.45 ACP Lee Factory Crimp Die

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I bought and received this die last week. I'm using it in a Hornady L-N-L, with the Hornady #1 shell holder, and a L-N-L bushing. As such, it doesn't touch the cartridge in any way that crimps the bullet. I reloaded brand new cases, to 1.210 COL, and even with the stem screwed in all the way, it doesn't crimp at all. Is anyone using the FCD with this setup? I'm wondering if I need to purchase a Lee #2 shell holder, which is what they sell for the .45 ACP.

Thanks for any help and/or suggestions.

john
 
I don't own a LNL but I've heard that some Lee dies aren't long enough unless you put the locking nut on the bottom of the turret. Using the Hornady bushing may make that worse. Like I say I don't own one so apologies if you've tried this.

With the ram up does your Lee die touch the shell plate? That's the first step in adjusting the Factory Crimp Die.

Dave
 
I have a set of the Lee dues for 9mm. My understanding is the FCD works the same on all calibers.

Reread then follow the instructions, they’re not intuitive so you probably need to adjust your die
 
The #2 shell holder should have come with the set of dies. That's Lee's way.

Oh wait... I just realized you bought only the FCD.

Try using the lock ring on the bottom.
 
with the Hornady #1 shell holder, and a L-N-L bushing.
The correct Hornady shell holder for the .45ACP is the #45

...even with the stem screwed in all the way, it doesn't crimp at all
It is best to start diagnosing the issue from the beginning...is the die screwed in far enough to touch the shellholder?

As you are already using the LNL Bushing, are you also using the LNL lock ring...it'll allow you to screw the die into the press deeper
 
L-N-L Progressive or a different one?
I can setup my .45 FCD on my LNL progressive tomorrow when I get home and see if there is an issue with it being long enough if we are talking about the progressive.
If we are talking about a different one (which I think we are since you said shell holder) I don't know if that would help.
The shell holders are all the same height (within reason). I don't have a Hornady shellholder to measure to compare it to the Lee but I can measure my Lee .45 ACP shellholder tomorrow afternoon.
(sprinklers running now, and going to bed shortly)
Raise the RAM whith a shellholder and no case. Screw the FCD in until it touches the shellholder.
Unscrew the adjustment knob in the top of the die almost all the way out.
Put a loaded round in the shellholder and raise the ram.
Screw the knob in the top of the die in until you can feel it touch.
Lower the ram.
Screw the knob in the top of the die in another 1/4 to 1/2 turn (you may need to fiddle with this part to get the amount of crimp you want, just enough to remove the bell)
Raise the ram and you should be good to go.

If the FCD won't touch the shellholder (lockring may be all the way at the top of the threads on the die)
you may be able to put the die in from the bottom of the bushing with the lockring on the bottom.
(never tried but should be possible)
 
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Why are you crimping a .45ACP cartridge? In my experience you just want to take the bell out of the case mouth - at the most, taper crimp the case. No?

THe LFCD is an adjustable taper crimp die.

You can take the bell out of the crimp or apply as much taper crimp to the case as you want.

I've used one for a long time, they work great.

If you've never used one you probably wouldn't know how they work.
 
THe LFCD is an adjustable taper crimp die.

Well, they taper crimp for auto cartridges and roll crimp in the revolver calibers. I, too, like them.

IDK anything about Hornady presses. I know that when I put my well-used Lee dies on my Dillon press, several of them were too short if I left the Lee or Hornady locking rings in place on top of them. Lee dies aren't very long, and thick-ish lock rings do take up a fair amount of that precious threaded space. You can work around this by either putting the lock ring below the toolhead, or by using the very thin Dillon lock rings. Both of these, unfortunately, do eliminate the ability to retain the setting between installations (you have to unscrew the lock ring entirely to remove the die in option #1, and the Dillon rings have no friction mechanism and immediately lose their setting as soon as you begin to loosen the die).
 
Lee dies aren't very long, and thick-ish lock rings do take up a fair amount of that precious threaded space.
The issue with their short die body length of Lee dies is exacerbated by the depth and design of their lock rings.

As opposed to other manufacturers, the threads in Lee lock rings are only half the depth of the ring body. The other half of the ring depth is taken up by the recessed O-ring. You need twice the number of exposed threads on the die body, as opposed to other lock rings, to be able to use the Lee rings.

This shouldn't be taken as a condemnation of Lee products...I own serveral...or even of their lock ring design. I use Lee lock rings on their Universal Decapping die and my Hornady Powder Cop die...because their adjustment isn't critical
 
That's true, although many other rings are similarly thick. IME, the Lee die bodies are thicker above the threads.... you can't screw the rings off the top of the dies. So the "need (for) twice the number of exposed threads on the die body" isn't really the relevant factor - just the thickness. I can't use the Hornday lock rings with Lee dies on my Dillon press, either.
 
Lee die bodies are thicker above the threads...I can't use the Hornday lock rings with Lee dies on my Dillon press, either.
Interesting. I thought Dillon addressed that when they went with the larger frame of the 650
Is it a function of the die bodies or the rings?

Some of my shooting buddies load on the Dillon 650, but they are using Dillon dies and rings.

I'm using a Hornady LNL AP and have always preferred the Hornady lock rings...regardless of die manufacturer... based on how they apply pressure to the die body
 
The die bodies are short. They'll reach from the toolhead down to the shellplate (or other relevant distance), but not with enough to spare to be raised by the full width of a Lee or Hornady ring. With Dillon rings, they work just fine... although you have to crank those thin Dillon rings down past finger tight to keep them from working loose. Never had to use a wrench/socket with my LCT, but it's necessary with the 650/Dillon Ring/Lee die combo. Not a big enough deal to make me pay $100 or whatever for another set of dies, though, especially when the Lees have given me so many years of good service.
 
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