1911 Spring Change

[Werewolf]

I've hit the 1000 round mark on my S&W 1911 Target and 600 round mark on my Kimber Ultra Tac 2.

I've heard/read that on a 1911 the springs should be changed after firing a 1000 rounds or so (seems a bit low to me considering the 1911 was designed as a pistol to be used in combat but then that's why I'm asking).

On a 1911 how can you tell when the main recoil spring needs replacing. What other springs should be replaced at the same time and where's a good place to buy if necessary?

 

[Jimmie]

Any changes in performance? Leave it alone if not.

http://www.m1911.org/springfaq.htm#4

 

[kingpin008]

+1. I've never understood arbitrarily replacing parts on a gun that's not having any issues. Seems like a great way to induce problems, if anything. If it were mine, I'd leave it be until there was a need to go replacing bits 'n pieces.

Plus, think what that says about the quality of the springs and/or gun that you're using, if you actually needed to replace various parts after every X amount of rounds. That would make me think twice about buying that gun or those parts. If they're gonna lose enough strength or wear so badly that I have to install new ones after a single case of ammo...that doesn't speak to me of high quality materials.

 

[10X]

1,000 rounds is too soon given normal use.
Go at least 2500 rounds, some people go 5000 rounds before changing recoil springs.
Wolff springs are the best.

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

IMO the recommendation to replace recoil springs at 1000 rounds on these full-size pistols seems like overkill. On the 3.5- and three-inch models this has merit, as they are more highly compressed and stressed.

 

[Steve B.]

Replace the recoil spring whenever you want to. It's like a $5 or $6 part!

 

[Shooters Plus]

Commander size and smaller need recoil springs changed more often. Usually around the 1000 rd mark (give or take a couple hundred). Full-size 1911's can last much longer, usually around 6 to 10,000 rds.

Normally the first thing you will notice when the recoil spring is going south is that brass will eject much farther than normal. 10 to 15' is pretty abnormal and usually a good sign of a weak spring.

Good luck

 

[sdj]

I just had a full sized, all steel SW1911 undergo a spring change and extractor tuning. The SW1911 is entirely stock. The firearm was around the 2000 round mark. I was getting FTEs with every magazine. Runs well, now. 300 or so rounds and no FTEs or FTFs. Smith's service was impeccable.

 

[BullfrogKen]

As with everything in life, it depends . . .


It depends on the caliber, the slide length, the current spring weight it's running now, and what loads you shoot.


When you order your springs, get this book. Or . . . just get this book and then see if you need more springs. I'd get them both. One way you can tell if you need a new recoil spring is to see how much it shrunk from the standard length when it was new. Bill shows you how to tell. This is a great little book for about 10 and a half bucks.

"Wilson Combat 1911 Auto Maintenance Manual" Book by Bill Wilson

 

[Zach S]

I change my 5" springs around 2000 rounds, when I actually clean the pistols rather than wiping them off and oiling them.

3.5 and 4" guns normally get a good cleaning around 250 to 300 rounds, and I go head an replace the spring then. Much longer than that and I get FTFs with my weak hand (limp wrist).

 

[PC40]

Any changes in performance? Leave it alone if not.

http://www.m1911.org/springfaq.htm#4

Thanks for that link Jimmie.

The search engine is down and I was looking for advice on how heavy a spring I should use in my Kimber. Based on it's performance the other night, and the info from that link, I think the 22# Wilson spring isn't too heavy for the Doubletap rounds I'm using.