.44 1860 Army

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wildburp

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First time in this room; been on the more modern shooter's forums, but need advise for my wall decoration.

Some 9 (or so) years ago, I purchased an 1860 .44 Army (the pistol typically used by the North during the Civil War) from Cabellas, along with caps, balls, modern powder, but no powder measure.

LSS (new acronym for Long Story Short), I guessed about the powder and loaded the cylinders, then crimped in the balls and sealing wax, stuck on a cap, and tried it. Nothing, except for the cap, of course. Stupid, yes, I know, but I'd like to empty the propellent, but can't figure out how to remove the cylinder. The single screw on the left side of the barrel near the cylinder backs out a little, but seems to have no function, other than that.

How can I remove the modern propellant (can't remember what it is called) and load it with the proper amount? A nipple wrench came with the piece, but nipple removal seems clumsy to me unless one can remove the cyclinder.

Been so many years, I just noticed this: I only loaded 5 chambers. Must have done something right.

Bottom line, I suspect I poured in too much Pyrodex (that just popped into my mind) and it failed to fire because of that. Lucky I did not blow my face off, I know; just hung it the wall and did not fool with it any more. What I need is a powder measure and instructions about how many grains/ounces are best for the firearm. Actually, I am surprised that Cabellas would sell the gun without a complete kit/instructions. Maybe I just got a phone person more ignorant than I?

Waiting for waves of rebuke, revulsion, repremands, righteous indignation, right wing revelations, Roy Rogers stories, or other stuff that begins with "R", or maybe some other letter.

Have Paper Weight, Will Travel

wb
 
likely there was still some oil in the nipple channel and that killed the flame.It doesn't take oil or moisture to do that. You could run a pin through the nipples, hope the thing has dried out and try again .

to unload:

tap the wedge toward the side of the frame the screw is on. the only purpose of the screw is to keep the wedge from falling all the way out. Then pull the barrel off the arbor and remove the cylinder ( with gun on half cock). If it doesnt want to come loose, use the loading lever .

Remove the nipples with a nipple wrench.
dump out the powder from each chamber

run a punch throught the nipple holes and tap the balls out of the chambers.

some people recommend using a brass punch to prevent possible spark ignition of remaining powder.

If you were able to seat the ball into the chambers, you're charge was not excessive and would not cause misfires.
 
You can't put in too much Pyrodex. Put another cap on the nipple, and try again. If the nipple is clear, the gun should fire, regardless of how much powder is in it, if the powder is dry. The gun will not blow up.

If you want to remove the cylinder, put the hammer on half-cock, tap out the barrel wedge, work off the barrel using the loading lever, and slide the cylinder off of the pin. :D
 
Gentlemen

Appreciate your quick replies for my paper weight. Will expedite soon. Will post a dead Confederate ... no, just kidding. Printing all input; being a retired Yankee, have nothing better to do then make my pistol work.

Have other lead lobbers, but don't have a digital camera; will post all when Grant reaches Vicksburg.

wb
 
One more opinion

Buddy I think you need a mentor or coach. Find a local group of BP shooters and ask for some training on your pistol and shooting of same. They will enjoy working with you as that's the way we are <grin>. Good luck.
 
The pistol I bought came with a table of recomended shooting loads

the one for an 1860 in 44 caliber round ball is. min 22 grains of 3f powder
max 30 grains of 3f powder


cartridge cases make great measures a
40 S&W = 25 grains
38 spl = 25 grains
357 = 30 grains
 
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