stock bedding
I think you are covering all your bases o.k.. You are confident in your scope and bases. (The reason I mentioned ammo is that some rifles will not shoot
boat tail bullets well, meaning they may not hit a 16" target at 100 yds regularly, but will shoot flat base bullets well, less than one inch at 100 yds. There is a specific reason for that, but it doesn't sound like that is the issue, so there is no reason to go into it.) Some rifles group 2 1/2 " at 100 yds out of a clean bore, 10 shots later they tighten up to 1/2" and will shoot the next 50 rounds same way. Some rifles will shoot a nice 1/2 " group with one brand of ammo and shoot a 1/2" group with another brand (with same the weight of bullet) but
with a 3" gap between the groups. This really isn't that uncommon at all.
I can't say you will not have to add fore end pressure. But for the reasons RC
gave, it's usually not advisable with a wood stock. Most guns will shoot well with the tang and recoil lug bedded (and many do pillar bedding) and the barrel floated. Generally I prefer a space under the recoil lug and enough room on the front of the lug to ease in disassembly (rather than having to rap the barrel lightly on the bench).
But this 6 " inch group is way out of what I would expect out of the factory. And more than I would expect from most bedding issues.
Your 180 gr. Rem core lokts are quite capable of 1/2" groups at 100 yds ( and are flat base as well). If your 6 " groups were also with these same bullets and your same scope/ mount setup, you've then eliminated those variables at least.
I always want to find out what is causing the problem if possible. So if you strike out with the manufacturer, I would relieve any pressure under the recoil lug first and make sure you can slide a sheet of printer paper under the barrel from muzzle to recoil lug. And if you are still shooting 6 inch groups, then you
have to consider either rebedding the action and recoil lug with a floated barrel
or full length bedding or simply just adding fore end pressure ( which can easily be removed, scraped and sanded out, I'd guess).
And before I started the rebedding project I would give the Sierra tech guys ( the Bulletsmiths) a call and see what they have to say. They have the biggest database on gun problems in the industry and will usually answer your question whether you are shooting Sierra bullets or not and can often tell you what brands are more susceptible to the different issues.
Anyway please post what you end up doing and the end result. OYE