1st wheelgun question

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jlwatts3

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I have decided that I need a wheelgun. I already have two autos, an HK USP .45 and a Springfield XD 9mm.

I think I want a SW snubby, because it will be used for CC as well as range time. I am leaning towards .357/ .38 but I haven't ruled out a .45 acp because it could share ammo with my HK.

Basically, I am looking for advice on caliber and what frame type and material I should buy and also rough price estimates.

Thanks.
 
Greeting's Sir!

You will get lots of opinions on the subject of "whats best"; or "the
perfect CCW wheelgun". Really, we need a little more information
before offering a serious suggestion; factors like concealment, and
weight can make a huge difference in our recommendations.

FWIW, I kind'a like Smith & Wessons (.38 Special ) old model 60.
Its a 5-shot model, of stainless steel construction with a 2" tube.
It weighs 19 ozs., and very capeable of handling +P ammunition.
My preferred method of carry is a $6.00 (at the time) IWB holster
from Bianchi Leather. Its a suede, all leather holster that clips on.
I wear mine in the 4 o'clock position, and it holds the weapon very
securely.

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
There are a lot of things for you to consider. If you intend to conceal the revolver I think you will find a smaller revolver more comfortable to carry. For the most part .45 caliber revolvers are relatively thick around the cylinder. Even a 5 shot .45 would be thicker than a .38 K (medium) frame revolver.

In my opinion carry revolvers are better in the .38/.357 caliber. While it is possible to conceal a 2 or 3" K frame, you might find it a lot more comfortable to try something like a 5 shot J frame. The J frame is the smallest frame size that S&W makes. They come in .38 and .357 with weights from about 12 ounces to about 22 ounces.

For shooting comfort nothing beats a K frame .38 special such as a S&W model 10. I much prefer the K frame over the J frame, but I carry a S&W model 640 J frame revolver every day in either a pocket holster or a smartcarry holster. I don't think sharing ammo should be an important part of your decision.

Bill
 
There is a lot to be said for keeping your ammunition pared down. .45 revolvers are good guns. I like the S&W 625, don't bother with their custom shop gun. It isn't everything that it should be.

The .357 is a good choice and you may appreciate the versatility of the cartridge. You get everything from light plinking to light cannon out of one gun.

It's a real toss up as far as practicality goes. When I went from autos to a revolver, I went with the .44 because I wanted a revolver cartrige and I wanted something more than a .45. I like it, but my Redhawk is not terribly concealable, although I've worn it to the supermaket a few times just because I can. I even answered the door with it once because it was handy. I have to tell you, there's nothing more comforting than a .44 loaded with 300 grain bullets that will do 1350 at the muzzle. Should a bear have been ringing my doorbell, I was ready. It was my neighbor who is slightly smaller than a bear.
 
You want advice -- I got advice!!!!!!!!!! ;)

Stick with steel frames, from S&W or Ruger. S&W makes great wheel guns, but my experience says stay away from their aluminum/scandium/titanium frames. I just don't trust them, even though I am probably in the minority on that.

.38 or .357 is fine -- I prefer .357 and can then download to .38 if I want.

Go back up the thread and read Ala Dan's post again. Smart man.

I also recommend Ruger SP101.
 
So if I'm getting you guys, the consensus is a .357 j frame. I was kind of thinking a 686 snubby would be good all around, nightstand, range, occasional carry gun. What do you think?
Also Ala Dan, what kind of info do you guys need? I'm happy to help you help me. :)
 
ATT: Mr. Watts

Two things that come to mind, a) type of clothing that will be used to
conceal this firearm, b) holsters come in varied styles (ex: IWB, belt
slide, shoulder harness (vertical or horizonal), etc. just to name a few.
Concealment should be of primary concern; as people tend to class
us law abiding citizens as "terrorists" when they see an exposed fire-
arm.

Like I said in the previous post, I think it wise that you stick with
.38 Special/.357 magnum caliber, with not more than a 3" barrel for
CCW purposes. Then decide how you want to carry the chosen piece?
Again, I like the IWB method at the 4 o'clock position; and I'm only
5'10" and weigh 210 lbs. This may not suit everybody; but it works
for me.

With that said, my recommendation would be either a Smith & Wesson
old model 60 in .38 Special, or a S&W new model 60 in .357 magnum.
You can shoot .38's in the .357, but not the other way around.

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
I've got the 625 4" and 686 2". Don't carry either as they are too big and heavy. Carry my Sig 226 17 rounds of 9. Sort of heavy but fits better. Bought the 625 because I have thousands of cases and bullets and it is a very accurate shooter ( shoots 50 rounds into 2" at 15 yards when I pay attention ).

Bought the 686 because I like stout recoiling guns but not arm breakers like the Casull. I've shot a 12 shot 3" group with the 686 at 25 yards on a very good day once so that one is a great shooter too.

If you really want a wheelie for carry a J frame is probably best but load it with mags.

I may get a Kahr 40 for carry. Small, light, concealable and good to shoot.

But I really, really love revolvers.
 
I carry my current pistols, IWB at 4 o'clock. That said, if I get the j-frame is it realistic to use an ankle or pocket holster if I want it for backup?

Also would you guys recommend the shrouded or hammerless models?

Thanks for the help.
 
I used to have a Ruger SP101 .357 snub. It is a really nice gun, but to me it is too bulky to carry around. I now have a S&W model 49 .38 Spl. They don't make the steel frames anymore, but you can still get them in alloy or in stainless(.357).
 
If signifigant range time on the gun is expected (which it sounds like it is) based on my research and experiance I'd try to find a Ruger that fit my criteria. If one isn't available, S&W is next on the list, with Taurus being an acceptable alternative if the 1st two can't provide.

Specific suggestion would be to try to find a Ruger SP-101 in 9mm or .357 Mag or if that weren't an option then the S&W M60.

The Ruger lockwork is designed more simply and more rugedly than any other revolver I've seen the inside of (S&W, Taurus and Ruger) and I'd be happier trusting it with my life than the others.

Particularly after I had problems with my S&W 646's lockwork getting hung up on some unburnt powder. Beutiful precision and craftsmanship but the gun locked up nearly solid on just a few flakes of powder in it. The Taurus design is a little more forgiving but that's offset by the chances of other issues creeping up such as cylinider bind due to their lower standard of fit and finish.

Any gun I'd carry I'll test extensively first and I won't trust any gun until I do regardless of what's engraved on the side. YMMV and all that.
 
Um, I would avoid ankle carry at all cost. If your primary firearm were
disabled, realistically do you think you could get to your back-up being
carried in ankle fashion? Especially, if you were knocked to the ground
and you were a bit disoriented. In 9 out of 10 cases, studies revealed
the correct answer is NO*. The only exception might be that if you are
in great shape and a "Kung Fu" artist! :uhoh: :rolleyes: :D

*FootNote: based on average persons.

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
I want to jump back in here with another suggestion. If you are new to shooting double action revolvers than you probably should not start off with a J frame. Get yourself a nice used Model 10 with a 4" or 2" barrel and get some trigger time. After about 2,000 rounds or so you will decide if you like double action revolvers and then you can work on a J frame. The J frame snubbies are a specialty item. You will never regret buying a model 10 and it will always be a great home defense gun.

You asked about hammer, shrouded, hammerless. Ala Dan has suggested a model 60, which has a hammer. I personally like the "Centennial" models with the internal hammer such as the 640 and 642. A compromise would be the "Bodyguard" model with the shrouded hammer. In my view the only advantage to having a hammer on a small revolver used for self-defense is to do a function test for high primers etc.

Bill
 
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