1911 Recomendations:

[sprice]

Should I get a springfield G.I. stainless, a Sprinfield Mil-spec stainless, or a dan wesson rz-45 heritage? Is the heritage worth the extra cash? I'll probably get new grips, maybe new sights, and I'd replace the mainspring housing on the dan wesson to be curved.

http://www.springfield-armory.com/armory.php?version=15
http://cz-usa.com/products/view/dan-wesson-rz-45-heritage/
http://www.springfield-armory.com/armory.php?version=10

I just want a fun shooter. I want it to feel as good/natural in my hand. I'm just wondering if I need to throw more money at it so that I can have that. I'm also looking for reliability and accuracy (handguns arn't the most accurate guns either so I'm just looking for same hole groups at let's say ten yards at least?) I want good function, feel, and fit. I could care less about finish and how it looks cosmetically. I'm gonna beat the hell out of it so I just want a gun that can take it even though it may not stay lookin pretty.

I think what I should be asking is why is there a difference? What does the DW have that the springers don't? And why does it have those things? What function do they serve? Is it worth the extra money for a DW or should I spend the money I'd save with a cheaper one on ammo or something for the cheaper 1911 or other things?

 

[CWL]

Those Springers are on the lower-end of the spectrum and are just "base" pistols (nothing wrong with that), while the Dan Wesson is considered a "semi custom". Just not a fair comparison.

If all 3 cost the same, then the DW naturally. If you wanted a barebones shooter, or base gun to add-to over time, then either Springers would be great.

What do YOU want if for?

 

[atomd]

I have the DW Heritage. I bought one of their "blemish" models for $779 last year. It was worth every penny and then some. The factory sights on it are pretty good...the front is a trijicon. I think the Springfields are pretty good pistols, the DW is just nicer all around. I put about 75 more rounds through mine today and it always puts a smile on my face.

 

[Oro]

That's kind of an apples/oranges comparison as CWL pointed out.

Your question is basically: "What stainless 1911 under $900?"

You can search the forum for "which 1911" and find all the opinions you would like. But it's usually best to buy the gun you want to start and not buy a cheap gun and then slowly throw hundreds more at it.

1) If you want a mil-spec 1911, look at the Springers, used Colt 1991A1's, etc.

2) If you want a customized gun with a certain safety, sights, etc., look at the enhanced Colts and higher end offerings from Kimber, SA, DW, S&W.

 

[africamagical]

i love my colt xse, got it for 825
had a smith smooth up the trigger pull on the 80 series

 

[sprice]

I revised it; is that better?

 

[JTQ]

My recommendation is the Colt Series 70 Reproduction in stainless steel.

 

[Oro]

My favorite quality/price/performance value nowadays is actually with Colt. I think they have an edge on Kimber and SA right now. I think quality wise DW, S&W, and Colt are about all even (excellent), and Colt has a slight edge on price vs. DW and about the same as S&W, but without the controversial external extractor and warning-out-the-wazoo S&W stamps all over their guns. I think you should look at all of those makers pretty hard to see what suits you.

A gun I really like now is the Colt Combat Elite - it's an XSE series gun like africamagical mentioned. It's also two-toned blue/stainless so you may not like that, but they do offer all-stainless ones in the XSE line and the 70 repro like JTQ mentioned.

 

[smartshooter.45]

i wouldnt recommend a Dan Wesson if your gonna "beat it up". it would be reliable and accurate but alot of what you are paying for are little refinements.

it sounds like you have no need for that.

 

[atomd]

Colt has a slight edge on price vs. DW

Colt uses a few MIM parts and has a plastic MSH to save money. They are good pistols but their fit and finish is a step down from DW also. These are minor details but you get what you pay for. If it's a knockaround gun, I might look for a used Colt that no one has toyed with (one without the stupid duckbill). I don't mind knocking around my DW a little bit....it can handle it and I'm never going to sell it anyways.

 

[weregunner]

There is the Taurus PT1911 to be considered.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=503273

If one does not own a PT1911 or had extensive experience with one plwase refrain from commenting on it if you have nothing good to say.

Only the actual owners and users normally can speak on such things.

 

[Dr. Sandman]

I have a PT1911. I bought it for the reputation of them working well "right outta tha box". The warranty is good too. I have had a very good experience with this pistol.

 

[kwelz]

Look at an STI Spartan.

 

[SSN Vet]

I was priced out of the DW I wanted with their 2010 "let's kill the company" plan.

Decided to back up and get a basic 1991 Colt Commander for $740 and use that to learn the platform well, then make decisions about what extras and refinements I want.

Fit and finish means different things to different people...

