Lost Sheep
Member
Read post #6
38 spl question
- Thread starter jhamilt
- Start date
- Status
Lost Sheep
Member
A chronograph can be had for (starting) around $100. You know you will buy one eventually. You might as well get one now.
Lost Sheep
Revolver218
Member
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2011
- Messages
- 47
That COL of 1.475 may be for the Hornady 158gr LRN. In their manual they call for a COL of 1.455 for all their 158 gr bullets, (they don't have a crimping grove) which are swaged. I have found, however, that the 1.455 works for the SWC but seats above the shoulder of the LRN, hence I have been using 1.481 (close to the 1.475) to crimp into or just below the shoulder. The Hornady manual also calls from 3.2 to 4.1 of W231 (same as HP-38) while the Hodgdon site recommends 3.1 to 3.7. I run 3.5 and this works in all my 2 and 4 inch revolvers. The Speer Manual calls for 3.8 to 4.1W231 in a 158 gr LRN but these are probably cast and not swaged. Good luck.
I loaded and shot 150 rounds yesterday.
Fantastic results thanks to all the information you guys gave me.
The loads were 125 grain total copper plated flat point Rainier bullets over 4.3 grains of Bullseye.
COL was 1.435 in.
I got a great practice rounds out of this mix.
I don't have a chrono but the bullets were slow enough to be seen with the naked eye from the side and behind the shooter.
4.5 grains is supposed to produce 914 fps so I am guessing that I am running at about 700 fps because I am shooting out of 2 in snubbies with 4.3 grains.
I only had 1 dud round out of the 150.
Thanks again guys.
Fantastic results thanks to all the information you guys gave me.
The loads were 125 grain total copper plated flat point Rainier bullets over 4.3 grains of Bullseye.
COL was 1.435 in.
I got a great practice rounds out of this mix.
I don't have a chrono but the bullets were slow enough to be seen with the naked eye from the side and behind the shooter.
4.5 grains is supposed to produce 914 fps so I am guessing that I am running at about 700 fps because I am shooting out of 2 in snubbies with 4.3 grains.
I only had 1 dud round out of the 150.
Thanks again guys.
A slight exaggeration with AA #2, which seems to be bulkier than some folks think. It is also one of the best when it comes to position insensitivity.
True, like many powders, you can double charge a .38 case with AA #2, but it should be obvious to the eye.
Trail Boss does love lead though, and will keep a beginner out of trouble when it comes to over charging or double charges.
True, like many powders, you can double charge a .38 case with AA #2, but it should be obvious to the eye.
Trail Boss does love lead though, and will keep a beginner out of trouble when it comes to over charging or double charges.
Lost Sheep
Member
It would be worthwhile to figure out the cause of the dud.
If you try to fire it a second time and it does go off, it is likely that the primer was not seated fully. The first firing pin blow seats the primer, but does not have enough energy left over to set it off. The second blow sets off the primer.
If you pull the bullet and find powder inside, but the primer (decap the primer and view under a strong light) did not go off, it probably got contaminated. Make sure you handle primers with clean, dry hands, or better yet only primer handling tools. Modern primers seldom get contaminated because they are protected with foil and sealant, but it can happen.
If the primer did go off and there is powder in the cartridge case, you got either an extremely weak primer (and very lucky with regards to a hangfire) or the powder in that case was contaminated. Could there have been oil or water in the case?
If the primer did go off and there is no powder in the cartridge case, look at the base of the bullet and see if there is scorching on it. If so, you loaded an uncharged cartridge and got lucky the bullet did not enter the barrel. If it entered the barrel partway, your gun would have been jammed up (with a bullet locking the cylinder and barrel in alignment) with possibly some live rounds still in the other chambers of the cylinder.
If the primer did go off, no powder in the case and no scorching, you may have loaded a spent primer. Highly unlikely, but if you managed it, you need to review the layout of your loading bench.
If something goes wrong, it could go wrong again. If it happens a second time, you may be less lucky than the first time.
Lost Sheep
Innovative
Member
Other thing to watch for .... thin brass.
Here are two handloading tips for the .38 Special.
The .38 Special has some pretty thin brass, and it will eventually crack after your cases have been reloaded enough times. Therefore, it's a good idea to make your handloads in different lots, and label each lot (just like the ammo factories). That way when you get your first cracked case, you can pitch all of the cases in that lot.
Another thing with the .38 Special (also caused by the thin brass) is handloads that won't chamber. This happens if your roll crimp is a bit too heavy. It causes the case to buckle just above the web.
Here are two handloading tips for the .38 Special.
The .38 Special has some pretty thin brass, and it will eventually crack after your cases have been reloaded enough times. Therefore, it's a good idea to make your handloads in different lots, and label each lot (just like the ammo factories). That way when you get your first cracked case, you can pitch all of the cases in that lot.
Another thing with the .38 Special (also caused by the thin brass) is handloads that won't chamber. This happens if your roll crimp is a bit too heavy. It causes the case to buckle just above the web.
- Status
