38+p in 357 brass

[Merledog]

I've got a couple questions for anybody more knowledgable than I. I will be moving within the month and re-setting up my reloading gear. I keep a 2.5 " model 66, and a 3" model 60 stoked with the Remington 158 grain LSWCHP 38+P's. I would like to have a load that would duplicate the ballistics of said round to keep point of aim, but out of 357 cases. Reason being to avoid leading in the cylinder, because I will on occasion especially with the 66 have reason to stoke it with standard 357s. And I have chingos of 357 brass saved up. I know it will make some difference with pressure but I may load some fmj or plated bullets to keep the leading down.

All of that being said, would I run into any issues with detonation, etc. shooting them out of my Marlin 1894C? All my manuals are still packed so I haven't compared mininmum loading between the rifle and handgun sections. I know this is closely related to a thread right below but it didn't really answer my question and I figured maybe you all were already primed with 38 vs. 357 data.

Will the leading in the cylinder be an issue or am I just a little overthinking it? I'll be able to shoot out the back door and hopefully be putting a fair number of rounds downrange.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Using a Hornady or Speer 158gr LSWC/HP bullet with a charge of 7.0gr HS-6 in .357 Magnum brass will do the job for you. HS-6 is also a low flash powder so using the ammo at night won't blind you. I use a Magnum primer with HS-6 because I feel it provides better ignition but if you want to use a standard primer it will work as well.

I loaded up some FBI replica rounds in .38 Special brass using HS-6 and achieved single digit SD numbers with very good accuracy. I'm sure you will get the same results in .357 Magnum brass.

HS-6 works very well with lead bullets in the 38/357 unlike some of the newer powders like Longshot.

 

[Merledog]

Thanks for the help.

 

[The_Antibubba]

You will want to make sure not to mix it up with your "regular" ,357 brass.