1911 issue: anybody ever use a brownells kit to crimp a plunger tube?

[1911Tuner]

HotHead FUff

*sigh* Fuff...We're just gettin' old and grouchy, and when we see parts
that oughta last 70 or 80 years break before the guns get 2 boxes of ammo through'em, we and and:banghead: and
hijack threads on gun forums...

FWIW, when I stake one in, I add a dab of J&B weld to the legs
and a smear between the backside of the tube and the frame.
That puppy is gonna be there when the Iceball Theory comes to
fruition.

Iceball Theory:

In about 7.8 billion years, the sun will burn out and die. When that
happens, the Earth will be nothing but a tiny ball of ice hurtling through a dark, empty space...and nobody's gonna give a rip whether that tube stayed put or not.

Cheers!

Tuner

 

[silent one]

Buckskinner,

You just gotta know when you get 1911Tuner and Old Fuff to latch on to a thread, you're in for the ride of your life. You not only get the best possible answer to your question, you get a few belly laughs thrown in for good measure. That's one of the reasons THR is such a great forum.

good luck, and be safe.


SILENT ONE

 

[kimbernut]

Brownells plunger tube tools

Just let those good times keep on rollin' in. Amen to the great forum!

Buckskinner, don't hesitate to call Brownells. They have a very knowlegable customer service staff and are really straight-shooters.

phone: 800-741-0015 www.brownells.com

 

[Bill Z]

I use this tool which is a rmake of a military armorors tool. It works well, but you need to insure you don't crush the tube, even with the tube support and reinforcing block. Retail on it is about 58.00 from Brownell's. It does work well if used properly.

Now this tool by Gun Runners, also available at Brownell's, is probably a better tool for the casual user. Dave can give you more insight on this tool as he was provided one for evaluation and used it to stake a few of the new Caspian/Sig style frames with plunger tubes. It considerably less money and is 'safer' to use for a first timer. Yes, sometimes you can re-invent the wheel. You would need a plunger tube support with this still, but you can use a properly sized drill bit for that.

In the event you slightly crimp the tube or end up with one that is out of spec, you can purchase a plunger tube reamer set for 15.00 and this will clean them up inside. There are two sizes for the diffeent sized holes.

Now, here is the super duper secret no one want to admit too, so don't tell anyone. Be very careful not to install the plunger tube backwards, believe me, if your not paying attention or not thinking about it, it's not to hard to do.

Let me add, it's not a bad idea, in fact I highly reccomend you cleaning the surfaces and using either Devcon 2609 or loctite 609 anerobic adhesive, which are both sleeve retaining compounds designed for cylindrical adhesion, to aid in the staking process. Some manufacturers, like Springfield, use this in place of pinning ejectors in the frames. I don't agree with that usage myself, but it does work.

 

[Buckskinner]

Now we're cooking with bacon grease!

I went with the vise grip tool.

And you answered my questions re: cleaning and adhesives.

Muchas Gracias Amigos!

 

[Dave Sample]

Interesting. I have never had one come off that I have installed. I use acetone first and Green Loc-tite 640 and they are there for the duration. The Raod Runner is about $30.00 from Brownell's and is the best tool I have ever used. The tool I use for the inside bevel of the plunger tube holes is very expensive for such a small bit, but a carbide 1/8th inch bit in my dremel served me well for 20 years. I love all of the conversation you guys have over such a simple problem. I never apply heat to 1911's anywhere. Soder is a very crude solution.

 

[Dave Sample]

Some pictures from one of our Online 1911 Lessons on how to do things MY WAY.

 

[Buckskinner]

Closing the loop, er, crimp...

Just an FYI on how the crimp jig worked.

I cleaned it all up, and applied a coat of J&B Weld to the tube and to the frame.

I crimped the tube (be careful the crimper is centered in rivet!) no problem.

I tooled the J&B (which is a pleasant steel gray color) to a nice fillet. Turned out fantastic.

I think I'll change my name to Ol' 1911 Tuner-Smith-Guru

Thanks for all your input and help.

 

[Dave Sample]

It sounds to me like you did a great job! I am glad you had a good result. I have been hooked on 640 Green Loc-Tite for a long time but realize there are probably better ways to do most things. As long as it works, it's the Way! Keep up the good work!