.303 British reloading tips

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mookiie

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I am thinking about reloading some 303 British and I hear it can be tricky because of the enfields chamber size variation. Could anyone give me some tips?
Thanks,
Sean
 
Only tip I can give you is to set your sizing die to headspace off the case shoulder, NOT the rim.

Most Enfields have very generous headspace and very loose chambers, so if you full length size all the way, case life will be drastically shortened.

You want to adjust the sizing die to just push the shoulder back far enough to get the bolt to close on the case with slight resistance.

Other then that, it should be no different then loading any other caliber.

rc
 
I've also read that if you only have one rifle in that caliber and are using brass that was fired in that rifle, to just neck size only, since the cases are fire-formed to that chamber already. For bolt rifles, not autos. If you buy new or used brass, you'll need to full-length resize them first, then shoot them to fire-form to your rifle, then just neck size from then on.
 
How do you just neck size? I have heard the term but just started reloading in the last 4 months. I have lee pacesetter dies so I resize and knock the primers out with the same die.
 
How do you just neck size? I have heard the term but just started reloading in the last 4 months. I have lee pacesetter dies so I resize and knock the primers out with the same die.

Buy a 303 neck die..... it also de-primes and you need NO lube, brass will fit perfectly and last much longer
 
Mookiie,

Check out Steve Regwell's website; www.303british.com
Get new brass and fireform it with the case head held tight against the bolt fact. Keep brass fired in that rifle segregated for use in the that rifle only. Thereafter neck size with the Lee collet die. Don't expect once fired factory brass to last very long. Get Hornaday .312-174 grain round nose or Sierra 180 grain .311 flat base spitzer bullets. Most well used Lee Enfields don't shoot boat-tail bullets well. Use a slow powder like Reloder 15 or IMR4350. Don't try to hot-rod it, keep the pressures around 40-42,000psi and 2200-2400 fps. Seat bullets out to just kiss the rifling when you close the bolt. Get the Lee Factory crimp die and try various levels of crimping to refine accuracy. Oh! Almost forgot, Keep the king screw tight.
 
Start by slugging the barrel. Hammer a cast .30 calibre bullet or suitable sized lead fishing sinker through the barrel using a 1/4" brass rod and a plastic mallet, then measure the bullet/sinker with a micrometer. Lee-Enfield barrels can measure between .311" and .315" and still be considered ok. Over .315" the barrel is shot out. Then buy the closest diameter bullet.
Hornadys are .312". Sierra and Speer use .311". Steve at .303british.com is, seasonally, making .313 and .314 inch 200 grain fmj's.
"...How do you just neck size?..." You can set up the sizing die with a fair bit of trail and error. Adjust the die up or down so it only sizes the neck. Or buy a neck sizing die.
 
I learned to reload with the classic lee loader. It's slow, but it makes darn good ammo. I didn't like the priming method so I bought a lee hand primer. If I keep my loads moderate the brass with last 4 or 5 times. If I load it much hotter I only get 2 or 3 loads. I have found that S & B brass is the worst for the .303 as it doesn't last long at all. My enfield does not like boat tail bullets either. Some of the most accurate loads were loaded with the standard Remington .310 180 grain core locs.
 
Buy a 303 neck die.....
Or, unscrew the FL die you have so it only neck sizes and doesn't push the shoulder back at all.
That's just an 1/8 turn more then what I told him to do in post #2.

rc
 
Or, unscrew the FL die you have so it only neck sizes and doesn't push the shoulder back at all.
That's just an 1/8 turn more then what I told him to do in post #2.

Well that's gone around for years and it really is half assed... the body of the case is going to begin to be sized nearly immediately... you cannot really just size the neck more than maybe .200 without the die coming into contact with the case body.

I've tried this many times years ago and a set of calipers will show you the truth. Sure the shoulder may not be pushed back but the body will be partially sized none the less.

A neck die can be bought for 20-28 bucks depending on whose you buy.... money well spent.
 
Mookie -
Here's the Lee version from Midway. Lee calls it a "collet die".

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=801209

This particular item is a complete die set which comes with the Collet and the Bullet Seating die. (You probably already have the later.) Sometimes the Collet is sold separately, you might check around. Maybe Lee no longer sells them that way.

These Collet dies work by having 3 or 4 radially placed pieces squeeze inwardly on the case neck at the top of the press stroke. That's why no case lube is required. There's not a tight, sliding fit involved.
 
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Well, for years Remington marketed their 180 gr. as .311. It's somewhere between .310 and .315. It's still one accurate bullet.
 
Just to give an Update, I went to the range today and shot some of the brass that I full length sized, and a lot of them just broke. I think it has something to do with the way the chamber is in this gun, because about a half inch from the case head they just broke all off, almost like they we cut with a saw and a few you can see it giving way at this point if it did not break totally, I will try the neck sizer on the few new cases I shot today and see what happens but I may just not be able to reload for this gun. I will try and post some pictures but it is hard to see the case bulge on the fired ones.
 
Mookie -

Sorry to hear of your issues. Sounds as if your brass was old and tired. Was this some military surplus stuff left over from 1942 ? Or were your loads just way hot?
 
No they were once fired sellier and bellot cases with a 174 grn fmjBT bullet and 38.5 grns of IMR 4064 powder, pretty conservative I thought.
 
Have a Gunsmith check your Rifles Headspace

Mookie, i cant really add a whole lot to what has already been said. Neck size your brass with a neck die.http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=199697 When the brass will no longer chamber you will have to use a full length sizing die. But control how much you push the shoulder back by placing a shim or feeler gauge between the shell holder & die when adjusting it. Start with a shim of .015", size your brass. Will it chamber with a little extra bolt pressure. If you can not close the bolt, try a smaller shim maybe like .012" or smaller till the bolt closes on the empty case. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=12897/GunTechdetail/Gauging_Success___Minimum_Headspace_and_Maximum_COL
 
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Go Lead...

mookiie
I had the same problem with several brands of once-fired brass in my Savage No 4 Mk1*. Hornady was the softest and failed soonest in my loadings, and HXP and Norma seemed to hold up best. The key to brass life, along with moderate loads is what all the others have suggested - either neck sizing brass from your rifle with the n-s die (best), or backing the regular sizing die out. You still won't get 10 firings, but it will be better than only one. If you decide you want to shoot it a lot, get some heavy (185-200+ gr) lead bullets, or better yet, get the casting stuff and make your own. It opens up a whole 'nother avenue of gear acquisition and expansion of your reloading activities into every square inch of your available area... ;)
 
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