.223 Jamming maybe a lube issue?

[HJ857]

SlamFire1, I like the idea of the gauges cut for my rifle. Can you give more details about Franks contact info?

Did you have to send him your upper?

What SlamFire and cFullgraf are talking about are really only for match rifles. Your RRA upper doesn't need and won't benefit from a match grade chamber gauge. It's almost an apples/oranges comparison.

What you need is a SAAMI spec gauge, so any round that fits in to that gauge will work in any chamber cut to SAAMI spec, which is going to be pretty much any rifle except maybe a match rifle.

JP rifles makes one that I trust completely. Go to this link and look for the JPCG-223.
http://www.jprifles.com/1.5.1.2_maint.php

It's a standard stock item and you don't need to send your upper.

The real bugger about this issue is that the term "case gauge" seems to be a generic term. For example, the JP gauge tests for SAAMI spec and could be used for headspace, the Wilson tests for headspace but is not meant to test SAAMI specs even though it *can* work if the gauge is cut tight and used in conjunction with a loose rifle chamber, the Hornady headspace gauges measure shoulder set back but tell you nothing about the integrity at the base of the casing. It's a pain in the butt, so you have to be a bit careful choosing your tools.

Just another note. You can use this gauge to test your brass after sizing. You'll find that there will some casings that simply will not size no matter what, so obviously this is not a seating or crimp problem or a headspace problem. The problem is that some cases get deformed at the base or rim and there's no fixing that, you just throw them away.

If you do the gauge test after sizing and it fits, but then after fully loading and crimping a round, it fails the gauge test, then you know that you have a problem with the neck bulging and you need to change how your die(s) are set up.

This gauge is also very useful for testing factory loads, and steel case ammo in particular. I don't worry about plinking or practice sessions, but if you shoot in competitions at any level, it's always best to test every round you take to the competition. One jammed round automatically knocks you out of contention, if that's a consideration.

You may be surprised at the number of factory rounds that do not pass spec.

 

[Branden967]

Thanks for the help. I was poking around on Midway trying to figure out which gauge does them all, but its definitely confusing.

The gauge looks great online. I tried to order one but they are on backorder status.

Thanks for the help.

 

[chrt396]

Case not sized properly or the shoulder is slightly bulged from over crimping, which is very easy to do.

What he said!!
Ask me how I know!!! 100 reasons how i know!!!:banghead:

 

[kingmt]

Why are you digging up the dead. I read all of that before I seen the date.

 

[1stmarine]

The problem is not crimping the rounds. What you have to do is to find out if you have a problem with either the chamber or the round.
Assuming your chamber is up to spec then next logical place to look is the round. What are the measures of the round coming out of the press. A the shoulder angle? the neck? COAL?
The gauge is ok but you might find out you need a new set of dies anyway.
AR rounds for the .223 should be full length resized every time. Find out if your dies produce a .223 round or a 5.56 round. Also you should be trimmed to length, you can measure and trim one by one or just trim them all using the lee gauge and a powered trim station (faster).
Whatever you do you need to make sure the round is going to fit well in that chamber. Don't force it, don't even try to fire it.
A light lee factory crimp works the best. for the dies,,, well lets say I have a good collection but my favorites are redding now.

 

[popper]

Get the standard case gauge, use it to set up the die. Use the chamber brush - those little chips of brass will get in there. Trim brass to length. If you crimp, DON'T use a die that roll crimps - I taper crimp cause I flare for flat-based bullets. Make dummy rounds, drop into chamber and close the bolt with your hand. Put them in your clip and cycle with the charging handle to make sure everything is OK. Get a small rubber mallet, unlock the charging handle and hit the tab on the other side with the mallet to clear the round. Pogo-ing doesn't always work and can be hard on your stock.

 

[Hondo 60]

Case not sized properly or the shoulder is slightly bulged from over crimping

+1 to what Walkalong said.
I've had one where it was over crimped & there's just enough outward movement of the shoulder to not allow it to seat in the chamber.

Getting a Cartridge gauge would allow you to see if it'll fit before being at the range.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/456614/le-wilson-case-length-headspace-gage-223-remington

 

[cfullgraf]

Once again...

Case gauges for rifle rounds are not chamber gauges. They measure shoulder position relative to the base and the overall length of the case. Other dimensions are cut generously.

A round could fit in the case gauge and yet still not chamber in your rifle due to a bulged shoulder.

Read the case gauge manufacturer's fine print.

Some folks with custom rifles and chambers have the gunsmith cut a special, custom chamber gauge with the same reamer used to cut the rifle's chamber.

Pistol cartridges are a different story, but the pistol's barrel is the best case/chamber gauge.

Added information. There is one or two commercially available chamber gauges for 223 Remington. I believe JP Enterprises makes the only one that I know of. There may be others, but I have not heard of them. Wilson and Dillon rifle case gauges are not chamber gauges.

 

[1stmarine]

I agree with cfullgraf.
get to know your chamber and then if you want replicate a gauge for that but eventually you are going to have to chamber that regardless what the gauge says. If you have a caliper trust it.
If you need to know how to measure actual neck, headspace and other measures inside the chamber we can guide you. All you need is a nice solid long brass rod.

 

[Strykervet]

If you do it as described, you don't have a whole lot to worry about. The FP doesn't have enough mass to set off a round, no matter how hard you hit the rifle, and unless the bolt is fully engaged, the bolt carrier's position won't allow a hammer strike on the FP.

Depends on how it hits. I've seen an M4 dropped from an attic hatch, soldier was on the ladder, and the M4 fell and hit the concrete barrel first. It bounced in the air when the round went off and blew out a chunk of hard concrete. Weapon was on safe, round in chamber, carried muzzle down and the sling broke coming down the ladder and it fell about 8 feet.

 

[1stmarine]

Strykervet,
I agree with you. Slam/accidental firing is possible both with the cam fully or even partially engaged. It is not supposed to happen but experience shows otherwise.
For the OP in this case the best thing to do is to go back to the drawing board and analyze every step. Never force a round into a chamber and keep pushing that forward assist like there is no end to it. Never try to fire that round!!!. Figure what is wrong and if the reload is the route cause shoot some factory until you get some new dies or figure out the solution to the issue.
I agree with some posts above avoid heavy roll crimps. The best is a very light factory lee crimp or similar. This also helps with the spreads as it provides uniform starting pressure.
It might be wise to take somebody experienced reloader into the basement and show them the issues and setup and get an extra pair of eyes looking at the system and reloading process.
Cheers.
E.

 

[popper]

cfullgraf is correct, case gauge checks case length. Generally if you make it fit the case gauge and have no bullet engraving, the problem is then the shoulder, mostly due to crimp. The case gauge gets you there at minimal expense and can be used for any of the cal gun. A chamber gauge is more $$ and is chamber specific.

 

[amlevin]

I had a problem like this at first. My rounds did exactly the same thing yet all fit in the Wilson Case gauge just fine.

Cured it by backing off the seater die body 1 full turn and readjusted the seater plug for proper OAL. I then started crimping with a LEE factory Crimp die. Haven't had the problem in well over 10,000 rounds.