2 more newbie questions

[97guns]

got another newbie question for you guys. i took my very first ever reloads out last weekend, .308 winchester with 150gr and 165gr bullets both with an oal of 2.8" shot out of a bolt action.

everything was going fine and then i went to chamber a round and it felt really tight closing the bolt, i ejected the round and rechambered it and it felt tight again. i again ejected it and looked at the base of the brass and i could see rub markings on it as well as the primer from the bolt face.

these were once fired winchester brass that were not length sized. i heard that it wouldnt be neccesary to length size brass when shooting purely through a single bolt gun.

....also i was averaging 1 1/2: groups @ 100 - what steps should i take to dial a load in? do i mess with the charge or oal? ive never "worked up loads" before.

TIA

 

[Grumulkin]

1. With a bolt action gun you do not need to full length size IF the cartridge was fired in the SAME gun prior to the reload. Besides inadequate sizing, hard chambering can be caused if the case is too long (i.e., hasn't been trimmed).

2. In load workup, I start at the lower end of the recommended powder charge and in a cartridge the size of a 308 Win. case work up in 1 grain increments until 1 or 2 grains below the maximum recommended charge at which I work up in 0.5 grain increments. I shoot 3 shot groups of each load. Typically, the groups start out large, get smaller and then start getting larger again. I stop increasing powder charges at the point where groups are smallest or if any signs of excess pressure occur. Once I've found the powder charge that seems optimal, I vary things like cartridge length, primers, etc. I also frequently use Sierra, Berger or Nosler match bullets in load workup so I know accuracy issues aren't because of the bullet.

The powder I use for 308 Win. loads is IMR 4064.

 

[emb]

It is not always necessary to full length resize. But to neck size only the brass for your reloads should have been fired from your rifle. Chambers in even the same model rifles are different. If the brass came from some else's rifle or is range pick up, I would always full length resize the first time.

If you continue to have a problem, you just may need to full length resize all the time. There is nothing wrong with doing that and does not affect accuracy enough to be concerned about for hunting applications. In fact in hunting applications, some recommend full length resizing to ensure that you can chamber a round all of the time.

As for working up rifle loads, pick your bullet and powder. I start about 2-3 grns below max and work up by .5 grns. I load 20 rounds with five different powder charges. My standard is at least 1" at 200 yrds. Somewhere in that mix, I usually find a load that works for me.

 

[bullseye308]

Try one of these when setting up your dies and checking your brass. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=271313

 

[rcmodel]

i could see rub markings on it as well as the primer from the bolt face.

You should never experience rub marks on an unfired primer!

When seated properly, the new primer should be well below the surface of the case head. (.002" - .003")

It sounds to me like you should be Full-Length sizing everything, until you gain more reloading experience and get past mistakes like high-seated primers & such.

You can chamber-check all your cases after you size them and see if they will fit or not before you proceed on with reloading them.

That right there sounds like the plan until you get it all sorted out.

rcmodel

 

[emb]

97. When I started, I bought the reloading videos from Sierra. They are excellent at teaching you the basics of reloading and the proper use of reloading equipment. I think you can get these videos from Cabelas as well.