1911 problem slide jamming

[niki]

i have a 1911 1918 vintage which used to belong to my step father , the slide was jammed, i used the information on thr and was able to free it , after freeing it i am able to get it to slide if i cock the hammer back before trying to rack the gun what could be the other issue causing this.

 

[jrmiddleton425]

There aren't that many parts to a GI 1911. Replace the recoil spring, mainspring, sear spring, sear and disconnector, also, possibly the hammer and hammer strut. It's only necessary to replace the hammer if you can pull the trigger, and get the hammer to fall with the thumb safety engaged.

 

[texastele]

You might try cleaning everything and lubing it before you start buying a whole lot of stuff.

 

[45_auto]

Best thing you could do is take it to someone who knows what they're doing, rather than screw it up by taking advice over the internet. A 96 year old 1911 could possibly be a relatively valuable gun (if you don't screw it up).

 

[CWL]

Sorry, but I've got to ask: have you first unloaded the pistol?

Now, are you experiencing the "jam" when the magazine in the gun? If the magazine is in, is it loaded with bullets?

 

[larryh1108]

It's easy to detail strip. How does it slide with a bare frame? How about when you add just the hammer assembly? Add the sear and disconnector and see how it slides. Add the barrel and see how it slides. Add the recoil assembly and see how it slides. Something in there is causing it to bind and by adding one thing at a time it shouldn't be hard to find the source.

 

[230RN]

How's the firing pin stop (part 22) looking? That's the part in the back of the slide with the rear of the firing pin sticking out slightly and is what pushes the hammer down when the slide is retracted. To remove it, cock the hammer and push the firing pin in with a small rod or a ball point pen point. It's supposed to have a rounded edge on the bottom for the hammer to ride down on.

The firing pin stop can then be removed by sliding it downward, but watch it because as soon as it is removed, the firing pin will spring out and possibly get lost. Or worse, hitcha in the eye.

The second thing to look for is that the safety isn't disengaging correctly somehow. There's a detent hole in it with which the slide stop plunger engages and either the hole or the plunger pin or its spring might be worn sufficiently to keep the safety in position --either "Safe" or "Off." This plunger is contained in the little tube above the left grip.

The third thing to check is that the disconnector isn't partly jammed in its hole, or that the slot in the slide which actuates the disconnector isn't burred or something.

The fourth thing to check is that the barrel link isn't broken or too worn to let the barrel unlock from the slide reliably, but this does not sound like what it is from your description.

The genius of the 1911 is that it's a very simple mechanism, designed to be stripped and maintained in the field without tools --which is the genius of the design. There are a lot of field-stripping instructions available on the net and unless you lose a part, it comes apart and goes together again quite easily without risk. (Unloaded and no magazine in it, of course.) Military specification ("milspec") parts are readily available.

Here's a sample. I didn't watch the whole thing, but it's only a sample:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAAH9Rq-dkM

However, five'll getcha ten that just a detail strip and cleaning and proper lubing will solve the problem, per Post 3 by texastele .

Terry, 230RN

 

[1911Tuner]

after freeing it i am able to get it to slide if i cock the hammer back before trying to rack the gun what could be the other issue causing this.

If the hammer thumb cocks smoothly, it sounds like you're just having trouble overcoming the mainspring when you rack the slide.

If the hammer is rough or hard to cock...there's whence the bug nests. Maybe a little rust in the mainspring tunnel or even a broken spring.

There aren't that many parts to a GI 1911. Replace the recoil spring, mainspring, sear spring, sear and disconnector, also, possibly the hammer and hammer strut. It's only necessary to replace the hammer if you can pull the trigger, and get the hammer to fall with the thumb safety engaged.

Let's not start changing what may be original/correct parts on a collectible 1918 Black Army Colt.

And the hammer falling with the thumb safety engaged isn't a hammer problem. It's a thumb safety problem.

And it can probably be fixed without replacing the safety.

niki...If you need help with the disassembly, sing out.

Understand that those old Colts are soft...and with an unknown history/round count...it's not a good idea to shoot'em a lot beyond proving function and maybe a magazine full on your step father's birthday.

 

[230RN]

^

If the hammer is rough or hard to cock...there's whence the bug nests. Maybe a little rust in the mainspring tunnel or even a broken spring.

Or, to go into more detail, the part of the disconnector which is cammed up by the three-leaf spring could be grooved or rough, so the spring can't let it down.

There are a lot of little details like this which could be the cause. But with a little "mechanical sense," the problem should be obvious in a detailed strip-and-clean. For that matter, the disconnector groove in the slide could be worn so the disconnector won't slip down again.

Let's not start changing what may be original/correct parts on a collectible 1918 Black Army Colt.

I agree only partially with the idea of not replacing parts in an "original." If you have to replace a part to return it to serviceability, I would do it, myself, but keep the "old" parts stored away. But that's just me, not being a "true-blue collector." If it don't go bang safely and reliably when you want it to, it ain't a gun.

After all, the 1911 is designed to be eminently repairable in the first place.

Terry, 230RN

 

[1911Tuner]

Or, to go into more detail, the part of the disconnector which is cammed up by the three-leaf spring could be grooved or rough, so the spring can't let it down.

If that were the case, the hammer's position wouldn't matter. The slide would stick regardless.

I agree only partially with the idea of not replacing parts in an "original." If you have to replace a part to return it to serviceability

And I agree...but let's at least not start changing things until we find out whether they actually need to be replaced.

 

[g.willikers]

It sounds more like an operator problem than a gun problem.
As some have suggested, niki should have someone else try it, before messing with anything.
Most of the advice is going way over board, especially for anyone not familiar with a 1911.
When in doubt, listen to 1911Tuner.

 

[1911Tuner]

Still waiting for more detail before this can be diagnosed.

niki...Have you checked to see if the hammer moves through its full range smoothly?