I'm new to the site and I'm trying to find out any information I can on a .38 caliber Smith & Wesson I inherited. This revolver was originally my grandfathers, and passed down to my father and now to me. There is no model number markings on it but looking on the web at the variouus gun sites, it appears it may be a Model 10. It is a six shot, with 4" barrel and blue steel. The serial number is S 946767. I contacted S&W but I will have to pay to get any information on this revolver. I will do this if all other means fail. Any information anyone can give will be appreciated
.38 Caliber Smith & Wesson
- Thread starter Guinnes43
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Sounds like a Military & Police Model (M&P for short) made shortly after WW II (1946-48). This model would become the Model 10 in 1957 when model numbers were assigned. Made in numerous calibers and barrel lengths, with round butt and square butt in blue and nickel the 4" square butt .38 Special version is probably the most popular and the most common.
This gun was a mainstay for American police until the 1970s when Magnums and 9mm autos started to replace it.
A pair of 1949 M&Ps with 2" barrels and round butts.
A 1977 4" square butt M10 in nickel.
And a wartime production M&P that started as a 4" .38 Special but was fitted with a replacement 5" barrel.
BTW- The same gun in stainless steel is the Model 64. This is a 2" RB version that's been polished.
This gun was a mainstay for American police until the 1970s when Magnums and 9mm autos started to replace it.
A pair of 1949 M&Ps with 2" barrels and round butts.
A 1977 4" square butt M10 in nickel.
And a wartime production M&P that started as a 4" .38 Special but was fitted with a replacement 5" barrel.
BTW- The same gun in stainless steel is the Model 64. This is a 2" RB version that's been polished.
The preceding post is generally correct. Smith & Wesson resumed production of their commercial Military & Police revolvers in September, 1945 at serial number S 811,120. The "S" denoted that the revolver had a new positive hammer block, and could be carried fully loaded with 6 rounds. Your revolver would then be the 136,647th of several million made after World War Two.
In addition, your Grandfather’s revolver is a relative scarce variant called a “transitional”. In 1948 S&W introduced a new style of lockwork, called a “short action,” at serial number S 990,184. This shortened the cocking stroke of the hammer somewhat, but at the expense of a light, ultra-smooth double-action trigger pull that was prized by many shooters and law enforcement officers. Those revolvers made between serial numbers S 811,120 to approximately S 990,184 had the earlier pre-war “long action,” along with the new hammer block, which was a unique combination.
Given this gun's history within your family, I suggest that you do get it "lettered." To do so you will need a snapshot of the gun, a full description including the serial number on the butt, and a check in the amount of $30.00 made out to Smith & Wesson. In exchange the company's historian, Roy G. Jinks, will research the original records (which are not computerized by the way) and send you a letter containing the details of what he finds.
This comprehensive document will contain an overview of the model’s history, followed by the details of your particular gun. This usually includes the caliber, barrel length, finish, and the exact date it was shipped from the factory, and to what distributor or dealer. If there are any special features they will be listed too. This information is often invaluable to both you and future generations because you will have positive proof of its history and authenticity, for what is a modest fee. Other companies charge up to $100.00 and more for this kind of information.
Additional information on a historical letter will be found at the Smith & Wesson company website at: www.smith-wesson.com
In addition, your Grandfather’s revolver is a relative scarce variant called a “transitional”. In 1948 S&W introduced a new style of lockwork, called a “short action,” at serial number S 990,184. This shortened the cocking stroke of the hammer somewhat, but at the expense of a light, ultra-smooth double-action trigger pull that was prized by many shooters and law enforcement officers. Those revolvers made between serial numbers S 811,120 to approximately S 990,184 had the earlier pre-war “long action,” along with the new hammer block, which was a unique combination.
Given this gun's history within your family, I suggest that you do get it "lettered." To do so you will need a snapshot of the gun, a full description including the serial number on the butt, and a check in the amount of $30.00 made out to Smith & Wesson. In exchange the company's historian, Roy G. Jinks, will research the original records (which are not computerized by the way) and send you a letter containing the details of what he finds.
This comprehensive document will contain an overview of the model’s history, followed by the details of your particular gun. This usually includes the caliber, barrel length, finish, and the exact date it was shipped from the factory, and to what distributor or dealer. If there are any special features they will be listed too. This information is often invaluable to both you and future generations because you will have positive proof of its history and authenticity, for what is a modest fee. Other companies charge up to $100.00 and more for this kind of information.
Additional information on a historical letter will be found at the Smith & Wesson company website at: www.smith-wesson.com
Don't ever bet the ranch when using S&W serial numbers as a guide to models and features. Many, many, many, many (add a few more) examples of S&W revolvers with serials out of sync with what they SHOULD be are known.
To determine if your gun actually is a post-war transitional model take a look at the hammer. This is the quickest way to ID the pre-war model versus the post-war. Note the hammer shape on the wartime M&P posted above. The spur emerges near the top of the hammer. All the other post-war guns have hammers with spurs emerging nearer to the center of the hammer. If yours has the early style hammer then your gun was built after the war using left over parts from before the Great Misunderstanding of 1941-45 occurred and thi is what is meant by "transitional" model.
A transitional model will bring a little more money if in good condition.
To determine if your gun actually is a post-war transitional model take a look at the hammer. This is the quickest way to ID the pre-war model versus the post-war. Note the hammer shape on the wartime M&P posted above. The spur emerges near the top of the hammer. All the other post-war guns have hammers with spurs emerging nearer to the center of the hammer. If yours has the early style hammer then your gun was built after the war using left over parts from before the Great Misunderstanding of 1941-45 occurred and thi is what is meant by "transitional" model.
A transitional model will bring a little more money if in good condition.
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