Slide to frame fit is probably one of the most noticeable features. My Colt has a visible gap, but the play only measures .005". My research shows that the 1911 spec allows up to .009". Custom and Semi-custom guns are down in the .001-.002" range. But as you learn more about the platform (1911forum.com is a great resource) you'll find that the frame to slide fit has nothing to do with the accuracy of the pistol and that the uber tight guns often have problems. Example... Kimber is known for a tight fitting slide. But then they tell you not to expect reliable cycling until you put 400 rounds through it (and it loosens up).

I found it easy to identify what the most common upgrades are, but more challenging to identify what their real purpose is.

1. Beaver tail grip safety... prevents slide bite.... but the high sweep Beaver tail (ala Wilson Combat, Ed Brown, etc...) is really intended to give the highest possible grip and reduce muzzle flip slightly, allowing for the fastest possible follow up shots.... think action pistol games.

2. Heine or Novak low profile rear sight..... the fastest way to clear a stove pipe is to swipe you off hand over the top of the slide front to back. Conventional sights can gash your hand, hence the low profile. These require the slide to be machined. If you want them, the best bet is to buy a 1911 that already has them as to retro-fit is expensive. One of the old school techniques to rack the slide with only one hand is to snag the sharp edge of the standard sight on you belt, if you switch to Novaks you'll lose this ability.

3. Front slide serations.... gives you more options for racking the slide. Some like them, some hate them...

4. Extended thumb safety..... this is actually related to the up swept Beaver tail, as one way of getting the highest possible grip is to go "thumb forward" and rest the strong hand thumb on the thumb safety. This is also supposed to prevent accidental engagement of the thumb safety (which shouldn't be an issue imho). Using a thumb fwd grip without an extended thumb safety is a recipe for slide bite.

5. Extended mag release..... makes pushing the button easier... both intentionally (fast mag changes) and unintentionally

6. Beveled mag well.... pretty obvious... again, action pistol shooters who run against the clock are looking to shave every fraction of a second they can.

7. Bobtailed main spring housing.... mostly billed as increasing comfort for strong side belt carry... and to minimize printing. Some love the way it feels in their hand... others hate it.

8. night sigths.... obvious, but whether of not you can still see the dot in broad daylight is not something you should take for granted.

9. laser grips.... another can of worms...

10. Ambi thumb safety... desireable for "operators"... needed for lefties.

11. All of the above are also highly valued to increase the "cool" and "tactical" appearance of the pistol.

You may need to take out a home equity loan to get the perfect ... has it all ... 1911. But once you understand what each upgrade is really for, you can hopefully decide what you want in the gun and choose accordingly.

And that's the "rest of the story"

 

[NMGonzo]

I have a 40 year colt combat commander because I can and I like it.

I have a Rock Island Government size because I traded for a revolver.

I have a DW because I traded for another revolver I was not using, another pistol I was not using, and some cash. I have that one because I don't do fancy watches.

 

[MCEOD]

"Is it worth the extra money for a DW or should I spend the money I'd save with a cheaper one on ammo or something for the cheaper 1911 or other things?"

I'd go for the less expensive Springer and spend the extra on ammo.

 

[Quoheleth]

I would go with the Springer Mil-Spec, unless you are planning on a serious build-up in which case the even less expensive GI will suit just fine. I did have a GI and really liked it, except the grip safety bit me and I wanted an ambi safety. To add those to the gun (I don't know how, so it would have required a 'smith), parts and labor, was more than I wanted to put into it so I sold it and bought a Loaded instead.

Of those you mentioned Springer Mil-Spec gets my vote.

If you drop the "stainless" from your requirement, I would say Rock Island Tactical.

Q

 

[MICHAEL T]

I would have said Dan Wesson a couple months ago. That before they decided to raise their prices about 1/2 again what I paid for mine . I won't buy any more .I have returned to Colt DW lost me when they jumped the price several 100 dollars and dropped the classic bobtail. Thanks CZ Couldn't leave well enough alone . Many owners are not buying you new prices To many other choices

 

[Full Metal Jacket]

Is the heritage worth the extra cash?

no.


i voted stainless mil spec

 

[ttheel]

I would have said Dan Wesson a couple months ago. That before they decided to raise their prices about 1/2 again what I paid for mine . I won't buy any more .I have returned to Colt DW lost me when they jumped the price several 100 dollars and dropped the classic bobtail. Thanks CZ Couldn't leave well enough alone . Many owners are not buying you new prices To many other choices

I agree. I think DW really messed up with the price increase, a mistake they will realize very quickly. If I am going to have to pay $1500 for a DW I will just move on up to an Ed Brown or Les Baer.