry Kuhnhausen's 1911 shop manuals, 1 & 2. It's like reading all of RC's and Tuner's posts distilled into a book. Prepare to have your mind expanded!

Buy them here: http://www.gunbooks.com/catalog.html

 

[Wireman]

I think everyone here would agree that pointing a finger at one specific part is a waste of time. You can't just do things that are on someone's list and claim that you are improving reliability. Start with your particular gun and define what it does or does not do. Then get a very good idea of why before breaking out the files and stones. One easy way to get some free information is to blacken the frame ramp and barrel "ramp", shoot for a while, and examine where the bullet makes contact. One common reason for a 3 point is that the bullet is hitting the barrel "ramp", pushing the barrel forward and upward too soon. There are other reasons for it, most often a combination of things. Post your findings!

Wire